I buy several guns a year by distance. In about the last 12-14 months from the most recent to the least recent I've had these experiences:

1. From Gunsinternational a very nice Classic Super Express made around 2000 in 416 Rem which tosses all the cartridges out when the bolt is opened vigorously. I like this rifle a lot so will pay to have it fixed. Seller suggested I call Winchester!?

2. Also from G.I. a Winslow in which the bolt will not close on a chambered cartridge,the lop is over 15", and I could sand the stock smoother with 220 grit! Hopefully my $$$ will be refunded less the seller's shipping cost.

3. Also from G.I. a pre 64 m 70 custom in 416 Rem which only will hold only one in the box. I sold this with full confession of its fault on Gun Broker taking a $350 loss. Unfortunately I didn't shuck shells thru it during my three day inspection.

4. And, even from here, a MK X custom on which the stock cannot be removed. I sold this to a buyer but will return his $$$ because I'm told by the buyer that the one who bedded it did so wrongly and the barreled action is "glued" to the stock. Fortunately I like this rifle and so now will keep it.

Keeping it works out well as it gives me 3 416s, 3 375s, and 3 458s plus 1 9.3x62. Ten is a nice number. I suppose that's enough for now. Time for this old man to buy something practical... like a Harley... or even a hunt.

Seems to me that both sellers and buyers need to check out the guns they sell or buy. I certainly will.

Bill,
I agree with you. Most of the time, everything works out fine.

My observations after getting a series of "less than advertised" pre-64 Model 70's are -

1. Know who you are dealing with.
2. Get all terms in writing.
3. I quit buying used guns and just buy NIB.

Lastly, my experience has been that nearly all of the used guns I have purchased are not as accurate as I can get new. The savings in buying used is lost to accurizing, registering, shipping, paying the GunBroker fees to get rid of or repair the offending rifle.

Anyway, I may just be a poor buyer of used guns, but I have given up on buying them.

Moved from the Classifieds.

George

I don't buy from people whose posts are predominantly in the Classifieds (I check), I do not buy from 'flippers', and I do not buy from the 'net unless I know the seller, the gun is NIB/ANIB/LNIB, and all my questions have been answered directly.

George

After two bad experiences buying off the 'Net (one from AR, one from Gunbroker.com) I am joining the "don't send money before you've held it" crowd.

The AR seller offered to take the gun back but I fixed the problem and sold it at only a small loss.

The Gunbroker deal was with a reputable gun shop in MN, and when I discovered and explained the problem, they took the gun back, were extremely gracious about the return, and sent my refund ASAP.

Unfortunately, with shipping and FFL fees, the experience cost me $100, but that was better than the $1525 I had paid for the defective gun.

No more Internet buys for me!

There are more than commercial people that take you.I recently got took by a long time person who I have dealt with before. My bad I sent the item before the funds I guess $380.00 was to great a temptation. I don't know if he is on this sight but he has been on several other sights. I don't know whether this sight has a bad guy list but would like to know? I will never trust anyone again, I usually check to see how many tranactions he or she has made w/o bad feedback. Lou

I still buy most gun-related things used. The problems described have always existed, even before the internet did. It used to be a caution to see that something was advertised in Gun List or the Shotgun News. One simply has to be double careful when buying where he can't see the goods first.

That's one reason I buy almost all my used guns at gun shows or otherwise in person. After paying dearly for years of experience doing that, I am finally relatively confident I know how and what to check for when buying a gun IF I can actually see it.

I suggest when buying indirectly that one should not pay more than he can afford to lose. It also does not hurt to ask a lot of VERY specific questions before sending any money...and insist on direct answers.

For example, if you plan to buy a .30-06, ask specifically if it flawlessly feeds the ammo you plan to use in it. And demand a specific answer. A response of "It's never given me any trouble....." is NOT adequate. He may never have tried to shoot it...or he may have loaned it to his son and it jammed like crazy for his son, but HE hasn't lied to you. It didn't give HIM any trouble.

I have an acquaintance who is an extremely skilled gunsmith, specially with antique Winchesters. He has original Winchester roll stamps for putting on the markings, can fake a 120 year old finish perfectly, and has enough parts around he can make you a virtually perfect "parts gun" that no one can tell from a minty. but used, original.

The only question I ever ask him is a straightforward "Is this gun ALL absolutely original?" He won't lie if it isn't. He won't say "No", but he will say "What you see is what you're buying." At that point if I am not happy with a fake, put together from both old and new parts well enough it could be sold as an original, I'll move on.

If I just want it to use it as a shooter, I'll ask him exactly what he put together to make it, and how much of it was refinished and with what. He will tell me, and if we can then agree on a price, I'll buy it. We are both happy with that. He gets money. I get a gun I can use for a while and then honestly describe to a prospective buyer if I decide I no longer want it.

On the other hand, I've seen other people buy his guns, then re-sell them at big shows in Vegas for over $35,000 (in one instance over $100,000) as originals. If it was later discovered they weren't genuine (which never ever happened to my knowledge), I'm sure they would have blamed my acquaintance. And I'm sure he would have quite honestly said "I never told anyone it was an original."

Takes all kinds. Unfortunately it is our job to protect ourselves from the kinds we don't want to do business with.

Knowledge is your best friend in buying guns, whether in person or on line. Learn everything you can about the models and types you are interested in, before even looking for or at them.

Otherwise, every transaction has the potential to be an expensive "learning experience".

Ditto learning about the seller. No seller screws customers without leaving a trail. Just like still-hunting deer...learn how to find and read the trail.

In big business it's called due diligence...and is a standard business practice before making any substantial investment or purchase.

quote:

Originally posted by Bill G. in Oregon:
I buy several guns a year by distance. In about the last 12-14 months from the most recent to the least recent I've had these experiences:

1. From Gunsinternational a very nice Classic Super Express made around 2000 in 416 Rem which tosses all the cartridges out when the bolt is opened vigorously. I like this rifle a lot so will pay to have it fixed. Seller suggested I call Winchester!?

2. Also from G.I. a Winslow in which the bolt will not close on a chambered cartridge,the lop is over 15", and I could sand the stock smoother with 220 grit! Hopefully my $$$ will be refunded less the seller's shipping cost.

3. Also from G.I. a pre 64 m 70 custom in 416 Rem which only will hold only one in the box. I sold this with full confession of its fault on Gun Broker taking a $350 loss. Unfortunately I didn't shuck shells thru it during my three day inspection.

4. And, even from here, a MK X custom on which the stock cannot be removed. I sold this to a buyer but will return his $$$ because I'm told by the buyer that the one who bedded it did so wrongly and the barreled action is "glued" to the stock. Fortunately I like this rifle and so now will keep it.

Keeping it works out well as it gives me 3 416s, 3 375s, and 3 458s plus 1 9.3x62. Ten is a nice number. I suppose that's enough for now. Time for this old man to buy something practical... like a Harley... or even a hunt.

Seems to me that both sellers and buyers need to check out the guns they sell or buy. I certainly will.

Suggestion on the Glued in action.Put the rifle in a freezer.Leave it in over night.Take out and tap on barrel with a rubber mallet.This usually breaks them free.This worked on a Glued in 40X I bought.