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Best way to preserve tanned hides to mount in the future.
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I have 6 tanned hides that I currently do not have room to have mounted in my house and have plans to build a trophy room in about five years. I already have: 2 full body Aoudad Sheep, 1 full body musk-ox, 1 shoulder elk, 1 shoulder oryx, and 1 shoulder caribou that needs to be mounted and hope to have many more within the next few years. They have all been tanned, but I get mixed suggestions on what is the best way to store them to be mounted in the future without any damage. I have been told to vacuum seal and freeze from most, but some say to dip them before I freeze them. What do you suggest me to do with them?? Thanks!
 
Posts: 5 | Registered: 25 August 2016Reply With Quote
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If you haven't gotten a reasonable answer yet, I'll ask my two taxidermists here. one is a nationally famous one, and sure they'll know. I personally don't think wetting an already tanned hide would do it any good. I have a springbok hide over the back of the chair behind me. It is tanned and I got it in 1974, so it's doing fine.
 
Posts: 501 | Location: Maryland | Registered: 18 June 2006Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by tysue:
I have a springbok hide over the back of the chair behind me. It is tanned and I got it in 1974, so it's doing fine.


It won't be fine if you tried to mount it. When wetted and stretched, it will likely come apart.


Tony Mandile - Author "How To Hunt Coues Deer"
 
Posts: 3269 | Location: Glendale, AZ | Registered: 28 July 2003Reply With Quote
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Hey Tysue, I sure would appreciate it if you would ask your taxidermist suggestions on dipping it or leaving it dry prior to freezing. Thanks!
 
Posts: 5 | Registered: 25 August 2016Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by Outdoor Writer:
It won't be fine if you tried to mount it. When wetted and stretched, it will likely come apart.


I think you are correct. I have the tanned backskin of a zebra that was shot in 1996. I had it on the wall but now it's on the floor, and the legs are starting to curl.

I asked my taxidermist if he would put a felt backing on it. He said he'd have to wet it, and it would likely go to pieces.

He also said the only option would be to cut the felt to fit and then glue the hide onto the felt, but even that would be risky.

So I'm leaving it alone.

I'm surprised some of the taxidermists on this site haven't responded to S. Dakota Confused


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Posts: 1557 | Location: Native Texan Now In Jacksonville, Florida, USA | Registered: 10 July 2000Reply With Quote
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These are a replies to S.Dakota from me in another forum section here:

****
Are you planning to have mounts done with them later? If so, you need to do more than just let them sit where the air will dry them out.

How do I know?

I lost life-size bear, mountain lion, blackbuck and several other shoulder capes after a few years of them being stored in plastic bags in a dry closet. Once the taxidermist tried to rewet them, they simply tore apart when stretched.

Sooo....I was told that I should have stored them wrapped tightly and in a freezer to preserve the tanning oils.

For simple display as flat skins, etc., the ones I have are fine.

****

My taxidermist told me it is best to thoroughly soak them, double wrap as airtight as possible and freeze. He claims they will be mountable 20 years later.


Tony Mandile - Author "How To Hunt Coues Deer"
 
Posts: 3269 | Location: Glendale, AZ | Registered: 28 July 2003Reply With Quote
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A good dry tan can be left in a cool dry area for 6 months to a year, I've had them stay in a dry state for longer with no problems. But for long term storage they need to be soaked up and frozen. Safest way to hydrate hides, for every gallon of water add a handful of regular salt. Soak for one hour, drain and bag overnight. Your capes and hides will be soft, towel dry off excess moisture, bag and freeze, will last that way indefinitely. Your taxidermist can do this for you if your not sure.


Paul B
 
Posts: 58 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: 22 May 2012Reply With Quote
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