I am going to do a European mount on a Mule Deer that I shot this year and was needing help on how to bleach it. I have some 40% peroxide. Does this need to be diluted? How much? How long do you soak it? How do you keep from bleaching the antlers? Thanks in advance for the help.

The technique I have used is to take a coleman stove and a large pot outside. I suspend the skull off the bottom so it don't get scorched black. I use some string to hold it upright and fill the pot with water, but not so full the antlers are in the water. Slow boil all the tissue, scraping some off during the process helps speeds the process. You can also use a fork to pull out brain as it softens.

Here's the method I used,
Skin head and cut away everything you can get to. Be careful skinning because the knife point will scratch the skull.
Boil(simmer)in water with a touch of dishwashing liquid for about an hour.
Scrape away remaining membrane, remove brain. If needed, simmer again for a few minutes and scrape untill skull is VERY clean, nasal cavity removed, all brain removed.
Fill pot with clean water and add 1 cup of bleach and simmer for 10 minutes, remove and rinse. This is only to disinfect any remaining debris that might be left in the skull.
Now fill pot just enough to cover skull and add 2 - 16oz bottles of peroxide(4/$1.00) and simmer for about 15 minutes, check whiteness, if needed simmer a few more minutes but be careful as the peroxide eats the bone material and if left in too long it will fall apart. I dont have 40% peroxide but I've heard several people use it.
Thats it,,, It takes me about 5-6 hours to complete one.
HTH

[ 01-17-2003, 09:19: Message edited by: Nutoy ]

I owned a taxidermy shop for several years (sold it last year and now have time to hunt! ) so I've done a LOT of skull cleaning.

The key word to the above posts is that if you are going to heat the water to prepare the skull, DON'T boil the skull! If you go too long, or the heat gets too high the bones can disintegrate and/or come apart. The correct word is stated as "simmer". And, don't let it sit there simmering for hours, either. Pay attention to what's going on and clean the pieces of meat off occasionally and you should be OK.

As far as using the peroxide, I definitely would NOT use it in a metal container! You're opening up chances for all kinds of chemical reactions that could be very nasty. Plus, I've never heard of heating the peroxide during the process and don't have a clue as to why you would want to. It works great at room temperature.

Put the skull in a plastic container in which it can be submerged. Brace the antlers so that it won't move around and then pour in the peroxide. (ALWAYS use rubber gloves and eye protection!!! - This concentration can take off your skin too!). Stop pouriing just before the peroxide level reaches the bottom of the antler burr. If you run out of peroxide before the level is high enough, just pour the rest of the way with water. The dilution will not hurt.

I then use toilet paper (but any type of absorbent material can be used) and make a roll about 1/2" thick to squish around the bone area of the pedicle under the antler. I also put several layers over the crown of the skull between the antlers. You will notice that the paper will quickly wick the peroxide up onto the bone without getting it on the antler itself.

Using 40% concentration I would only soak it for about 3 hours. Take it out and rinse it well with water and set it in the sunlight for a few hours and it should be snow white.

I then suggest using a sealer on the skull. My preference is Kyrlon Clear Acrylic Sealer because it will not yellow. I've also heard of using elmers glue diluted with water but the spray can of the acrylic is much easier to use. Don't use a lacquer base sealer because it will yellow.

Good luck!

JDS

I do a lot of European mount, so I'll give out my method too;

Skin and flesh the head best you can. The less meat on it the better. Put into water with some dishwashing liquid and/or Bi-carb soda.

While it is boiling away I like to pull it out, pick off whatever bits I can and put it back in.

Let it boil for about an hour, pick it clean(cleaner) then give it about another hour.

If you want to the entire skull intact then you must remove the brain, do so with a piece of wire, bend it, insert and twist, spin, poke till the brains is mush, and should pour out with the help of the running tap.

I skip that bit and get to cutting the lower half away. Let the brain fall, rinse out then with a light wire or stiff plastic brush scrub at the skull to get all residues of meat and membranes.

To whiten I use Hydrogen peroxide at 35%.
When the skull is still moist, dry brush bi-carb soda over it, then start to add the Hydrogen peroxide with a paintbrush, keep adding bi-carb soda until a paste builds up, being VERY careful not to get any on the antlers/horns.

Leave for a few hours and rinse off.

PS: dont get the Hydrogen peroxide on your hands or clothes, it actually burns and turns your skin white...

Express,
that is a good method. IF you have access to a preasure washer(for washing auto's)Give it a try after you boil the skull. great for blowing the brains out. Wear coveralls

You interested in any skulls or hides of any sort?

Daryl

Personally, I roughly skin the head out first and then decide what if any cut I am going to make. For most European mounts I end up with just a skull plate which I then "simmer" for about 20-30minutes in a solution of water and washing soda ..this should not be done in an alloy pan as it will react! I use a large stainless steel dog bowl. Be warned, depending upon the species of deer and the age of the skull it will fall apart if boiled too long!..Also be warned not to do it in the house as the smell is terrible!..I then pick or pressure wash the flesh off and cover in in cotton wool soaked in Hydrogen Peroxide. This I leave over night and then wash off. We careful to keep the antlers out of the water and away from the bleach! If you do get them bleached at all they can be effectively dyed using a strong solution of potassium permanganate (sp?) Mix some in cold water till the water goes a dark, dark red then paint on using a childs paint brush..it will dry brown to match the antlers....

Sealing the skull will stop dust from getting into the pours of the bone making it easer to keep clean plus it gives it a dull shine that looks nice.

Gentlemen

Were is the topic about europan mount, I can't find it ?

If you have trouble getting tissue and brains out from the scull use your highpwer washer and a thin tube line. Don't use to high pressure.

A lazzy way is to leave it to the worms and let them do the work.

Be carefull with the peroxide. It can spoil the thropy and use safety googles and glowes. Don't for get to hide the crime tools from your house government. They can be very pissed if they found out that you stole their pots and pans, even if the cause were noble

/ JOHAN

Thanks everyone,
I appreciate all the responses. I'll be trying this within the next few weeks and I'll let you all know how it worked. If someone can tell me how to post a pic, I will post a before and after.
Thanks again.

I bleach half a dozen deer/elk skulls a year, and have tried several of the mentioned techniques for bleaching. After the "simmering" and cleaning is done what I've settled on is the following:

1. Send your wife to Walgreens or the drug store to buy a hair "frosting" or lightening kit. These are about $7. She'll know what you're after.
2. Mix the powder and the liquid in the supplied little tub forming a paste-like foam. The kit will even supply a little spatula and some rubber gloves.
3. Dub the mix on the surfaces of the skull taking care to get it up next to the antler burr but not on the antlers. A kit will usually do at least 3 skulls, sometimes more.
4. Place the whole rack in a clear plastic bag like a kitchen sized or larger garbage bag and place in direct sunlight for a couple hours. Usually 2-4 is plenty. I guess the garbage bag keeps the foam mix from drying out too quick. Bigger racks like elk or mulies will have to stick out. Its okay, it doesn't need to be airtight or anything.
5. Wash off with a garden hose. You won't believe how bone white it'll be, and its really easy.

BT