Any ideas if it is possible to remove the horns from a wildebeest skull?

The skull has been cleaned and bleached previously, and the horns seem a little loose, but no amount of tugging will remove them. I am hoping they are not like Cape Buff who's horns I believe are virtually impossible to remove due to the shape of the cores...

I would like to remove the wildebeest's horns as the skull was not properly cleaned or degreased by the taxidermist who did it originally.

MY intention is to soak the skull in a degreaser and then retreat it with hydrogen peroxide ect...

Would it be safe to soak the skull and horns in cold water for a few days to see if that would help? I am not sure the usual wrapping in cling film would work as they should be pretty clean internally?

Thanks in advance,

Pete

Can't remove horns from a mature wildebeest skull without splitting the horn itself. Soaking horns in degreasing agent should not damage horns if handled properly and closely inspected over time. Good Luck.

Horn cores are curved, so they don't come off. Most of the time, the skull is properly prepared. I have used regular lacquer thinner to clean, degrease, and kill any pests inside the horn. Works pretty good. When we mount a set on a mannikin, we normally use Bondo inside the base to tighten the horns up, then paper mache to build up skull under cape. For a European mount, I have simply mixed up fiberglas resin and poured down into the horn until filled up. A brown resin isn't even noticable. Mixed fairly hot with the catalyst, it only takes a few minutes to set up, then turn horns over and do the other side.

I also drill three small holes on the back sides of the horns and inject an insecticide untill it runs out the holes. YOu can repair the holes with apoxie sculpt. You never know how much tissue is left in the horns and bugs will try to get to it.

Hugh

What kind of insecticide do you use?

Jim

I do what Hugh does. I use Creolin from the Tractor Supply store. Smells like creosote but keeps varmints out. Then I do something others may think a bit weird. I plug the holes and then I pour liquid 2-part foam down through the base (About one ounce of it). I keep my lacquer thinner bottle handy. If the foam starts coming out on to the skull, I just spritz it with lacquer thinner and it dissolves the foam. The interior foam will remain and lock the horns down from rocking and seal them forever from the bugs that might be interested later. Some people pour fiberglass resin but for me it gets too hot and it makes the horns heavier.

Thanks George. I appreciate the information. I have a set of cape buffalo horns, and a set of musk ox that I need to take care of, and this helps a lot.

I also have a couple of tanned wildebeest, a impalla cape, and a bunch of various tanned african plains game feet to get rid of once I figure out how to sell them.

I have a part-time taxidermist who purchases zebra legs from me from time to time.(Don't use the legs in my rugmaking business). He has often asked for other African game legs. If you would like I could get you in touch with him.

Regards,
Mary

Yes. Thanks Mary, that would be nice. Being one that can't seem to throw away any part of an animal, I had almost all the legs from my first safari tanned. To do what with I don't remember. Anyway I would be interested in selling about all except the zebra. Impala, wildebeest, kudu, and some others. I shot about 2 of each. They were tanned by a tannery in NC.
Jim Vaughn

PM me your e-mail address and I will contact you with the information needed to get with him and also suggested prices for you to sell those legs.

Regards,
Mary

Hi Mary, I sent you a PM but did't know if you got it or not. Since it is the first time I've sent one on this forum, I wanted to make sure you got it. Jim

Retrieved it when I checked my e-mail this morning. Sent you an e-mail with your prospective buyers info. Hope you are able to unload some of your excess stock parts.

Kind Regards,
Mary

Thanks for the replies folks..

I'm leaving the Wildebeest till last, which is why i haven't replied sooner.

Blank,

When you say you use regualr lacquer thinner, do you soak the entire skull complete wit horns in it and if so, for how long?

I am really afraid that if i soak the horns in the wrong stuff or for too long, I will end up damaging them..

Regards,

Pete

A few bucks spent on a quart of lacquer thinner isn't too bad, and I will pour a liberal amount into each horn. Kills the critters, and then drain out the liquid with any pests which might be loose. Let dry for a while. Evaporates quickly, will little smell lingering for very long.

Don't have to do the skull if it looks good and clean, and has been prepared properly.

I really like George's idea with the two part foam, and will have to try it. The resin works well, but like they said, it can get hot. I tend to bed it in a Tupperware bucket of sand - holds it at the right angle and serves as a heat sink.

Blank,

Thats the problem, the skulls are still stained with a lot grease marks ect.

On the whole they are better than the others, (another reason I've left them till last), but they do need a major degreasing.

I have plenty of thinner as thats what i am using on theother skulls...its just I am debating whether I can make a good job of removing the horns by cutting across the cores or whether I can some how degrease the skulls with the horns still on..

Regards,

Pete

I have never had any of my skulls which weren't prepared properly, and were very clean and grease free. Usually the problem is the people over-boil them, and the skulls fall apart.

I have a friend out at work who does euro mounts commercially on the side for various taxidermists in the area; I will ask him next week what is the right way to get older, greasy skulls cleaned properly, and see if he has suggestions which will help.

Blank,

Cheers for that, it would be much appreciated!

Regards,

Pete