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Gidday Guys,

Does anyone have any plans for a climbing tree stand that we can use to fabricate one here.

This is a new concept here in NZ so we don't have any examples to work off.

I have seen a number of photos in the Cabellas catalogue and could eventually work one out by trial and error but feel that if I could pick the brains of those who have more experience than myself I would be onto a winner much more quickly.

This idea has a lot of merit and I am very interested to see how effective it would be.

I would also like to know about techniques for hunting from a tree stand and how to make it most effective.

Thanx for your help

Happy Hunting

Hamish
 
Posts: 588 | Location: christchurch NZ | Registered: 11 June 2005Reply With Quote
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Hey Hamish, There are some "tricks" to building good Tree Stands. Your post just made me realize I've fallen behind on my Project List. I've been intending to take some time and create a list of those tricks, but just haven't gotten it done yet.

Hopefully some other guys will jump in with good tips (which may be better than mine) until I can get mine listed.

But, I will be back.
 
Posts: 9920 | Location: Carolinas, USA | Registered: 22 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Since we don't have trees tall enough on my ranch to use as a blind we hunt out of these.

 
Posts: 1557 | Location: Texas | Registered: 26 July 2003Reply With Quote
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I have hunted out of treestands. Obviosuly, the key thing is to pick the correct place for the stand.

Mine (that I have used for about 20 years now) is in a stand of 4 trees. Basically I just hauled a ladder out there with a chain saw and some old two by fours and plywood and nails and put it up. It sits about 16 feet off the ground on the bank of a shallow river. When deer are pushed by folks wandering around the woods they oftentimes feel they can get away from the danger by crossing water. I have seen as many as 11 deer at one time walking single file across that river, and have shot quite a few nice bucks right in the middle of it (I take hip boots with me.)

(by the way, I wouldn't advocate building a permanent tree stand on public property. the one I just wrote about was built on private property with permission. If you want a tree stand on public property, then my suggestion would be to purchase one of the many different ladder stands available from places like cabelas or gander mountain.
 
Posts: 7090 | Registered: 11 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Hey Hamish, This should get you started:

1. All lumber should be Treated or Exterior grade.
2. Use at least one screw in each side as you attach the Steps. Using two is much better. The reason for this is to eliminate squeaking after the Stand has been up for a year or so.
3. Uprights for the Ladder should be 2"x4" as a minimum. Some of ours are 16' tall and some are only 8' tall. You can go too high and have tree branches screening your vision of the Game. So, some thought needs to be given to the height and where the Stand will be hung.
4. Steps should be as wide as your shoulders and spaced 14"-16" apart. Make a short Ladder from scraps and adjust the Step height for your comfort.
5. Stringers extending back to the Tree should be 6'-2"x6" as a minimum.
6. Stringers should be mounted to the outside of the Ladder and create a 115º-120º angle with the top of the Ladder. This allows the bottom of the Ladder to stick out farther from the tree than the top of the Ladder when the Platform is level. Really helps when climbing up and creating a Steady shooting position.
7. Use a Temporary Stand to make sure you have picked a good spot and the Stand is hung to take best advantage of the Game movement. Here a Metal ladder Stand is well worth the cost and you only need the one as a Temporary.
8. Carry an Extension ladder with you to use when hanging the Stand. It is needed to make sure things are Level and so you can get to the Stringers when you secure them to the tree.
9. A single pulley and a long rope come in very handy when erecting the Stand. Plus the rope keeps the Stand from slipping during attachment.
10. Attach the Stringers to the tree before adding the platform. Make sure the top of the Stringers are level with each other(this can be tricky but it is important). Use either screw-in Bolts or Spikes. Screw-in Bolts sure help later on if you decided to change trees or rotate the Stand just a bit from it’s original position. Pre-drilling the holes with a cordless drill into the tree and Stringers sure simplifies this effort.
11. An 18"-24" diameter tree is about perfect.
12. Decide which way the majority of the shots will be taken and place the Stand so the On-Side Shoulder is positioned properly. This might take some repositioning of the Stand, so using the Temporary Stand in the beginning helps get it correct from the start.
13. The Platform is about perfect as a 3'x4' piece of Exterior Grade 3/4" piece of plywood. If you can find it in 9' lengths, you get 3 from a sheet. Scab a 4'-2"x4" along the underside of the Platform along each edge before attaching to the Stringers.
14. Once you get the Platform in position, you need to build some Walls. These attach to the 4'-2"x4"s in step 13. Use thin Fence Slats attached at the corners to create a Frame and cover the Frame with Camo cloth or 1/4" plywood.
15. Leave a section toward the tree on top of the Platform open or at the front near the Ladder so you can sweep out the Stand. All kinds of noise making stuff drops into the Stand and needs to be removed.
16. If you put indoor-outdoor carpeting on the Platform, it just stays wet and holds trash. Just having the plywood for a floor is much better in the long run.
17. Having the top of the Walls rigid is important for long distance shots. If the top rail wiggles, it just won’t do at all.
18. We like the Walls about 36"-38" above the Platform, but it really depends on the height of the chair you place in the Stand.
19. If you use a swivel chair, make absolutely positive it does not squeak as you slowly turn. And what ever you use, make sure it is comfortable.
20. A Roof can be included, but needs to have the uprights as part of the Wall. And pre-build the actual Roof portion and add it with the help of the Extension ladder.
21 Spray paint the Stand in Flat colors. You can not use too much Flat Black.
 
Posts: 9920 | Location: Carolinas, USA | Registered: 22 April 2001Reply With Quote
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This site has quite a few different plans for sale.

Treestandplans

I have not built any of these but have hunted out of quite a few like them.

I can't stress enough the importance of wearing a safety harness on the way up, the entire time hunting and on the climb down. Slows you down some but if anything slips or breaks you'll be glad you got it.

Also don't try and climb with your weapon and gear. Pull it up and lower it with a rope. Much easier and safer.

Enjoy.
 
Posts: 1282 | Registered: 17 September 2004Reply With Quote
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One of our favorite stands is the KP-14 Pod made by Key Hunting Products. It is like a tripod, but with 4 legs, making it a "quad pod". It has a swivel seat that rotates 360 degrees and you can also buy an optional rifle rest that swivels with you that is very nice. The KP-14 Pod goes for $249 and the rest for $39. The legs are adjustable and you can literally put one of these on the side of a hill and still make the platform level. We also use their "lock on" stands and ladder stands, which are also equipped with the same swivel chair as the quad pod.


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Posts: 3110 | Location: Hockley, TX | Registered: 01 October 2005Reply With Quote
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