I broke my hunting knife this week end, on my last day of Moose hunting, in Quebec. It was the first knife I've purchased, 7 years ago in my teens, and while striking a branch, the handle broke... it was pretty cheap material.

Now I want to buy something reliable, but I' not sure what to look for:
- what size and why (some swear by 2 inch blades, and while others are ready to fend of a T-Rex with a 9" blades)
- what model (bowie, rambo, tanto, skinner, 2" blade...)
- what kind of steel
- is the price usually a good indicator of quality?

As you can see from my questions, I am a newby, and since none of my family is into hunting, I am asking you, my extended AR family

TIA,
Guillaume

The knife I used most is a little 3" lock-back, very pointed, drop-point knife made by EKA. Very thin blade, too thin for prying, doesn't hold an edge for really long, but is sharp with a few swipes. I love the shorther blades for better control, and I love the pointed tip to get in to smaller areas, for caping. I have a back-up 4" drop-point Buck Vanguard, I think that's what it's called, the synthetic version. And I usually carry a little Gerber Back-Pax, which stays sharp forever, and with which I'm sure I could skin a moose. I used it for chopping off lower legs and such, but I'd actually prefer a small foldable saw, less chance of getting hurt.

I'd say price is an indicator of quality, but I also feel that in the lower price ranges it doesn't make much difference. Get a model you like and a field sharpening rod, and get out there.

You can pay big bucks for something with an incrdible edge holding capacity like CPM 440V steel, but then when it dulls you'll have to send it in for resharpening...major pain when that happens halfway through your moose.

You can pay big bucks for better materials, better craftsmanship and such, and some knives are certainly worth it, wish I could afford some. Won't cut much better though.

At least, that's my opinion.

Frans
Terra Incognita North America
www.terrahunt.com

I use a Chris Reeve Skinner for just about everything and LOVE it! These are GREAT knives and worth every dime!

JohnTheGreek

I too prefer short bladed (3 to 4 inches) knives. I usually carry two with me when deer hunting, one is a standard single blade Buck knife and the other is a Browning multiblade (straight, serated and gutting edges). I have no experience with skinning knives but I definitely don't like using longer blades.

I have a Cold Steel "Master Hunter" that has served me well. It comes with a good edge and so far has held it very well. They are not so expensive and I believe they are a good value.

Guillaume,

Do you intend to bleed your animals after the shot? If so that will have a baring on the size of the blade required....Myself, I prefer a 3.5" to 4" fix bladed drop point knife with a full tang handle of a fairly tradional design.



To bleed moose or elk you might want something a little larger.

Mine has a blade made of 440 Stainless steel which is a fairly standard steel factory steel these days but there are plenty of better steels out there. One to look out for is AUS85 stainless steel as found on the Cold Steel PENDLETON HUNTER which is quite a nice factory hunting knife at a resonable price.



I prefer a traditional stag horn handle but the handle material on the Pendleton hunter is comfortable, waterproof/hygenic and offers a very good grip in the wet.

Buck and Gerber also make decent knives which won't break the bank.

regards,

Pete

I usually just carry a Buck folding hunter. To get a better knife you have to spend about 3 times the money it seems.

No need to bleed the critter after you shot them most of the blood is gone anyway pooled in the lung area. I use a remington big game and browning fixed blade. I have use every thing from a very small knife to large bowies. a 3 to 4 in blade get the job done most of the time.

I would ditto Frans and Odie. I prefer Gerber since they get very sharp w/little effort and they don't break the bank. Also have a folding pack saw, but would definately use an ax to split the carcas (in fact I would hall the cape and/or loins out first to get it) on a big animal like Moose or Elk. Just bought a folding Remington/Stren filet knife for boning, but have yet to use it. Thought about taking a Henckels boning into the field, but will try the Remington/Stren first.

Deke.

gdupuis...

I'd highly recommend one of the Randall Made knives of their great O-1 tool steel! There are several models from which to choose for hunting/skinning and you will only appreciate your choice more the more you use it!

I love their model 25 Trapper. I have one on order and am contemplating another even before the first arrives.

The only problem with Randall knives is that they are as addictive as fine guns!

I use a Russell Canadian Belt Knife. Made in Pictou, NS, Canada. Bought it in 1973.

I like the classic hunting knife designed by Bob Loveless nearly 40 years ago. Beretta is offering 2 models (hunter and semi-skinner) this year with various handle materials and you can't beat the price on the Zytel plastic handled configuration ($46 incl SH). The sheath is not up to the same quality of the knife in my opinion but will hold up for a few years I expect. I just bought one about 3 weeks ago so have yet to use it, but it looks to be very well made. They have models with fancier handles but cost more of course. See the link at Knives Plus who have given me good service in the past.
Good luck
Paul

Knives Plus Beretta Loveless Semi-Skinner

Go to http://www.eknifeworks.com/
Smoky Mountain Knife Works...billed as the world's largest knife showplace. On the left of the home page click on hunting and check out their 608 different hunting knives. You should be able to find something to fit your needs be it folding, sheath, changeable blade or whatever.

My personal favorite happens to be W. R. Case & Sons. They've been making hand made knives since 1889. They must be doing something right. Good luck with your search.

I use a T-handled Deerskinner with a gut hook and serrated section of blade for ribs. I always carry a wire saw for the pelvis.

4" Buck not sure of the model it was a gift from my ex-father inlaw. Pretty knife has a wooden handle.

Marble's TrailCraft made with Impala Horn handle and with 52-100 steel blade.

Main thing is to avoid stainless steel.
Look for high carbon steels like these:
52-100
D-2
0-1
and others.

Stay away from anything with 440 or Aus-6.

I have been to the Smokey Mountain knife shop, nice place, reminds me of a Bass Pro shop for knives.

I use a hand made Charles Clifton, has been used a few times and still has the original edge and is very sharp.

The Shrade 153UH has the best all-around blade I've found in a production knife. Lots of backbone, and not so wide you can't bung-out with it (but I still keep a folding filet knife in the pack). The scales are a rather pathetic simulation of stag, though.

The 3/4 size USMC Ka-Bar is an interesting knife as well as another good 5" blade with good shape.

I don't obsess about the steel too much as I resharpen after every dressing.

I bought a beautiful knife from Virgil Campbell in Moose Pass AK of caribou antler. He uses some interesting materials, including walrus penis, muskoxen, and bison. I.R.B.I. is the company name.

Something with a blade no longer than 4" - shorter is mostly better. Something which is not too expensive, as knives get lost in the woods. Something that holds an edge well, and sharpens easily. Something that cleans well, and does not mind being thrown into the dishwasher. Light weight and low volume is an advantage, as is a sensible blade form (sharp pointed drop point, not too thick a blade unless you need to pry with it). A folding Gerber is a pretty good bet to me, but naturally there are a thousand other choices.
- mike

[ 10-21-2003, 08:18: Message edited by: mho ]

Knives of Alaska, Yukon Belt Knife. http://www.knivesofalaska.com/

[ 10-21-2003, 08:42: Message edited by: TwoSixty ]

I use a buck 112 and it works very nice.

I did not get one more expensive cause I have lost many a knife.(had this one for seven years though ).
If I do lose it I'll just pick up another.

I have used it on an elk a few deer and two moose.

gdupuis
For light duty and backpacking I have a Gerber Gator ATS-34. ATS-34 is probably the best stainless around. Good value for a cheap knife.

For moose and serious game I have a matching pair of Steve Price knives that are D-2 carbon steel. The words "surgically sharp" does not do these knives justice. I lent them to a friend to skin and dress a grizzly...he gave them back saying they were nice but horrible.
After putting 6 or so big holes in the cape and unknowingly slitting himself repeatedly (did I mention it was an old grizz), he decided to go back to his old dull Buck.

Class to one guy...Pain in the ass to another!

Jamie

p dog shooter,

With regards bleeding out, what happens if the animal is neck shot? Even on a beast shot in the heart/lung I feel that its worth while doing and certainly no harm...Next time you shot a deer, if you can elevate it try sticking it in the normal place and additionally, slit the arteries on either side of the neck just under corner of the jaw bone and see how much blood comes out. How much difference does it make? Well, I am not sure, but blood is the first thing that goes off and it is so easy to do.....

Paul Reed
That Loveless Beretta looks a steal at that price...it still a good buy if you have a local saddler make another sheath for it at a later date..

David Thomas,

Why say avoid stainless steel? Sure there are many fine carbon steels out there, but surely its down to personal preference?

Regards,

Pete

I use a Browning knife that has a blade with a gut hook on the top and a saw blade to cut through the pelvic bone. I've only used on whitetails so far. I like it though.

Bob257

I use a schrade folding lock blade. its about a 4" blade which is a little big sometimes. I lost my last knife in the woods. This one works well though, holds a good edge.

Just thought I'd put in a word for the Puma Gamewarden, and other Pumas of that size. Approximately 4" clip point blade, slender contour that makes the Buck folding hunter feel like a club. Super-keen steel is as descriptive as the company gets in describing it's steel, but it sharpens moderately easily and stays sharp very well. A friend uses his way more than I, and probably resharpens once a season, after quite a few deer. His one caveat is not to slice "across" hair while beginning the cleaning. Enjoy your shopping (buy two!) Mike.

I've been pleased with a Spyderco Moran skinner, and I'm going to try the Cold Steel Pendleton Hunter this year. I found the Cold Steel Master Hunter, while sturdy as all get out, to be too thick in the blade to keep sharp without a lot of work.

I use a plain old Buck 110 folding hunter. I messed around with a couple of sheath knives and have a custom handled Marbles Sport 99 that I really like, but for this reason or that I eventually gravitated back to this Buck. I figure a gazillion other hunters can�t be too wrong. At 3 �� the blade length is just right. It�s not perfect as it is a bit heavy and I prefer a drop point to a clip point. Buck used to make a knife, I think it was called the �Duke�, that had a 3� drop point blade and a much more slender design, but I don�t see that catalogued. Wish I had bought one of those � although I see there is a brand new one on eBay right now. Hmmm�

Ergonomics of the 110 handle could be a bit better but I�ve never found it to be uncomfortable. I kind of like the heft of it in my hand, and after messing around with a few different point types I�ve found it really doesn�t make all that much difference. I like the folding capability as a fixed blade in a belt sheath eventually seems to get in the way of something when I sit down. A fixed blade with a full length tang is stronger, but if I need to do some chore that could break any knife blade I�ll just use an axe or a saw. I just bought a new refrigerator, washer and dryer and you know how heavy those appliance cardboard boxes are. Cardboard is one of the most dulling things you can cut into, but I used my 110 to cut up all three boxes into 20� by 30� pieces to use as target backers and that blade is still shaving sharp. Other knives are fancier, better steel, whatever, but this Buck holds an edge long enough for anything I�ve ever done. And I don�t worry about losing it, even though I still have the same one I bought, geez, it must be 15 years ago.

Thanks guys for the great responses you all gave me. I'm almost thru viewing all of your suggestions: isn't the net great for couch-shopping!!!

For moose I guess I need at least two blades to do a nice job, using the bigger of the two blades to hack him into quarters... or should I really use a saw?

Thanks again folks!

I have a Schrade Old Timer that some how I have not lost after 25 seasons of hunting LOL. It is a folding lockblade made of "Schrade Steel" It is easy to sharpen to a very fine edge. It has become my standby hunting knife. It has followed me all around the states butchering everything from deer, bears and elk to small game.

They do not make this exact model anymore but they have a stainless steel version that is similar and very inexpensive. It should work just as well.

[ 10-21-2003, 23:56: Message edited by: Iron Buck ]

I prefer fixed blades for nearly all my cutting chores. Bob Dozier knives with his legendary D2 are my first choice. Here is a stag handled K4 Straight Hunter:


If a folder is called upon, a custom Buck 110 with stag handles and upgraded BG-42 blade steel is my choice:

GC ,

Nice custom Buck.

I am a fan of the randall made #19 or #25 "trapper", but cost is a bit step but one day I will have one or two I purchased the Gerber game cleanig kit before this season and am sufficiently pleased. I am however also looking at adding the Buck Alpha hunter either fixed or folding with gut hook. This is a very nice knife and under $70 at Midsouthshootersupply.com.

In the field I use a 3 finger knife (you can only get 3 fingers on the handle) with an overall length of 5" and blade length of 2 1/4". I can bleed a fallow by pushing it in to the very end of the handle.

Back at the larder I use an old Frankonia knife for all those edge dulling things like head and feet removal and sternum splitting.

You will be amazed at what you can do with a small knife.

Pete E,
I said avoid stainless, because:
1. as a general rule High carbon steel holds an edge better than stainless.
Example -- an old timer for $9.00 will hold an edge and resharpen easier than any Aus-8 knife that may cost more than $100.00

2. Factory knife makers do not distinguish between types of 440 (A,B, or C) -- and in any event, they all charge way too much for it.

3. most, if not all, reputable custom knife makers use high carbon steel
Example -- Randall, Dozier, and Marbles

David

I like the 3-4 inch drop points for deer and pig. If you spend the money for a Dozier it will last a lifetime unless you loose it. If you have a tight budget Cold steel offers some great deals on "seconds", these are knives with consmetic flaws for 50% off. I would recommend the classic hunter or the pendalton hunter. Also from cold steel is the all-terrain hunter, rubber handle and not pretty but great performance for a $30 knife. AG Russell also offers some good deals. I like their "Deer Hunter", 4" drop point in D2 steeel with a great sheath for under $100.

I use the Buck cross lock, not real expensive, but works for me.
The 3" Blade is perfect for skinning deer and such.

http://www.buckknives.com/products/details.php?ID=204

[ 10-22-2003, 23:36: Message edited by: Mark G ]

I had a gut hook fixed blade of my own design that I used until my African ph fell in love with it. I am using a Gerber Gator folder now and am happy with it. It is stainless and holds an edge just fine. I also carry some of those Diamond EZ lap flat sharpening tools and I can put an edge back on them fast. This year, I also bought a Texas Knife Supply locking liner folder that I find to be very handy.

[ 10-24-2003, 06:14: Message edited by: Customstox ]

David,

IMHO I agree with what you are saying, but only to a degree.

1)High carbon steel might take a better edge, but many knives of decent stainless steel take a very good edge as well, certainly enough to be shaving sharp.

I would also say that the difficulty in sharpening an edge is in a large part down to the hardness of the steel and the profile of the edge along with skill level the person who's doing the sharpening ...

So if a person has two knives, one stainless and one carbon steel, and they are both hardened to the same degree and both with the same edge profile, surely they will be about the same to sharpen?

2) Some factory's may not specify the type of stainless used but equally if you bought a cheap carbon bladed knife from a similar source I bet that would be a crap shoot too? I am not sure why you say 440 is over priced? The Linder knife I posted above cost me about $45 several years ago from a "game fair" and it has given me stirling service. The same knife with the same steel now has the word "custom" in its tittle and retails for nearer $180....now thats a rip off and it is no way worth that money, but thats down to the company not the steel.

3) Most custom smiths do indeed prefer carbon steel or damascuss, but that I believe is because it is far easier to heat treat carbon steel at home or in the small worshop. Although processes have been developed to heat treat stainless steel in a small workshop, in no way is it as widely adopted nor has it been developed to offer the same degree of veritility than can be achieved when heat treating carbon steel. I have noticed that many small scale custom makers who do use stainless send there blades out for the heat treatment to specialist company's...

I personally think that the ease of maintence offered by Stainless is a boon for a practical hunting knife. There are many folks who can start rust off on a carbon blade simply by handling it; it seems to be something to do with the indviduals body chemistry and you get a similar situation on rifles barrels I believe.

Having said all that, I am not anti carbon blades,
and in fact own knifes made of Carbon V, D2, O1 and a some cheap ones with unspecifed carbon steel..I just think you are giving stainless a bum wrap it does not deserve as I bet 75% of hunters carry stainless steel knives and are very happy with them,

Regards,

Pete

[ 10-23-2003, 12:13: Message edited by: Pete E ]