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I have a Javelina hunt in Feb. This is a guided hunt hunt so I am optimistic about success. The hunt takes place about 400 mi from my taxidermist. My concern is the scent gland above the tail. I'd like to have this done life-size. So should I skin the javalina there leaving the gland on or due to the fact it's winter leave it whole excepting for gutting and let him do it when I get back. I'll be leaving right after the hunt and its about a 7 hour drive. | ||
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I have skinned a few and it's not that hard to do. That being said, they taste like shit so if you can keep it cool why not let the taxidermist do it. DRSS | |||
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Best to contact your taxidermist and find out what they would prefer. They may offer different suggestions depending on the temps and storage/transportation options. | |||
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Since most javelinas are full body mounts, you are better to freeze it and take it to your taxidermist whole. There is room for all of God's creatures....right next to the mashed potatoes. http://texaspredatorposse.ipbhost.com/ | |||
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Two things and this is from a litte experience: 1, Bob is correct, fold the hide up and freeze it and Do Not mess with the musk gland. They are not like a skunk, they can't spray. The last few I have skinned for my clients for full body mounts I made one long cut from the back of the head to tip of what little tail the animals have. I wust cut around to the side of the musk gland. This was the way the taxidermists wanted the animals skinned out. The clients sent me pictures and the mounts turned out great. 2. Javelina are good eating if the meat is handled properly and cooked correctly. When you shoot you animal, just don't mess with the musk gland for any reason, there is no need too. The meat is reminiscent of feral hog except leaner. I have only seen what I would consider 1 or 2 javelina that were fat and that include a 68 pounder one of my clients killed 2 years ago. Even the rocks don't last forever. | |||
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Caring for your Javelina is a simple process that you can easily do yourself. I just finished posting information on my blog related to this topic. Follow the link to my blog article and you will find a couple videos on the topic of dorsal cut skinning. This will allow you to mount your Javelina in a variety of ways should you change your mind. Make sure you dorsal cut to the base of the gland and leave it whole and intact on the skin (cape). If you don’t think you are up to the task, discuss field care with your taxidermist to determine how he/she wants you to handle the animal in the field. This will assure it gets to their shop the way they want it. A good method for transporting the hide is to place about 3-4” of a fine salt (not rock salt) in the bottom of a five gallon bucket, salt the hide to set the hair, roll the hide up (skin to skin) while well salted and place it on top of the remaining salt in the bucket. Any moisture that drains from the hide will drain into the salt in the bucket and allow the hide to remain dry. You can refrigerate or freeze the bucket with the salted hide and transport it to your taxidermist. Skinning for Life-Size Mounts: Dorsal Cut Part 1 and 2. Feel free to visit other videos posted there as well. Shawn Joyce Diizche Safari Adventures P.O. Box 1445 Lincoln, CA 95648 E-mail: shawn.joyce@diizchesafariadventures.net Cell: (916) 804-3318 Shoot Straight, Live the Dream, and Keep Turning the Pages to Your Next Adventure!™ Website- www.DiizcheSafariAdventures.com Blog- http://diizchesafari.blogspot.com/ Twitter- http://twitter.com/DiizcheSafari YouTube- http://www.youtube.com/user/shawncjoyce Facebook- http://on.fb.me/gYytdn Instagram: diizchesafari_official | |||
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Express Yourself, Thanks for the link to your blog. I found it most helpful. The blog itself was interesting also. I understand you should use non-iodized salt for hides. Would you put a lid on the bucket or leave it open? I'd probably put it in the bed of the pick-up. I'm thinking that being winter when the hunt takes place, it would be kept cool there. | |||
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Your goal is to transport the hide in such a way as it will stay out of direct sunlight, stay cool, not soak in its own draining moisture, and not dry out completely or become hard. If you can achieve those items with the lid off that would be best. If you keep the lid on you must assure it does not get hot and bake in the plastic bucket. Remember that even if it is cold out heat will come up through the bed of the pick-up while driving so make certain to keep the bucket raised off of the bed. A pallet or something similar is perfect to allow air to flow underneath and keep everything nice and cool. If you can leave the lid off and cover the bucket with a tarp or something similar it would allow everything to breath which is perfect! When I hunt for extended periods of time and salt my hides, after the third salting I shake off all the salt and fold them up and place them in a North Face small waterproof duffel and keep it unzipped, cool, and open. Even when being out for over two weeks my hides come home in perfect shape for my taxidermist and never slip. In your situation the bucket would be a better approach since you will just be doing an initial salting and transporting. The most important thing to do is discuss your plans with your taxidermist to assure you handle the skins exactly as they want to receive them. Shawn Joyce Diizche Safari Adventures P.O. Box 1445 Lincoln, CA 95648 E-mail: shawn.joyce@diizchesafariadventures.net Cell: (916) 804-3318 Shoot Straight, Live the Dream, and Keep Turning the Pages to Your Next Adventure!™ Website- www.DiizcheSafariAdventures.com Blog- http://diizchesafari.blogspot.com/ Twitter- http://twitter.com/DiizcheSafari YouTube- http://www.youtube.com/user/shawncjoyce Facebook- http://on.fb.me/gYytdn Instagram: diizchesafari_official | |||
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I appreciate your advise on getting the hide to my taxidermist properly. I just you'd like to see my trophy. Again, thanks. | |||
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Well done on your hunt great looking trophies should look fantastic as a life size mount | |||
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