Thinking of upgrading the scope on my 300H&H for an up an coming Ibex hunt... I've been informed that the shots can be as long as 400yrds or where ever your ethical range is. Plan on taping laminated card to side of stock with my "dope" but should have it all memorized by hunting time.
Having never done this type of hunting don't know how much time one has to "set" up the shot, but seems one should keep it as simple as one can.
Been looking looking at a Night Force 2.5x10x42 which gives me 3 options for reticles.

1. Plain duplex... Keep it simple use a 300yrd zero and you are on hair out to 400yrds. Kentucky windage for wind

2. BDC reticle 200yrd zero do your home work and learn the ranges, which will be a bit off if you practice at sea level and shoot above 10,000". Be able to use BDC for some wind corrections

3. A MOA reticle, again doing ones home work and knowing your "dope" seems more accurate to 1/2 MOA and also use MOA for wind corrections.

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

When I was there I noticed that things had a tenancy to happen fast so I'd say a ballistic reticle all the way. I doubt I'd have got my ibex had I been required to turn turrets and no way with a single duplex. Ranging and shooting was about all I had time for. Shot was 579 yards.

I have to correct my 2nd option I meant to say a TDS reticle

Sheephunterab
What scope and reticle were you using??

Keep in mind that the BDC, or whatever name the company calls it, reticles will not line up perfectly at even yardages. You probably already know this, but it is sometimes a surprise to some folks. Most scopes are second focal plane, so the reticle subtensions are only accurate at max power.

You will have to adjust the scope magnification to find the power that lines the reticle up closest to even yardages (300, 400, 500, etc). Otherwise, you will have the 3 line in the reticle accurate at 362 yards as an example. I find that difficult to use if I need to split the difference between lines. My mind works better with increments of 50.

There are several online tools to help set you up. Zeiss has a good one, and also use one of the best BDC reticle designs, IMO.

Nightforce also has one for their velocity reticles.

Swarovski for the BRX and BRH reticles.

My choice is a mil dot, or MOA reticle with a turret for when I can take the time. I like the BDC reticles, but they aren't in the scopes I like.

Jeremy

I use my own waterproof turret wraps with the distance in metres as I range in metres. I use a S&B PM2 and takes less than a second to dial in.

quote:

Originally posted by Zephyr:
Sheephunterab
What scope and reticle were you using??

I used a Zeiss Conquest 4.5-14x44 with Rapid Z 800.Once I got there I rezeroed at elevation and as I'd already ran the numbers through the computer, I knew what magnification I needed to use for that elevation. It was a simple matter of firing one shot at 500 yards to confirm. Here's what the computer produced for me. I like this system because it's simple and there is nothing to remember other than 5=500, 6=600, 7=700 and so on. If I change loads or elevations, it's a simple matter of a magnification tweak to readjust.

I use swarovski Z3 with BRH reticle. Just happens to line up perfectly for my .300 wsm.

200 yard zero, then 300, 400, 500.

It has worked great for me. 3 ibex at ranges from 150 to 450. I don't like the idea of dialing while hunting.

I agree you should keep it in the scope..
Trying to decide between TDS reticle and a MOA reticle.
Your yardage will change on a TDS reticle as you go from sea level to altitude on a hunt for Ibex as sheephunterab shows us most scope manufactures using a TDS type reticle will have a calculator on their web site to give you the info you need The thing I like about a reticle like sheephunterab is that it gives you some windage guide lines for full value winds at distance.