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I have noted that after about 7 shots the accuracy goes wild on me. I spit patch in between shots. Has anyelse noted this? | ||
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I run one spit patch and a couple of dry patches down inbetween each shot w/ the 777 pellets and 250 SSTs in my Knight. The bbls take so long to cool this time of year so, it doesn't bother me to run at least three patches back and forth and then hang it in the rack until it is cool to the touch again. Accuracy stays the same throughout my shooting session. I will say that the crud ring left by this load is a booger to get clean when I break down the rifle for a thourough cleaning after a range session. I have to scrub really hard w/ solvent to get it out. If any of you have tips for removing the crud ring easily, I'm all ears. Reloader | |||
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I haven’t loaded a lot of 777 but I have used a lot of Pyrodex RS. The crud ring you are talking about is it about 2 to 4 inches from the breach plug? I use a spit patch between shots and when I get to the crud ring I pump up and down a little until the patch will go all the way down easy. I have no problem removing any of the powder in any of my Muzzle Loaders while cleaning with hot water and soap. I Squirt some hair shampoo down the bottle then run a brush and rinse with lots of hot water. The only problem with Pyrodex is it stinks and the wife complains every time I clean my gun. I bought my Pyrodex RS after hunting season at $5.00 a pound on clearance the wife will have to put up with the stink for years. I also got 4 lbs of 777 for $9.00 a lb but I don’t want to have to re-sight my rifle for a different powder. Any other powder you can recommend that don’t smoke, stink and is easy to clean up. Not including smokeless I shoot a Thompson Center Encore. Swede --------------------------------------------------------- NRA Life Member | |||
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Reloader, I shoot 2 ea 777 pellets what is your load ? | |||
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I swab between every shot with 777. I use patchs damp with a solution of dish soap and water, then one dry patch to dry things out. Keeps the crud ring from building up too bad. I think the residual dish soap also aids in loading the next tight sabot. I do this in my Omega which is VERY tight with just about anything. | |||
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I guess I have just been fortunate... I took my first White out to the range with a pound of 777, and proceeded to shoot 12 shots before the accuracy deteriorated. I then broke it down and thoroughly cleaned it, using an orange citrus-based cleaner sold for kitchen use. It was spotless, as new, in less than five minutes. Since then I have gone to using 70% isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) and water, bought from a dollar store, in 16-oz containers @ $.75/pint. Two of them poured into a quart-sized plant spray bottle and I am good to go. And I have yet to find this so-called "crud ring"... I can break down the White, clean it, grease the breech plug, re-assemble and be ready to shoot again in less than 10 minutes, and the bore will be as clean as the day I took the rifle out of the box. And fwiw, the citrus-based cleaner I used works extremely well on Pyrodex and black, too.... | |||
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Swede44Mag: If you want a clean powder that does not stink and is easy to clean you are talking about Black Mag'3. It is so clean that in my Omega the barrel has less fouling that I get in my Rolling Block 40-65 shooting smokeless. Black Mag'3 makes some smoke but not the heavy sulfur type and is really mostly steam which looks like smoke. Some of the local cowboy shooters are also in love with this stuff as the pistols are a lot easier to keep clean when they load their cartridges with BM3. This powder shoots way better in my Omega than any of the other synthetic black powders. I get almost as good results with American Pioneer in fffg form. I just bought some Goex Pinnacle fffg but have not shot enough to brag on it yet. As far as the results with the White rifle that is another whole story. White rifles and T/C Omega rifles are not the same. Most Whites can shoot multiple shots without a swab no matter what you load them with. Apparently has something to do with the type and form of rifling and also the depth of the rifling cuts. Omega rifling is very shallow and intended for sabot loads with Pyrodex pellets. | |||
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Rob, I'm using 2 of the 777 pellets as well under the 250 sst. I have it zeroed at 100 and she's dropping about 12" at 200. That is the most accurate load I've tried out of my Knight. I haven't chronoed the load (Worried the sabot will hit the screen). Reloader | |||
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Reloader- I never thought about the sabot possibly hitting the chrono screens. I have chrono'd my 50 Omega quite a bit and never gave it a thought. Never had a sabot hit the chrono though. I place it 10 from the muzzle. The sabots seem to be found about 20 yards out from the muzzle. They must either be still on the bullet or separated but still flying straight (more or less) at 10 feet out through the chrono. My readings were all consistent, no odd readings so I don't think the sabot caused any problems. I have a Competition Electronics Pro-Chrono. BTW- 2 777 50 grain pellets under a 250 SST gives me 1700 fps average at 10 feet from the muzzle. | |||
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I have had a few occasions to look for sabots on the way back from checking (or replacing) targets. They have always been located 20-25 yards from the shooting bench. I suspect they would still be very well in contact with the projectile at the distances chronographs are set up from the muzzle... | |||
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I know several guys that have busted the screens w/ sabots. Consider yourself very lucky. Those Sabots are moving darn fast at short distances. Over on the Savage forum alot of guys use the orb cup (Bottom cup) of a 28 ga. AA wad for sub bases and it's scary what those will do to a chrono. Some guys lean a board (1x4 or 2x4)up against the screen to protect it which can be a pain if you don't have a printer. Some use Plexy Glass. Someone even produces boxes that you can place a chrono inside, they look like a wood box w/ a Plexy glass cover. I believe it was 3/8" plexy but, it may have been 1/4". If you really think about it, it's very easy to break a screen on a chrony just as is a calculator screen. You may never hit it but, I don't like taking the chance. Good Luck! Reloader | |||
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GLC, Have you checked the trajectory of that 2-777 pellet load out at 200? I shot mine the other day and it was around 12" or so low (Zeroed at 100). I figured it would drop more than that. I'm not sure of the BC of the 250SST, I used to have it somewhere but, you know how that goes. | |||
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Yes, about a foot low is what I have experienced also with 2X50 777 and the 250SST at 200 yards. In the near future, I'm going to set a target board out a 150 yards (the absolute max I can shoot in the particular place I hunt) and zero it there. I'll probably do this next week if I get the chance. I'll post the results. I'm interested in how high it will be at 100. I don't want too severe of a trajectory. This will be my first year with an inline. The season is getting close, I'm getting real itchy and excited to go out hunting. I might have to retire my shotguns if it goes well. | |||
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Yeah, these inlines are pretty dang accurate compared to a Shotgun. You sure gotta make that one shot count though. Just makes you more conscious of where that first one (Only One) is going. Heck, you only need one shot anyway. Good Luck Reloader | |||
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In my Rem 700 ML (stainless 24" barrel)I'm using 100 grains of triple 7 FF loose powder, a Hornady "High Velocity" black sabot and a 250 grain TC "Power Tip Mag Express" bullet (bought as seconds).....209 primer.......... When I am shooting groups, I run a damp patch (water) through the barrel between each shot and follow that with a patch soaked with cheap brake cleaner (walmart).....I want the barrel completely clean and dry for each shot.....I am not worried about how it shoots the second or third shot......I want the FIRST shot from a cold dry barrel to hit exactly where I aim....I STAY away from bore butter or anything like it in the barrel......I use Rem oil or regular gun oil for storage and clean it out completely with brake cleaner before shooting...... | |||
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