one of us
| Why prime the nipple; are you already having ignition problems? I suppose some caplock breeches make too many turns and use up the fire of the small caps, but I'd rather switch to a hotter cap or install a musket cap nipple. Good hunting! |
| |
one of us
| i have two percussions, the tc 50 caltarget has a bend in thechannel from the nipple to pattent breach.. after 2 shots one never knows ifits going to go off. the biggest problem was wiping liquid blowing back into the nipple area caousing a black cement like block in the fireing lane.. the other is a 10 gauge side by side that the nipple goes at an angel down into the chamber, i think military percussions were like this and by all means a real winner, very rarely ever ever had problems.. on the muzzle loader mailing list this is precicely why most of us feel flintlocks are more reliable than percussions, and why mule ears, and mowry rifles keep poping up here and there.... but for the first shot if you dont get oil in the system caousing problems youll be fine.. which is fine for hunting. you want the chanel on a percussion that is having fireing problems to blow back thru cleaning out the chanel, this is done best by getting nippel with a hole in the side, youll find one if you look long enough..maybe uncle mikes.. i tried the musket nippel and it didnt help, altho they are great for finding , and getting ahold of and putting on the gun. dave... |
| Posts: 249 | Location: central montana | Registered: 17 June 2004 |
IP
|
|
one of us
| I have several caplocks (CVA, Traditions, Muzzle Loading Armory, had a Thompson Center) and never have had to prime the nipple. I use RWS or CCI caps and all is well. Typically if you are having ignition trouble then switching to 3F normally cures it provided your flash channel is not corroded or other wise bocked. |
| |
one of us
| Ok well that primer may fit over a nipple but it is really a pan primer for the pan of a flintlock. It meaters out 1-2 grains of poewder per push. It is not needed for caplocks and really is not needed for flinters either. Priming the nipple as you describe offers zero bennefit and actually is a hinderence. You would need to use 4F or finner powder to get it in the nipple. This powder is uncoated and therefore is even more hydroscopic than larger grained powders. Thus in damp weather you would be adding to your likely hood of missfire. Additionally with each shot you would be leaving fouling resigue inside the nipples flash channel which is can not be totally removed by a nipple pick. This residue is the most hydroscopic suff there is. Again creating problems in really humid or damp environments. Plus it just needlessly complicates the loading procedure. Another potenial problem is that you will be spilling powder over your lock. If your lock does not fit tight against the side of the barrel and the mortice in the stock is not tight you can get powder behind the lock plate. A spark from igniting the cap has a possibility of igniting this powder and blowing your lock off the gun. Not a very common occurance with cpalocks but then again most caplock shooters do not prime the nipple with a flintlock priming tool. What do I mean by a tight lock inlet. My flintlocks are inlet tight enough that they will function and flash the pan and remin in the mortice without any lock bolts. They will do this a number of times without coming out. Yet they ae not wedged in either.
Just load powder, rap the lock side 3-4 times, load ball/bullet, insert cap. For damp weather use crisco, mink oil, bore buter, or grease arround the nipple and you will be fine. Remember though apply grease after placeing nipple or you could contaminate the nipple with the grease. |
| |