Ladies and Gentlemen:

My experience in waterfowl hunting is almost nil, but I want to change that this year.

I am an old shotgun fan (just got rid of my 686 Onyx Beretta 3.5"), and would like to get a 12 gauge Browning A5 to hunt ducks and geese. I will be buying an older Belgium made one.

1. What choke would you recommend for ducks and geese?

2. What shot can I use that will not ruin the barrel?

3. Do I need 3" capability, or is 2 3/4" enough?

4. Do I need two A5's with different chokes, one for geese and one for ducks?

{I posted this in shotgunning, too.}

Sincerely,

Chris Bemis

The answer to your choke choice is obvious, it depends......Are you shooting decoying ducks in timber, pass shooting over big water, decoying geese in fields where they are feeding, pass shooting them as they come off a river, etc. In short, you need at least 3 chokes, IC, Mod, and Full. I also like IM and XF. One choke? I'd probably very reluctantly choose M, depending on what your majority of shooting situations are, and vary the types of shot I used.

If you go with an older A5 I'd get the Magnum model and find a newer barrel with choke tubes for it. Certainly you don't have to have 3 inch shells for all waterfowling but you really need the option for some situations.

I'm not certain if the newer Jap barrels will handle steel shot or not, but believe they will. Another reason to get one.

Otherwise, if you insist on using an older gun and an older barrel you'll have to use the softer loads like Bismuth, etc.

Browning FAQ:

Q: Can I shoot steel shot in my Browning shotgun?

A: All current Browning shotguns with the Invector or Invector-Plus choke tube system are fully steel shot compatible with current factory loads. However, there are limitations to the compatibility of many older Browning shotguns with conventionally choked barrels. In certain models, shooting steel shot may cause a slight "ringe bulge" just inches behind the muzzle. The damage to your gun is purely cosmetic, but the "bulge" can be a factor in resale, especially with collector-grade shotguns.


Accordingly, our recommendations concerning the use of steel shot in Browning shotguns is as follows:


1. WILL ACCEPT ALL CURRENT FACTORY STEEL SHOT LOADS: All Browning shotguns with the Invector choke or Invector-Plus tube systems, However, we do not recommend the use of Invector full or extra full chokes with steel shot. They pattern too tightly, and sometimes result in a "blown" pattern.

2. WILL ACCEPT ALL CURRENT FACTORY STEEL SHOT LOADS EXCEPT THOSE WITH T, F, BB AND BBB SIZE SHOT: The B-2000 and B-80 shotguns with conventional chokes (Non-Invector)

3. DO NO USE ANY STEEL SHOT LOADS: The Belgian-made A-5, Superposed, Leige, and other Belgian Over/Under models, Double Automatic, American-made A-5 and all other models not listed in category 1 or 2. Note: Belgian Auto-5 barrels are interchangeable with the new Invector barrels which are made in Japan. With this new Invector barrel installed on the Belgian-made Auto-5 receiver, steel shot loads can be used.


DAMAGE: In not all, but a number of instances a very slight ring will develop about 1 1/2" to 3" rearward of the muzzle. This ring is about .005 of an inch above the plane of the barrel, completely encircling the barrel. From our tests we could determine no adverse effect on pattern or shot velocity because of this ring. Our conclusion is that the most significant objection, the slight ring, is entirely cosmetic. This "ring" effect does not affect the function or safety of the firearm.


YEAR OF PRODUCTION: Nearly all Browning firearms manufactured after 1975 have two letters in the serial number. The two letters indicate the year of manufacture: M=0, Z=1, Y=2, X=3, W=4, V=5, T=6, R=7, P=8, N=9.


If I was to do it I'd get the A-5 Magnum (3" gives goose hunting flexibility) and get a Jap A-5 Barrel with Invector Chokes (should be about $350) Use an IC for shooting Decoying Ducks and a M or IM for Pass shots at ducks & geese. Or just get a Briley LM (light modified) and use it for everything (this is what I do).

Remember that with hard shot and modern wads shotguns tend to pattern about 2 chokes tighter than there "traditional" listing. I.E. a modified would pattern somewhere close to a traditional full using modern steel shot.

Dear Andrew M:

Thank you. Pure genius.

A Belgium Magnum with the Japanese invector barrel. It will be done.

Sincerely,

Chris Bemis

Even though all my A-5's are belgium (I have seven of them) there is nothing wrong with a Japan model. The way prices are going now it might be cheaper to by a Jap just to get the invector plus barrel. Some barrels are going for almost 5 hundred.
The hottest gun going right now is the A-5 Stalker. Yesterday there was one high bid of $1920.00 on gunbroker. Be very careful of the Stalker models. I was talking to Midwest Gunworks last week and they said they redo a lot of Jap Magnums to look like the Stalkers and they think there being sold as originals.
A regular Magnum can be had for 500-600 hundred. A Stalker will push two grand for the right buyer.
If you want to learn more than you'll ever need to know about A-5's go to Shotgunworld.com. Go to the "I love my browning" section. Tons of information and some really good guys.
The only problem is you won't be able to stop with just one.

I just saw that the Stalker went for $2225.00.
That's crazy. They went for about 800.00 new fifteen years ago.
There's some big time arguments going on between the A-5 guys and the Benelli guys on duckhunter.net right now. Some people get a little carried away now that the season is over.

I am a A5 shooter for eons now and love them!I know this isnt classifieds,but I do have exactly what you need 12ga BELGIUM 3"MAG with 28"VR MODified (full w/steel shot)Jap Barrel..ALSO,it has the Stalker type Black Synthetic Stock and Forearm!...Best part,it is MINT and $825 shipped! These do shoot 2 3/4" Mags too....PM me if your interested.It is not on the market,but am selling some I dont use....

Dear Andrew M:

Bought the Japanese A5 Magnum barrel today, 32" full choke. I'll use hevi-shot steel in it for pass shooting.

Now, just have to find an IC barrel for close in ducks.

Thank you again for you idea.

Sincerely,

Chris Bemis

Outstanding

My only advice with hevi-shot & a full barrell is to go no larger than #4's.

All this A-5 talk got my juices flowing. I decided to trade one of my Citori's (a late 70's Jap model choked full/mod) today for a Belgium Light 20 plus ordered a Jap 26" invector barrell to go with. Should be fun for early teal.

Dear Andrew M:

Now I'm going to get your A-5 addiction flowing even more. I just scored a "new in the grease" A5 magnum 28" invector barrel with all three tubes. It made my recent 32" full choke magnum barrel superluous.

Do you know someone who might want a Japanese A5 magnum full choke 32" barrel?

Sincerely,

Chris Bemis

Todays special on the 32"?

Chris,

Marry that bbl up with ur magnum 12 and you are good to go. Save the the 32" bbl since it was w/ the gun and the extra bbl WILL give you resale value.

Next thing you need to do is go to the Briley website & get you a extended Skeet choke for early teal, a light modified for regular duck season, and an Improved modified for geese and pass shots (they'll compliment the I,M,&F chokes you have with the bbl purchase).

Then take your whole rig out & PATTERN it at 35 yards @ some butcher paper with various loads & chokes. That will give you confidence and let you know what your shooting.

Cheer to you for doing it right

Dear Andrew M:

Actually the 32" is a second Japanese barrel I just purchased. I am keeping the Belgian 32" for turkey, etc.

Again, if you know someone who wants a Japanese full choke 32" magnum barrel, please give me a PM.

Sincerely,

Chris Bemis

Dear Andrew M:

After perusing my Brownells catalog, I saw two types of extended Briley choke tubes. One, the X-2 without ports and the other, Spectrum Mach 1 with ports.

Which one of these options do you suggest in skeet and improved modified?

The interesting thing about all of this choke business resides in my old Savage 444 O/U 12 gauge with 26 barrels. It is marked IC and Mod., but after miking it this week, it is actually Light Modified and Improved Modified according to the Browning published fixed choke internal diameter chart.

The funny thing is after shooting that shotgun for over 30 years, it always felt like a tighter pattern, particularly for dove shooting, than what was marked on the barrels.

It knocked the hell out of pheasants here in Pennsylvania when there were pheasants. I used to kill them up close with 7 1/2 AA trap loads in the IC barrel. If they broke farther away after running, I hit them with a high brass #6 from the Mod. barrel with the same result.

I never saw the need for 4's or 5's.

Sincerely,

Chris Bemis

Guessing from the way you're gathering gear without having fired a shot at a duck or goose......it's going to be a looooong 7 months until opening day.

And why didn't you just buy the best duck gun out there.....that being an SBE II?(others may argue the Extrema 2 is better)

Can anyone here explain to me the need for a 32" barrel in this day and age? Almost every duck hunter I know owns a 26" bbl and I'd say I know 30 or 40.

I'm assuming also that you don't plan on setting decoys with all of this talk about pass shooting??????

Just having a little fun with you....but my questions remain.

Dear Norton:

All of your questions/observations are valid.

I bought two older (1970 and 1971 manufacture) Auto 5 Brownings, Belgium make after looking at, shouldering and experimenting with about 15 different shotguns over the past 15 years. Specifically for waterfowl, I've owned a 3" Super X, 3.5" BPS and a 3.5" 686 Beretta O/U (last one on the block now). The Benelli's just don't feel right to me.

To place this in context, the last time I was going to get into the waterfowl thing was 10 years ago. Events superseded my desire then, but not now.

The bottom line is the older shotguns fit me better, and I like them better. The hump backs feel right, and they remind me of my first pheasant hunting in 1975.

I've hunted most of my life with a 1960's 26" O/U Savage which fits like a glove.

The first shotgun I ever hunted with was a borrowed Sweet 16 Auto 5. I hadn't shouldered a Belgian Auto 5 in over 30 years. I shouldered a few older ones, and now I own two.

My latest barrel is a 28" invector I picked up yesterday for the A5 Magnum.

I am looking for another 26-28" (possibly invector) for the A5 Light 12 tomorrow.

The original 31.5" 3" fixed full (tight) choke and 27.5" 2 3/4" fixed modified (tight) choke Belgium barrels I will use for turkey and doves.

Shotguns should be done this week, and next week I'll learn about decoys and such.

Yes, I want to try it all out, decoys, pass shooting and whatever else.

I'm tired of hunting for the non-existent pheasant in Pennsylvania.

Sincerely,

Chris Bemis

Norton,

Can't answer for Chris, but here is my reply. I have a SBE II (and an SBE I too for that matter) and they are my meat guns. It is dipped (We hunt salt bays a lot and the camo dipping really helps). That said there is just something about pulling out the A-5 or model 12 on a gentleman's hunt and going retro. The A-5's have been killing stuff for over 100 years. In about 80 years I guess my great grand kids will be pulling out the Benelli's to go retro . I don't like the Berettas as they are too heavy. In my group of hunting peers the benellis mark you as a well to do tyro and the brownings as more of a gentleman. I still have the tyro mark

Yeah, a 32 is a little long for my tastes. I have 26" & 28" on all my guns. But it's all what you are used to. They certainly don't hurt anything except maybe being a little harder to get out of the blind.

Pass shooting has its place. It is not a prefered method over feet down in the dekes 20 yards out but where I hunt it is about the only way to get geese or cranes when you're duck hunting. I've also killed a many a skittish pintail on the bays at 40+ when they wouldn't commit.

Chris,

You can go right to Brileys website & look at them. I use just the plain black oxide extended tubes. But they have all kinds.

http://www.briley.com/index.as...=VIEWPROD&ProdID=113

You really don't have to have them. Your improved and mod in your set should cover you but I use them and it gives me the ability to fine tune a litttle (at least in my mind)

I'll let you know if anyone I know needs that barrel but most folks I know have them alreay as take offs. You may try listing it in the classifieds here or on a place like gunbroker or gunsamerica.

Dear Andrew M:

Thanks for the link.

Sincerely,

Chris Bemis