I want to take a kudu and a gemsbok shoulder mount and put them on a pedestal and can't find a mounting bracket. I have found one on Van Dykes website but it's nothing more than a 3/16 L bracket. I was hoping for something that the mount can be turned a little if need be. Both of these will be in a coner so the back of the mount can't be seen. Any ideas?

You can get this at Mckenzie Tax. supply

https://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3421043/m/840101998

Dan

Very cool but a bit pricey. I'm saving for another african trip.

Mount a 1/2 pipe flange on your base before doing your habitat, then screw in a piece of 1/2 " black pipe tall enough to go approximately 3/4 of the way up into the shoulder area of the mannikin. Drill the proper size hole upwards into the mannikin from the brisket and slide the finished mount over the pipe. It will allow you to turn it in different directions and is plenty big enough to hold the mount.

I've done this many times when I owned my taxidermy business and it works great.

JDS

jds
These mounts are already done as shoulder mounts.

quote:

jds
These mounts are already done as shoulder mounts.

It can still be done. The back of the mannikin should have a piece of plywood on which the skin is stapled after being wrapped around the back. Go to the brisket area of the mount, take a sharp knife and cut a sharp hole the same diameter as the pipe through the brisket skin so that the back edge of the hole is about where the front edge of the plywood would be. Drill the hole up into the mannikin with the correct size of a spade bit to match the pipe, and you can slide it over the pipe as described above.

If you have a habitat scene, the pipe flange is easily camouflaged in the habitat. If you are wanting to put it on the flat top of a wood base or table, just drill the hole (same size as the pipe) through the wood top, mount the pupe flange underneath the wooden top, and screw the pipe through the hole and into the flange. The mount's brisket will sit down on the table top and you will be unable to see the supporting pipe of flange.

A lot of folks are uneasy about handling or working on mounts but they are nothing more than a big chunk of urethane foam with a skin glued to them. Don't be afraid to think outside the box and work on them. It's not difficult.

If none of this makes sense, let me know and I'll do some diagrams to make it clearer.

Good luck.

JDS

jds is correct. Simple to convert though you will have to cover the backboard with something if they're true pedestals. I'd cut the hide on the hair side of the back board and drill a hole for the pipe, push the pipe in and then drill a hole through the backboard. I'd thread the hole and install a countersunk threaded screw through the board and into the pipe to lock it down from spinning.

These should help...

This is a kudu that was just modified....

Glued in an inexpensive piece of EMT 3/4 conduit....

bondo around the hole and paint....











These are for an outfitter at Reno who needs some future flexibility for mounting...

Going to make a 1/2"wood removable panel for the back,and some pedestals...



Dan

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm more than a little nervous cutting a hole into my mounts and was hoping for an inexpensive bracket (under $50). Any reason I can't use a pipe flange at the ped and the back of the mount along with an elbow?

That's basically the way a taxidermist does the work on the mount in the first place...

go for it...

Funny, the fellow I use has a good size shop,and when I'm there his guys just grab horns/antlers by the butt and sling them around...

And I always thought you had to be so careful


They are quite durable if mounted properly...

Good luck

Dan