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Seating Sabots
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New to muzzleloading. Been working up loads for my Encore 50 using loose T/7 and pellets. Seating bullets with sabots is a real chore. I really have to push on the rod to get it done; doubt I could get it done in time for a follow up shot.
Here's what I am doing: Clean barrel with patch soaked in water/Simple Green mix. Dry with two patches. Reload.
Powerbelts seat fairly easily. But 245 gr Barnes Expander MX and 300 gr Hornady SST ML's are very hard to push down. Nearly have to stand on the rod to get them down.

What should I change? And advice is appreciated.
 
Posts: 145 | Registered: 18 July 2006Reply With Quote
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Try using MMP HPH 24 sabots. The petals are thinner.
 
Posts: 9 | Location: NE MS | Registered: 03 November 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Try using MMP HPH 24 sabots.


Agreed!!

You can also try harvester sabots or buy TC Shockwave instead of the SST's they come packaged with the MMP HPH 24's.
 
Posts: 130 | Registered: 12 May 2004Reply With Quote
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There are many who post here w/ lots of experience, opinions and ideas. Speaking for myself; I've shot blackpowder for recreation, hunting and competition for over 30yrs. With that said, you probably will never be able to reload fast enough for a quick follow up shot on a deer or bear.

W/out using magic formulas and/or concoctions, what I use as a benchmark for most situations are ballistol and T/C bore butter (cheap and easily found). You can take a small plastic pouch or film cannister w/ dry patching and add enough Ballistol/water mix to dampen the patching. Have a second pouch for dry patching and a third for the T/C lube patching. Keep these in your pocket or close to your body so they do not freeze in sub-zero conditions.

After your shot; run a damp patch the length of the bore to the breech. Ballistol/water easily softens BP fowling and it easily breaks up T7 crud. Jag the barrel w/ a dry patch which removes excessive build up and/or moisture. Run one swipe w/ a T/C patch followed by popping off one 209 primer. This takes very little time and is no more that three full strokes w/ your ramrod. At this point reload and you should have little difficulty in properly seating a bullet/sabot.

As far as seating the bullet/sabot is concerned: if you are using a seating tip that snuggly fits over the end of the bullet you need to ensure that it allows the bullet to spin w/ the rifling while loading. An easy method is to screw the tip fully on the ramrod then just barely back it off. This will allow the bullet/sabot and jag/tip to rotate as you are pushing then down the bore.

When shooting competition w/ percussions and/or flintlocks and patched balls, I'll go 5 to 10 shots then scrape the breech plug to knock out build up and I'll run the above patch combinations through approximately every 10 to 20 shots. When hunting w/ patched balls I prefer to use actual rendered bear grease. I avoid T/C lube patched balls in sub-zero conditions as they can freeze up.

Good Luck,
GVA
 
Posts: 1190 | Registered: 11 April 2004Reply With Quote
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Thanks Gary. That makes a lot of sense. I'll try it.
 
Posts: 145 | Registered: 18 July 2006Reply With Quote
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Used a commercial cleaner and Bore Butter to sight in my Encore. That did the trick. Ordered Ballistol from Midway tonight. Thanks again Gary.
I load 18 different calibers in metalic cartridges. But this ML stuff is like starting from scratch again. Great fun.
 
Posts: 145 | Registered: 18 July 2006Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Cossack2:
New to muzzleloading. Been working up loads for my Encore 50 using loose T/7 and pellets. Seating bullets with sabots is a real chore.
What should I change? And advice is appreciated.


The sabot-- there is no substitute for geometry. You might want to try some MMP 3-Petal EZ sabots; a whole different ballgame for you.
 
Posts: 375 | Location: Plainfield, IL | Registered: 11 March 2003Reply With Quote
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GaryVA gives a very good suggestion, and I agree. By ensuring that the rod tip is free to spin with the rifling twist makes seating much easier. The other day I noticed it took alot more effort to seat Barnes 285 spitfires, and that was the cause. I forgot to check the tip, and later found some corrosion had started on the threads. Cleaned and oiled the threads and the next one went down alot easier. Just be sure to screw it back on a little after loading each shot, otherwise it will eventually come off.
 
Posts: 50 | Location: albany, ny | Registered: 09 October 2006Reply With Quote
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I had the same problem with my Savage. MMP 24 solved the problem and are hunting accurate out of my rifle. The 12's were a lot of work. My arm and wrist are out of whack from trying to force them down the barrel. Mobic works wonders. The 24's give resistance but no major work involved. Good luck. "D"


Although cartridge selection is important there is nothing that will substitute for proper first shot placement. Good hunting, "D"
 
Posts: 1701 | Location: Western NC | Registered: 28 June 2000Reply With Quote
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There is a Jag on the market called the spin jag.
Know a few people who have them and loveum.
do a goggle search to find a source near you.

Big Grin Al


Garden View Apiaries where the view is as sweet as the honey.
 
Posts: 505 | Location: Michigan, U.S.A. | Registered: 04 December 2001Reply With Quote
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The spin jag is great. Aids in loading and improves accuracy. My friend bought a ramrod from TC added ta spin jag then cut it to the proper lenght. He even addded a spinjag on his starter. I love the Hornady SST in both 300 and 250. However, the Sabots they give you are just to hard to load. MMp or ones I get from Precision Rifle help out.
 
Posts: 180 | Registered: 31 December 2003Reply With Quote
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