Well, I was trying to be good, and I guess I ended up being bad. I had my new Savage ML'er all set up for new loading trials, and my last touch was to torque all the action screws to the same level. I had my wrench set for 58 in/lbs and set the first two right into place, just smooth. On the rear screw of the trigger guard, I began torquing it, and it stripped, it isn't a machine screw into the action as I supposd, it's a self tapping wood screw, just into the stock material.
What's the best restorative procedure, just fill the hole with some epoxy and screw down snug only? Put a toothpick or something else into hole and screw in woodscrew, maybe same but add epoxy too? Or, do I need to be more serious, and somehow put a threaded sleeve in there and go to a machine screw?? The last seems a bit overkill, because best I can tell, the screw is simply holding on the trigger guard, and I guess solidifying the whole assembly, I want to do it right, just looking for some coaching.
Thanks in advance--Don
Posts: 3563 | Location: GA, USA | Registered: 02 August 2004
the sleeve/machine screw is a bit of overkill just to hold in the trigger guard. i would just just drill out the hole, install a glued in dowel, and re-use the wood screw. i restocked mine. when i did i installed another bedding screw in the action, so the screw in front of the trigger guard that holds the bolt in, is no longer part of the bedding system.
Posts: 982 | Location: Shenandoah Valley VA | Registered: 05 January 2005
58 inch pounds is too much for any gun. On a bolt gun with front and rear screws into the receiver, 40 inch pounds on the large front screw and 25 on the rear, If a small center screw is there, just snug it by hand. Never torque wood screws. I would fill the hole with a little steel wool and epoxy, coat the screw with wax and just snug it in until the epoxy sets. Break the screw loose and snug it again and let the epoxy get full hard. De-grease the steel wool first. Dip it in acetone, shake it out and let it dry.
bfr, interesting on the steel wool, I like that idea. I didn't know it was a wood screw. I actually backed off of the torque rating most folks I have seen recommend, which is 65 in/lbs. I usually just snug em down with the screwdriver/hexdriver,and then grab the handle at 90* to the driver and give it a good ummph and call it good.....trying to 'tech up' and not over or underdo anything, so I bought the torque drivers---
Posts: 3563 | Location: GA, USA | Registered: 02 August 2004
If it were me I would mix up some accura glass gel. Take a wooden match and poke some in the hole then shove the match in the hole wipe away the extra accura glass, break off the match and let it dry. after it is dry make it flush and drill it. Good as new. Ron
Had the same thing happen on mine. Acraglas did not stick very well. I ended up drilling the hole bigger so the screw would fit loose. I then filled the hole with acraglas. I installed the trigger guard and just pushed the screw in. A few wraps of electrical tape kept the trigger guard tight until the acraglas dried. In the future there is not a need to remove the screw. If there ever is I know the acraglas will break free with minimal effort. I also replaced the trigger guard prior to doing this. I hate plastic trigger guards. Any metal trigger guard for a 110 will fit.
Mike, I basically went that way. The trigger guard on my ML 10-II is metal though. The stupid 'lip' on the Savage ML is really minimal for any kind of a screw. I put some epoxy,and steel wool into the hole, and screwed the trigger guard retaining screw (that's what I'll call it from now on)into the 'lip' light/snug, like you, I know the epoxy will hold, and if I need to break it loose I can.
Posts: 3563 | Location: GA, USA | Registered: 02 August 2004
Glad you got it worked out. You would think savage could come up with a better way of attaching the rear of the trigger guard. I cannot bitch too much about it though. The guns accuracy more than makes up for the things I don't like about the gun.
