All,
Thought you folks might be the people to ask. How should I be caring for my mounts and with what frequency? I'm sure this is a dumb question but I am genuinely curious what the proper way to care for my mounts is.

Justin,

the main thing is to keep the mounts away from direct sunlight and smoke, in an airconditioned room with not too much humidity and away from bugs. We suggest to all our clients to set a fogger off underneath the mount about twice a year during the most active time of bugs. It is a good preventive measure and won't harm the mount. Blowing the mount out gently with an airhose to get rid of some dust periodically is recommended. Don't use any cleaning solvents on the mount as this could damage the finish work around the face. Don't place your mounts too close to a heat source as extreme heat could crack the leathered hide. A well done mount should really not require any more care then that for many years to come.

I "Swiffer" mine lightly for just dust. Run a lint-free cloth with Johnson's Floor Wax leftover in it sometimes (on the horns).

My taxi says to bring it in after ten years and he'll refresh otherwise. BRT is right, no doubt.

I posted a whole article on cleaning your mounts. Here is the link: Care of Your Mounted Trophies

John.

quote:

Originally posted by John B Taxidermy:
I posted a whole article on cleaning your mounts. Here is the link: Care of Your Mounted Trophies

John.

John I thoroughly enjoyed your article and find it very informative. I recently got my trophies back from Namibia and want to care for them properly.

I have question though..."Endust" to be use for wiping down the horns as opposed to "Lemon Pledge" for the cape?

May I ask the reasoning here and the difference you discover between the two products?

Thank you very much...

John B

I also would like to thank you for that article. That is one of first like it I have seen.

I too would like to know the basis of your cleaning/polishing agent choices.

Interesting article! Thanks for sharing..

But.. Once a week?!!
This process would probably take quite some time for each mount.. And I have quite a few already. And they keep comming..

On the other hand. My trophies are in a separate trophy room that's rarely used. At least not as much as my living room and the rest of the house. So dust is probably a smaller problem there..

Another topic for discussion. Hope I don't hijack the topic.

I try to keep the climate in my trophy room as perfect as possible.
How much do you focus on stable humidity and temp?

To my understanding it's quite important to keep the humidity stable between 55 og 65 %RH. Mine is normally 55-60 and very, very stable from day to day. Even though it varies a bit through the year. When it comes to temp. my trophies are in a room where I don't do any heating. Unless very cold situations (to avoid sub zero temp).
The temp is quite stable from day to day, even though it varies throughout the year with 20 degrees Celcius (winter-summer).

Any thoughts?

Sorry for the delay in responding ... been a little busy.

First of all thank you for the compliments. This information is what I given my clients for years, and I thought "Hmmm ... wouldn't it be a good idea to put it 'out there' and I can direct folks right to it?" I'm glad it has been of help.

The major difference between Endust and Lemon Pledge, is that Endust just has mild cleaning ingredients that focus on dust removal ... ending dust - thus the name - Endust. Lemon Pledge on the other hand has an oil to it that penetrates and refurbishes wood with a hind of Citric acid - the "Lemon" - that keeps the oil from building up.

On the hair and fur of a trophy mammal it serves a twofold purpose. The oil imparts a sheen to the hair and fur, while the acid removes the excess oil along with the dust.

As I never apply oil to horns ... I choose Endust as the cleaner for them and use it for the antlered game. Applying an oil based product - even Lemon Pledge - will make those smooth surfaces attract dust. It works differently on the hair and fur than it does on bone ... which is what antlers are - hardened bony growths.

Remember to just apply either spray cleaner to the cleaning rag or towel, and not to the mount directly.

The frequency with which you clean your mounts really depends on your own situation. In forced-air homes and buildings, dust is usually more prevalent, and is a royal pain-in-the-butt! Also, my mounts are examples for my clients to see, and no one I know enjoys seeing a layer of dust on mounts when visiting a Taxidermist. And - as a Taxidermist - I take a lot of pride in the work I produce, and I personally want to present my work in the best light and look I can.


A humidity level of around 55% is considered ideal for keeping mounts looking good. Even more important though, is the preparation of the mount when it was still a skin. Getting past the issues of field care -- good field care is a Taxidermists dream, but usually not the reality, unless it is a specimen we collect ourselves -- having a hide or cape professionally tanned, by a reputable commercial Tanner is a good start. Nothing beats a properly "leathered" skin for producing a long lasting mount.

Next is the skill of the Taxidermist for putting the mount together insuring optimal results for the long run. That is called "Quality!" I love the old slogan of the Ford Motor Company ... "Quality Is Job One!" It is an adopted slogan of mine. I produce mounts that - even if left to become dust magnets - will look good 10, 20, 30, 40 and more years down the line! That is what brings clients back, and convinces their friends to come in with them.

Most of my clients do clean their mounts at least once a month or two, or if they notice them getting a little dull looking from dust accumulation, they will get busy on them, and they always let me know how nice they still look. I like hearing that! I have educated my clients on quality Taxidermy, and how they can keep it looking good. I am surprised by how many folks I hear telling me they have never been told how to care for their mounts by their chosen Taxidermist. Ah well, to each his, or her, own!

I think that about covers all the questions. I hope I addressed everyone's concerns. If you have any other questions, plese don't hesitate to ask. I'm always glad to help if I can!

Good hunting,
John.