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I will be moving from two triple seven pellets to three triple seven pellets. I am hoping to gain some distance for longer shots for our swamp loving free range sikas we have here in maryland. I will be shooting TC Mag sabots in 245 gr out of my Encore. Where on paper should my bullets be at 100 yds.(our farthest range an the gunrange)if I am hopeing to be able to shoot out to say 150 yards or maybe to 200 max.. These are tree stand hunts in marsh and swamps, so getting closer is not an option. I appreciate all of your help. Thanks, W. | ||
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One of Us |
Unless you can shoot your gun at those extended ranges to know for sure what your real impact points are I can't recomend you shoot at anything much beyond your sight in distance. ________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | |||
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One of Us |
I agree with Ted...try to find a place you can shoot out to 150-200 yards. These muzzleloaders are a whole different animal after 100 yards, with a Centerfire rifle you can usually go off of ballistics data and "guess" that +1-2" @ 100 yards = dead on 200 yards or more...with a Muzzleloader the drop becomes more and more after 100 and 150. Here is an exerpt I found on the web for you (that I thought was a good write up)...
"Let me start off with two words: Made in America" | |||
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one of us |
I also agree. I have an Omega which will print cloverleaf patterns at 60 yards. When I shoot the same load at 100 it opens up to two to three inches and at 150 I sometimes cannot find the group. Needless to say I do not shoot that load anymore. You cannot predict where a specific bullet and powder combination will shoot and hold patern until you shoot it at the distance that you are intending to shoot. | |||
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Moderator |
Somewhat similar to archery, some muzzle loaders you just need to shoot and find the max range is when the group size opens up to a paper plate. Anyway, like the others I'd suggest seeing what 100 grains will do at longer ranges for you and then decide about whether or not to go up. for every hour in front of the computer you should have 3 hours outside | |||
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Great Info guys. Thanks, W. | |||
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Didn't mean to sound like we were "jumping" you on the topic. So don't take it in a bad way, I am trying to think of another way you could get that practice in. Maybe if you got "scientific" with it, and found out what velocity the bullet was traveling @ when at 100 yards. Then you could download your shot to where at the bench your velocity was the same as what it would be at 100 yards, then you could shoot 50 yards and it would be like shooting at 150 yards. But with the lighter powder charge the accuracy will be different so the only thing you would get out of it is figuring out bullet drop. Just throwing ideas out there! "Let me start off with two words: Made in America" | |||
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I didnt think you were jumping on me at all. It was great advice, and i appreciate it. Thanks, W. | |||
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I will do a test this winter with my ML. It is a Knight Disc Elite .45 I will Chroney 777 in different weights with my bullet/sabot of choice for my rifle...200 grn Horn SST This won't happen until late December though. ________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | |||
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One of Us |
I put a Nikon Omega muzzleloading scope on one of my Knight inlines.. made a believer out of me.. following their directions, I can consistantly hit a paper plate at 250 yds. The three pellet load you are talking about and a SST 250 451 in a fifty cal sabot are what I shoot. I use a rangefinder and tape a chart to the stock to remind me which circle to use. Les | |||
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One of Us |
Wow, great info! I always expected the muzzleloader to behave like a centerfire - I guess I will have to try it @50 and 100 yards and see what I get. My first blackpowder season with a scope can create some interesting sight in sessions. | |||
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