http://www.jawina.de/auf-markh...n-der-trophaeenjagd/


Great photos and story of a Markhor hunt in Tajikistan.

Thanks for sharing! Great article.

Is there an English translation of this article somewhere?

ON MARKHOR IN TAJIKISTAN: FROM THE BLESSING OF THE TROPHY HUNT

Or: Why it can be a good and beneficial thing to even sacrifice exotic red list species for their trophy.

At half past five in the morning, the gnarled branches and pieces of wood in the stove, welded together from a few sheets and angles, have long burned down. It is quite fresh in the room of the shelter, shivering I put on jacket and shoes. Outside, the peaks of the Pamir Mountains, barren, rugged, more intimidating and threatening than just beautiful, stand out against the starry sky. In the valley, just a stone's throw away, rushes the Pjandsch, the border river to Afghanistan. Jürgen is already waiting, the long barrel of the 8x68S sticking out over his back. Tires crunch, beams of light dance, the vehicle that will bring us into the hunting area torments the steep gravel road. After about half an hour's drive on the Pamir Highway we are there.



Jürgens Markhor. Photo: SE

Because that's why we're here: Eight licenses for Bukhara goats (Bukhara or Bukhara-Markhor, Capra falconeri heptneri, the kh is pronounced like the ch laugh) were auctioned off in 2017 worldwide. One of the exclusive and therefore highly sought after trophy hunters licenses went for 150,000 US dollars to the German hunter Juergen S., which we may accompany during his hunting trip to the Pamir. Jürgen is here for the second time, in the protected area M-Sayod in the Autonomous Oblast Gorno Badakhshan (GBAO), On his first visit here in eastern Tajikistan, he participated in the scientific monitoring of the Bukhara Markhor: "I wanted to see if you could shoot a markhor with a clear conscience," explains Jürgen. Result: you can. He saw numerous individuals and herds, an impression that is confirmed in the current visit.


During the test shot, a young Markhor carefully peeks over the ridge. Photos: SE


Result of the test fire at 300 meters, which was carried out on the first day on the site of a military post.

The fact that you can "shoot a markhor in good conscience" in Tajikistan is a huge conservation success, almost a small miracle. At the beginning of the 1990s, there were only just under 700 specimens worldwide, with only a few of the local populations in the fragmented distribution area having less than 20 remaining. The international nature conservation organization IUCN classified the Bukhara markhor as endangered , the species was in acute danger of extinction. And the markhor would have been extinct if native hunters and tribal leaders had not counteracted.


View from our quarters to the Pjandsch. Right of the river is Afghanistan. Photo: SE

Main problem of the Bukhara Markhor was the uncontrolled meat hunt, one could say poaching. For many of the poor villagers, this was the only way to help their family have a meat meal. Incidentally, hunting in Tajikistan was completely prohibited except for the strictly regulated launching of problem predators. But the strictest prohibitions, protective laws and punishments do not help - people can not ban survival.


Pamir Highway. Photo: SE

Following the example of a very successful project to rescue the Suleiman goat (Capra falconeri jerdoni, see also here ) in Pakistan, the Tajiks developed a conservation concept: the traditional hunters and poachers should stop the hunt and in return be hired as hunting guides and rangers they can feed their families. A 560,000 hectare nature reserve has been established, divided into community-based conservation areas under largely autonomous local self-government.

The ascent begins


On crumbling paths in the Pamir. Photo: SE

As our eyes get used to the darkness, the ascent begins. The climbing is, although we are not really high altitude, not without. There are no paths, the crumbling rock is deceptive, walking on the boulders strives for the inexperienced. The Tajik guides quickly and safely assess the mountaineering qualities of their hunting guests. They are unobtrusive, but immediately on hand when someone needs help.


Markhor morning dinam in the Pamir. Photo: SE

The difficulty level of this mountain hunt depends on the one hand on the wishes and ideas of the hunting guest (and its fitness), but also on the game: In Dushanbe we met two American hunters, Frank and Ron, who hunted ibexes in M-Sayod: That's it At different altitudes than the Markhor hunt, this is a real challenge: you camp for days in the high mountains in primitive hideouts of the shepherds and are in the most difficult terrain without interruption to climbing and stalking.


With pack donkeys in the high mountains: A few impressions of the Capricorn hunt by Frank and Ron in Tajikistan. Photo: Sadi Alidodov. Sadi accompanies hunting trips as a photographer for a fee. His contact details are: Sadi Alidodov, Ishkashim District, BGAO, Tajikistan, email: sadi.alidodov@gmail.com, tel: +992939009098


Accommodation on the ibex hunt. Photo: Sadi Alidodov.


"The hardest thing I've ever done!" Frank next to a rock with rock drawings of ibex in the Pamir. Photo: Sadi Alidodov.


Frank hauls himself up the mountain. Photo: Sadi Alidodov.

Frank, who has been hunting all over the world, said, "It was the hardest thing I ever did." This video gives a good impression of the challenges of mountain hunting in Tajikistan:



After strenuous climb we reach a small rocky plateau, where we can, well covered behind huge boulders, peek into the opposite wall, in which we have seen the Markhor the night before. The larger part of the group huddles in the wind and sight protection of a rock, only the spotters alternate, fully exposed to the icy wind, at the spotting scope. Slowly dawn sets in. There, excited whispering from the spotting scope: The markhor descends, exactly on the change he was expected to receive. Jürgen crawls on all fours, puts the 8 × 68 S in position.


Lunar landscape: View from our Ansitzort into the valley. Photo: SE


Grandiose, inhospitable landscape. Photo: SE


Jürgen climbs. Photo: SE


Barren vegetation. Photo: SE

But today Jürgen is not happy with the hunting luck: The Markhor does not follow the change into the valley, but turns far out of reach of the 8x68S into a stone gully, where he disappears from our sight. That's how hunting is.

A tragedy in front of our eyes

But I will often think back to this unsuccessful hunting day because of the drama that we witnessed on the descent. On the other side of the river, in Afghanistan, we saw a narrow path that stretched about halfway up a gravel slope.


A narrow path winds up the slope. Photo: SE

Partly showered by debris, the path seemed to end where the boulder field merges into a rock formation.


The path seems to end at the rocks. Photo: SE

But this impression is misleading: if you look closely, you will discover how the path winds up breathtakingly steeply up to the crest of the ridge. Then we discovered the little caravan on the path:


Some carrier animals and their companions fight their way up the scree track. Photo: SE

A train of mules laden with antediluvian pack saddles and empty sacks tormented the steep path, accompanied by three fragile-looking human figures. "These are children," explains Khalil Karimov, a scientist who accompanied us on this day as an interpreter. "These are usually eleven to thirteen at the most." They move to the plateau, up where the path leads. On the plateau are cereal fields, the grain is threshed there prehistorically with cattle and must now be transported to the village.



Beasts of prey and shepherds turn into the impassable, almost vertical passage and fight their way forward step by step.


The small caravan in the steep passage. Photo: SE

Then it happens: One of the pack animals crashes and crashes in bizarre silence below in the rock. One of the children climbs after, at least to save the pack saddle, which is very valuable for these people, so Khalil.

What impresses you most on this trip is exactly this: The view of the other side of the Pjandsch. You drive along the Pamir Highway and discover a strange formation on the Afghan side, at first glance a few strikingly arranged rock piles.


Strange rock formation? Photo: SE

But take a closer look:


Afghan village. Photo: SE

Then you see: It is an Afghan village - and it is inhabited. A few barren fields, surrounded by stone walls. There are cattle, there is firewood piled up, now and then you discover people or even cars:


Rare sight here: cars. Photo: SE

If you drive past at eight in the evening, coming from the hunting, it is pitch black, nowhere a light and despite the cutting cold, nowhere rises smoke, probably the precious fuel is reserved even for icy temperatures.


A marked, but not yet cleared minefield in Afghanistan. Photo: SE

"They are 400 years back," estimates Khalil. "At least. Life as in the Middle Ages. "Looking at the other side of the river also provides a glimpse of what Tajikistan would look like without the Markhor protection program: in the meantime, there is not a single markhor on the Afghan side. "Sometimes a markhor changes from us to the other side," reports Khalil, "then he is dead immediately. They shoot at everything that moves. On the one hand we regret that, on the other hand we are happy because they are so poor and then at least have something to eat. "


Sunrise in the Pamir. Photo: SE

In 2004, the Tajik Markhor protection project was launched with the support of the GIZ , and since then the market has multiplied. According to the protection organization H & CAT, 1901 units were identified by experts of the Tajik Academy of Sciences in 2017, including a healthy percentage of mature male animals . In 2014, a license to shoot a Bukhara markhor was auctioned for the first time, meanwhile there are an average of seven per year, the IUCN now classifies the markhor as "near-threatened" and no longer as "endangered".


The IUCN hazard levels. Source: http://s3.amazonaws.com/iucnre...ist_cats_crit_en.pdf

How many copies of the Bukhara marker can be shot depends not only on the stock of Markhor and its composition, but also on the existence of the Snow Lion, which relies on the Markhor as prey. The Snow Lion also benefits from the lucrative trophy hunt on the Markhor, the funds earned also benefit its protection and the preservation of its habitats.

But above all, the "socio-economic benefit" of trophy hunting can be seen and understood in literally every village in the Conservancies: you can see the black plastic tubes that lead fresh water from the clear mountain streams into the villages,


For our concepts primitive, but better than without. Through drinking trophy hunting built drinking water supply. Photo: SE

We drove through a newly-built village that had been rebuilt to replace an avalanche-spilled village, largely from funds that had swept the trophy hunt into the country.


The neatest village in a wide radius ...


... built with hunter money. Photos: SE


Happy - and well-educated - children thanks to trophy hunting. Photo: SE

A brand new spotless school was in the village, a new community center also used as a school in another village.


New parish house in the village Zighar. Photo: SE

Not to forget the people who, as rangers, hunting guides, taxidermy divers, find a living.


Ranger (in the door) in front of his shelter. Photo: SE


On a chai at the ranger. Photo: SE

In addition, the Hunting and Conservation Alliance of Tajikistan (H & CAT) / Tajwildlife contributes to the training of teachers, provides educational materials, supports students and invests in on-site medical care. They buy coal for the village population in winter, from the trophy hunt profit various local businesses, from small shops to restaurants. Even a hotel is under construction.


Shell of a hotel on the Pjandsch. Photo: SE

Even if it can not be fully understood how the money is distributed (one part struck the state government, another the district government, at least 60 percent should benefit the local communities and the conservation of nature and species, more about this here ): Who wants seriously say something against it, if for all these benefits a few old, male animals, which do not play a large role for the preservation of the species and in any case the next severe winter anyway would mend, are killed by a hunter?


Two (much too young) screw goats. Photo: SE

That brings us back to the topic. Jürgen has not stretched a markhor, is already from a renewed stay the speech, if this time no success is granted. The conditions are difficult this year: Hardly any snow, so the Markhor herds do not pull as far down the valley as usual - and they are, perfectly camouflaged by their gray-brown fur, very difficult to identify in the equally colored rock.

So for us, not for the Tajiks. It is frustrating: We drive with the pick-up through the area, one of the truckers driving on the truck knocking on the roof. He points somewhere in the rock face: There, Markhor. The Tajiks nod and look and discuss whether a mature Markhor is there, while we get the animals that they spied with bare eyes, only with difficulty and guidance in the glass: "Do you see the big triangular rock there? From there, a grass band goes to the left to a boulder field and directly above them. "I do not see them. Jürgen also not. To despair. It has something to do with exercise, because after a few days here it feels better. But probably also with the superior eyesight of these not civilizational angekränkelten mountain dwellers.


Da: Tajiks see with their naked eyes what our spotting scope needs. Photo: SE

Khalil, who is currently completing a second degree in Wildlife Biology in Vienna, tells a revealing story. In Vienna he suddenly realized that something was wrong with his eyes and went to the ophthalmologist. He gave him a blackboard, line after line of numbers and letters, and asked him to read what he saw. And Khalil read ahead. Everything. "The doctor unpacked his blackboard and made it clear to me that I should not steal his precious time," grins Khalil. "You have the best visual acuity that I have experienced in 40 years of practice as an ophthalmologist. Everything is fine with her eyes. "By the way, it was not - Khalil had conjunctivitis, as it turned out later.


"Do not chew long, head back" is also suitable for Markhor hunting. Photo: SE


Tajikistan is a Muslim country: our driver ...


... uses a break for a roadside prayer. Photos: SE


Davlatkhon Mulloerov, a ranger from H & CAT and highly experienced hunter knows perfect camouflage: https://tajwildlife.com/team/davlatkhon-mulloerov/

Finally there is the opportunity to get a good markhor. It's a long shot:


Recorded approximately from the shooting position: On the rocky ridge between the two small forest islands (arrow), the markhor changed over. Photo: SE

On the shot I see through the viewfinder of the camera a quick movement up in the rock. Like the chamois, the Tajik guides scurry up the rocks. It's getting dark soon, they want to be sure as soon as possible. They come back. Without Markhor. But they have found sweat. Tomorrow they want to search.

For Jürgen follows a sleepless night and a torturously long morning, filled with all the torments of waiting. Then the redeeming message. They have found his markhor. He lay a few hundred yards from the launch in extremely inaccessible terrain in the wound bed. In the rush when shooting at the Markhor was no time to measure the distance, the guides had said it is 350 meters, Jürgen had set the Absehenschnellverstellung the target fern accordingly. The next day we measure: There are almost 400 meters. At this distance, the bullet of the 8x68S falls off pretty well, so that the high-powered shot was much lower. "Everything is fine, I have my markhor!" Jürgen shines.


Jürgen and his markhor, after the German hunters with the last bite. Photo: SE

I asked Khalil on the first day, "What are you doing with the meat, big barbecue party?" "No," the scientist had replied in disgust: "You can not eat that. Old Markhor tastes like piss. We leave it out there for the wolves and snow leopards. "Well - theory and practice fall apart here:


The markhor is broken up and disassembled, the fire on the grill for the Markhor shish kebab is already burning. Photo: SE

After the markhor has been skinned carefully for the desired preparation, the Tajiks begin to split the meat. The question of what they do with it, is answered differently here: "We eat, it is all used." The hunter rubs his stomach: "Tasty Markhor shish kebab!"


Markhor shashlik from the grill. Photo: SE


Also for the dogs falls off abundantly ...


The Tajiks cut off the guard dogs' ears - because of the wolves, they say: "If the wolf first has the dog by the ears, he is lost!" Photos: SE


$ 150,000 chewing bones - this puppy may still face the painful procedure. Photo: SE


Good work. The taxidermists understand their craft. Photo: SE


The ceilings are salted. Photo: SE


Do something different: The Tajiks do not divide the game body as we are used to, but in front and back part. So the meat is also offered on the wholesale market in the capital Dushanbe. Photo: SE


Shashlik will be ready soon. Photo: SE


Of course I've tried it: It tastes (fortunately) not as predicted by Khalil, not even goat. It is very strong roasted and, presumably because no meat maturation has taken place and the piece was also very old, rather hard and tough. But quite edible. Photo: SE


Bones and fur worth a Ferrari - Markhor hunting is a rather exclusive affair ... Photo: SE

After a hearty Markhor barbecue, we decided to leave for Dushanbe the next day. The desire to swap the washings with ice-cold mountain stream water for a hot shower at the hotel is great ...

Maybe a few more sentences about the hunt in Tajikistan and the security situation: Markhor Hunt is certainly not for everyone because of the lavish royalties. However, there are many more attractive and demanding hunting opportunities in Tajikistan: Wild boars, Argali and the particularly exhausting hunt for the ibex - which is comparatively cheap with royalties of about 5000 dollars. The booking for this trip was made by the company FairHunt Kurt Hofer . The grandiose landscape, the challenge to hunt in the high mountains and last but not least the warmth and hospitality of the Tajiks will ensure that the journey becomes an unforgettable experience and a lasting memory.

The IUCN writes that because of its remoteness, logistical problems and lack of security, the border with Afghanistan remains difficult to control. Cross-border poaching impairs the security situation for game wardens, researchers, tourists and legal foreigners (because of remoteness, logistical hurdles and lacquer of security, international border in this area remains difficult to control , tourists, and legal foreign hunters).

The Foreign Office writes in the "country-specific safety instructions" to Tajikistan :

"Due to increased and likely ongoing fighting in the Faizabad metropolitan area (Afghan province of Badakhshan), it is not recommended until further notice to travel to the Tajik border district of Ishkashim (Gorno Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast)." (Almost exactly there in the Autonomous Oblast we were.)

"In addition, there may occasionally be shootings between Afghan drug smugglers and members of the Tajik border troops and the drug control authority on the border with Afghanistan.

Rides near the border with Afghanistan should only be carried out after prior information on the current security situation and with the utmost care. It strongly warns against illegally crossing the insufficiently demarcated and sometimes unsecured Afghan-Tajik border, for example, to create photos for social networks on Afghan territory [...].

Traveling in the Gorno Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast (GBAO) / Mountain tourism in the Pamir Mountains:
The need for travel in the Gorno Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast (GBAO) is a good thing; Travel is good to plan. In the event of an accident or other emergency, due to the poor infrastructure and the not nationwide secured medical care help - also consular nature - often not promptly or not according to international standards. Many mountain routes are not or only slowly passable by car, access is also possible for foreign diplomats only with multi-day lead time.

There are many challenges in the Pamir Mountains. With sudden weather swings, earthquakes, landslides and minus temperatures even in summer is expected. Mobile devices have in part only very limited reception (that's right! ), Therefore, the use of satellite phones is recommended. Travel should only be done with local, local guides.

In the event of an evacuation or even air rescue, rescue aircraft from Germany / Europe can not fly to the airfields in Khorog and Murghab, so that a domestic flight (usually with non-medically equipped aircraft) from GBAO to the capital Dushanbe may be required. The cost of such flights can exceed 20,000 euros and are not always covered by travel health insurance. Travelers are strongly advised to clarify the question of coverage and modalities for such a Tajik-domestic air rescue with the insurance before departure. "

I can only counter that, that we have felt completely well and safe the whole time. Neither the house nor the room doors were lockable:


Neither castle, nor bars: front door of our accommodation. Photo: SE

Of course that is only a subjective impression. SE

Beitragsbild: Jürgen with Tajik helpers and guides and his markhor. Photo: SE

JAWINA thanks Jürgen S. and H & CAT / Tajwildlife.com for allowing us to participate in this trip.

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This entry was posted on April 2, 2018Posted by admin in News , Travel . Keywords: species protection , Bukhara Markhor , Bukhara Markhor , Bukhara markhor , Capra falconeri heptneri , H CAT , Markhor , Pamir , Red List , conservation through use , Tajikistan , trophy hunting .

Great read! Thanks for posting.