I decide a while ago it was time to start mezzleloading. I know everyones preference is different and thats what makes life intresting. I decide on a stainless camo synthetic T/C encore since I have always had good luck with T/C in the past. I ordered a 209X50 and other than that I have no idea what I need. What loads do you recommend? Do you clean an inline different than a rifle? Are there any special tools I may need? Do I need a bullet starter? Im sorry I just dont know anything about it and any help would be appreciated! Scott

In general you will need

1. A Flask to hold your powder
2. a short starter to push to projectile part way in the bore to make loading with the rod easier.
3. Powder measure t oaccurate measure powder BY VOLUME not by weight
4. A belt or shoulder pouch to hold your "stuff"
5. A capper to hol your caps/primers
6. bullets and sabots or conicals
7. Greese type lube if you use conicals
8. patches to swab the bore between shots
9. a muzzleloading propellent (all powder is black but all black powder is not "black Powder")
10. cleaning jag
11. bore and breach brushes
12. patch worm to fish out a patch that gets left at the bottom of the bore.
13. bullet puller
14. targets and a good notebook

Every rifle is unique and the best way to determine what load your gun likes is to buy a single bullet you wish to use and very only the powder charge between groups. Shoot 3-5 shots at each powder charge. Take note of the group size. I like to start at arround 60 grains of powder and work up from there in 10 grain increments (remember this is by volume with a volumetric measure). Take note of each group size up to the max recommended load or until the group size begins to open back up. After takeing note of which powdercharge gave best results shoot a group with a charge 5 grins either side of that. You do not need 120 or 150 grains of powder to kill deer. 60 grains will kill deer out to 100 yards. Shoot the load that is most accurate. If you are not satisfied change either the bullet or powder type. Only change one thing at a time so you know what is or is not effecting accuracy. If you want to use Pellets then buy several types of bullets as the pellets do not give you charge volume flexibility like loose powder does.

Follow the cleaning procedures in your owners manual. All black powder and the various subs clean up with simple hot water. Detergents and solvents can make the job a little easier but are not required. After cleaning dry and oil as you like.

Black powder and many of the subs are very corrosive and require cleaning the same day you shot or 24 hours later at the very least. I recommend same day cleaning. No reason to give rust a chance to form. Pyrodex is the most corrosive. Clean your gun until patches come out clean. It will take a while but you gun will last a lifetime and will not let you down this way.

Before the next range session run a couple patches throug the bore to dry out the bore to remove what ever you put in it. Then snap a couple caps to clear the flash channel. You are now ready to load.

The secret is consistency in loading, measuring powder, and seating pressure.

Remember to have fun.

I dont, want to take away from the other methods mentioned but if you want a simple load w/ a simple way to clean, just do this:

Buy these supplies:

1. Roll of Teflon tape (breech plug grease is too messy)
2. T/C #13 bore cleaner (hoppes #9 works just as good)
3. Hornady 250 grain SST bullet/sabot combo box
4. Gun oil
5. Hogdon 777 pellets (pelletized powder)
6. Quick load tubes (to hold a few loads in the field)
7. Palm saver (To put on the ramrod and save your palm while seating the bullets)
8. Win. 209 primers
9. cleaning patches
10. 50 cal. wire brush
11. T/C bore butter


Buy some Hornady 250 grain SST bullets and sabots(they come in a box of 20, the sabots are included). These are the flatest shooting ML bullets out. You will need to drill w/ a 5/16" bit into the Bullet seating end of your ramrod. This allows the ramrod to press against the copper instead of the plastic tip. Smooth the edge down w/ a pocket knife so, it doesn't put a groove in the bullet. (This doesn't take long at all) If you dont want to do this you can buy a power-belt bullet seating extension (it wiil just screww into the tip of you ramrod)

Buy the Triple Seven pelletized powder. You can probably find it on sale at wal-mart since the season is over.

Get some Win 209 primers at wal-mart or a local gunshop.

I would just start by using two pellets and then seating the bullet sabot combo but, your gun will handle 3 pellets. You will not need 3 pellets unless you are planning on shooting past 175 yards. 2 pellets is usually more accurate also.

For accuracy run a saliva dampened patch (on a patch jag) down the barrel after each shot. Also, let barrel cool for at least 5 min inbetween shots for great accuracy (keep it in the shade).

As far as cleaning, w/ 777 you will not have too much mess but, there will be a mess. You will need to clean the same day you fire the weapon. 1st remove the breech plug. Get some T/C #13 cleaner and wet a patch, run it down the barrel on a patch jag. keep running the wet patches down the barrel until they are pretty clean (a 50 cal. wire brush inbet. patches helps alot). After the patches are clean, run a dry patch down to remove the #13. then run a patch, w/ T/C bore-butter on it, down and out one time. You are done w/ the barrel now and its time to clean the breech plug. just clean the bp w/ the #13 cleaner until it is clean (scrape it w/ your pocket knife to break loose the crudy buildup). Rub a little bit of gun oil on the plug and then, put teflon tape (you know pipe thread tape) on the threads of the plug and put it right back where you got it (snug it but, don't bear down)

Wipe the surface of your rifle w/ good gun oil and you are done.

When you take the gun out to shoot it again, it is always good to run a dry patch down the barrel. Some people even fire a cap too just to blow out the oil in the breech plug (good idea).

These steps should get you in the shooting business very easily.

You can purchase these products from Midway USA.com or Midsouth shoooters supply.com. The bullets are only a little less than $7 a box and they are the best in my opinion. You probably shouldn't purchase the primers or powder from them because of the hazard fees.

Good Luck!

Reloader

PS: I shot 4 deer w/ the SSTs last year from 25-155 yards and they perfromed flawlessly (good penetration and expansion).

Thank you both for the advice. I will look for these products at sportsmans warehouse this weekend. I cant wait to get started. I wonder how this thing is gonna perform on a moose. Cant wait to find out. Scott

Alaskan,

Look on Toby Bridges "High Performance Muzzleloading" website, he has stories and pictures of successful muzzleloader hunts and the equipment used.

There was a nice Buffalo taken w/ the bullets I mentioned above. They should be very adequate for Moose. If you intend on shooting less than 150 yards, you might want to give the 300 grainers a try but, those 250s will take anything in North America.

Good Luck!

Reloader

Sorry if I offended you, I should have said centerfire. Sheesh!

Alaskan, we knew exactly what you were asking. I think the main thing w/ using corrosive powders is to make sure you clean your rifle w/in 24 hrs.

Reloader

OK, Thats what I was getting at. 24 Hours thanks!

Alaskan, Cleaning sooner is better as the B/P residue thends to pull moisture from the air and the sulphur salts then make trace quantities of sulphuric acid which of course wreaks the barrel. Other than that, what in the heck is the matter with you, not going Traditional!! derf

Im going to buy a traditional also. After I learn the basics with an inline. Heres the deal though, in alaska hunting is hard and weather is challenging, but I have just made a big step. For years Ive done mostly rifle and some bow hunting. This year Ive decided to make a change. Now that I have taken my fair share of dall sheep, bear and caribou its time to step up the challenge. I sold all my rifles, bought a couple of hunting pistols and a muzzleloader. I will be using a muzzleloader on hunts where I can ride my wheeler in and pistol on my hike in sheep/goat hunts. Im just getting older and killing isnt the big thing to me anymore. I really think Im going to love the challenge.

I know a fellow in Anchoridge that hunts with a Hawkin and he does just fine. He won't go after Rabbits no more though, the last time the bunnies induced a heart attack and darn near got him! derf