Well it seems there is a gunsmithing course In Calgary at the local college. I was interested to see that they also "speak blackpowder" I'm probably going to take the course next year and build a muzzleloader. What caliber is sufficient for deer/moose/bear/elk. I'm thinking about shooting balls, could I expect accuracy to 100 yards? What's the best twist rate. What about something I could change from flint to percussion? I'm interested in doing a lot of the machiing work myself --not just in assembling a kit.

any thoughts?

the chef

To me, when you talk "ball" it means patched round balls,, for any thing above deer IMO you need to go to at lest 54cal, I like the old twist english style,, my 69,72, and 8 bore are all I beleive 1 x 144".. Now the 72cal and 8 bore are sighted dead nuts on at 50 yards,and I think thats max for that size, the 69 cal is good to 100, but only if I do my job,,

Building one from the get go I would go with a heavy express or hawken in 58cal set up to shoot conicals

I'd go with the .54. Mine, an older T/C Renegade with a 1:70 Green Mtn. Barrel, has done a good job on three out of the four - we don't have any elk in New Hampshire. A good barrel like mine with prb's, sabots, or even maxis is capable of MOA, if you are. I would prefer heavier the bullets for larger game, but a .54 prb will do the job without problems on any of them, assuming you put the bullet where it's supposed to go. They also sell barrel blanks if you're building your own. You can't buy better accuracy for the money, and you don't need it either, unless you want a match rifle. Even then, considering how many records their barrels have chaulked up over the years, you could still go with one and not be at any competitive disadvantage.
Changing from flint to percussion, depending upon your skill as a smith, can be as simple as a hammer change and a drop-in replacement barrel, but it's a lot simpler to have two rifles. I wouldn't try it with my first one if I were you, but after you have done several, you will be better able to determine the feasibility of the idea for yourself and you may decide it's doable.
With two separate rifles, one flint and one percussion, you can make either or both able to swap calibers easily. Then you make up small game, target, shotgun, and big game barrels for either as drop-in units. Each one can then be tackled as a small project with a reasonable outlay of time and cost of materials involved.

Guys thanks for the info I know it's a very broad question. Another-are prb effective? I've been bow hunting for awhile and I can usually get pretty close. Another question flint or caps for a first gun? What's a good site on the net to find out more?

thanks

the chef

I do not know what new ideas have come out in this area since the early 80's, but since you are doing the metalwork a workable solution is to thread the side of the barrel so it can either take a small vent or a drum can screw in with a nipple. Then you can replace the lock and either the vent plug or the nipple drum.

If I had to choose for a first time gun I'd choose percussion, but it doesn't matter that much.

Do you have a Dixie Gun Works catalog? You absolutely have to get one as they not only have guns and parts but a huge amount of information as well.

Have fun!

Also, regarding "bear, moose, and elk" I'd go with a 58 caliber.

Mark that's exactly what I was thinking of doing. That way I could change out the lock as I wanted. I was at the range a while ago and I was amazed at the accuracy a fellow was getting with his flintlock.

For a first time builder flint is easier than caplock. If you are intent on building a convertible build the caplock first so that you get the geometry right, then fit the flint barrel and lock. Deer fall neatly to a .54 but if you want to build something special for bigger critters consider a .62 I built my Tulle Fusil de Chasse from part supplied by Track of the Wolf http://www.trackofthewolf.com They also offer parts for the fancier French Type "C" and "D" guns and a host of other guns. The Rifle Shoppe http://www.therifleshoppe.com has even more interesting projects for you to consider.

I have a side hammer Lyman Great Plaines rifle in 54 with a slow twist. It will shoot 5 shot groups into one ragged hole at 25 yards and 3" groups at 100 yards off a bench. I can keep 5 in a paper plate easily at 50 yards freehand. I bought it as a kit from Wal-Mart at about $230.00 a couple of years ago if my memory serves me correctly on the price.

BTW I shoot at the bottom of a 6" or 8" target at 100 yards and set the sights to hit center. I use the targets that bleed (show where they are hit) this system works very well for me.

Good luck with the course and building a custom BP rifle. When you are finished post a picture I have often thought about building one from scratch.