I'm new to muzzleloading pretty much. I've been using a Knight inline disc, three pellets of triple seven, and sabot pistol bullets.

Due to a change in jobs I had to switch to open ignition & loose powder.

So how do you develope loads? I have reloaded metallic for years but just followed recommended loads for the muzzleloader. When can you add a bit more? How do you know when you are bulding to much pressure. Can these be blown up? Can you load above the powder manufactures recommended loads?

do to a change in jobs you had to change rifles, and powder? that makes absolutly no sence....

always follow manufactures instructions do not go over the manufactures req limit for any rifle/shotgun for loads.

generaly say with a 50 caliber "round ball gun"
start with 70-80 grains of ffg up to a max of 120 grains or fffg powder remeber fffg is faster buring and you use less of it also fffg sould be limited to a max of 54 caliber bigger bores generaly shoot ffg powder much better.
when using fffg reduce loads by 20%min ei 100gr of ffg=80 grains of fffg.

if you have any more questions feel free to ask some of us here have been using muzzel loader for years my self included i got into them close to 12 years ago and still going strong

80 to 120 grains of FFg is recommended in most places guys look for 50 cal. information. If you are using a percussion side lock like a Hawken rifle you are getting close to max when your hammer goes to half cock upon firing. Another thing that can happen is groups will start opening up. I've never had a reason to go past 120. My current velocity and accuracy load on my Hawken is 110 grains of American Pioneer FFg and 300 grain Hornady XTP in a Harvester sabot.

when one moves from a state that allows pellets (lets say arkansas) to a state that doesn't allow pellets (lets say colorado) one must change things. some states require loose powder, don't allow scopes, don't allow sabots - you get the picture.

as far as developing loads, folks usually use ffg (if shooting black powder) or one of the loose substitutes. so, grab the powder of your choice. select bullets that meet your states requirements. if your new state doesn't allow sabots, buy some powerbelts (if allowed) or get some maxi-ball type bullets. i'd say start around 80 grains (for 50 cal) and work your way up in load weight until you get the groups you want. ymmv.

Thanks for the replies.

LBGuy hit it on the head. I moved from a state allowing pelletized powder & closed ignition.

I bought the Triple7 loose powder, and 348gr powerbelts as they had no lighter weight. I found the max recommended with that weight was 100gr.

What had me thinking about it is the Knight with three pellets and 300gr sabots shot fine and was what the original owner had been using. I dropped to 250's and kept using the three pellets.

It's my understanding that three pellets would be the equivelent of 150gr's of FFg. So having experience with reloading rifles I wondered if you could approach the muzzleloader with the same process.

If you can without risk, it seems you should be able to gradually increase the powder charge to find either an accurate max or acceptably accurate max. WHEN do you stop increasing the charge? I have found with metallic rifle you sometimes find pressure signs short of recommended max loads, and at other times you can go over max by enough to gain some real velocity advantage. Does this hold true with black powder? What if any high pressure signs are there?

I'm working with a new TC Northwest Explorer now but will try to retrofit my Knight disc if possible.

In Idaho you must use percussion caps, loose powder, and cannot use sabots.

I hope you can understand what I'm asking in spite of my poor writing/typing skills.

First off your rifle MFG has a max load, probably stamped on the barrel at 150gr.

Going to loose from pellets isn't so hard. You need a volume powder measure and a powder I believe you said T7. Choose a bullet, a nice conical for Idaho works. Start with a 50cal. at about 75 to 80Gr. Shoot wiping between shots with a windex patch and a dry one or two then shot it again. When the groups close up you have found what it likes but increase the powder amount by 5 or 10 gr. till the group opens up. Once that happens you will find you have the recipe from some where between the group closeing up and then opening up again.
No need to worry about pressure signs like with a cartridge rifle as long as you stay under or at what the MFG recommends with black powder.
I sent you a PM trying to hook you up with a friend in Idaho.

Al

im sorry if i cam off a bit rude didnt mean to
i understand the question now alot of good info can be had here what has been said thus far is pretty spot on

i shoot round ball alot when it comes to muzzel loaders i have a 10 bore flinter and 8 bore flinter both german jager rifles built by james a gefroh of fort collin co

this man has build many muzzel loaders and has been featured in the now defuct black powder hunting magazine hes still building guns when i last talked to him and he dose em right up to 4 bore 98 caliber left or right handed.

Sent Mike a PM. He replied he would be happy to hear from you and if your were close enought together maybe you could get together aqnd shoot some.

Al