A friend of mine had a 280 custom rifle that shoots very good. I have sighted in in/checked the zero for him for several years. Last weekend at the deer lease he hit a pig a few inches left of where he had aimed. He asked me to check his rifle. He had bought a leupold bore sighter, the first model with the magnet bbl attachment. We had previously recorded the "proper" zero. When we placed the bore sighter on the bbl it was off for sure, to the left. I came 20 clicks to the right, back to our previous setting.
I then went to shoot my 300 yard gong I have set up at the lease.
Two rounds 2 hits.
The Leupold bore sighter is an excellent device to have with you on a hunt. You can check your zero with out firing a shot.

His rifle spends a lot of time "riding" around in Kawaski Mule, which was probably the cause for the shift in zero.

The bore sighter is well worth the money.

I agree, mine has been used on 10 or more different rifles, all with excellent results. It has saved a lot of ammo while zeroing. I have used it to check Detachable rings for proper return to zero, when remounting. It is very cool.

I can't figure mine out. Seems to me you have to place it on the end of the barrel exactly right in order for it to be any good, and the markings are too course to do that.

22WRF
I have found that even if I put it on a little crooked it still registers correctly.

By design you can have a fair amount of slop when placing it on the muzzle w/out effecting the reading on the graph through your scope. As long as you record where the crosshair lines up on the graph once it is sighted in and verified by actually shooting, you can verify your scope is on when in the field by confirming the crosshair is lined up at the recorded setting on the graph. If you find the reading is off because you have dropped your rifle as example, you can bring it back close to the correct zero w/ the device but it is still recommended you confirm this by shooting.

Gary

would you guys go through the exact procedure that you use when you use it. I am so dumb my butt hurts and I can't figure the damn thing out.

Once the mounts and scope are properly installed. I usually just ensure my scope adjustments for windage and elevation are centered in their adjustment range. I try to line the hood of the bore sighter square and close to the center of the objective lense. If you mounts and scope are installed square and lined up w/ the barrel, the vertical wire of your crosshair should line up pretty close to the center vertical line of the graph. I make any corrections necessary for windage then make elevation corrections to get me close or dead on w/ the center horizontal line of the graph. You may need to zoom in or out w/ the magnification to best see the readings.

Of the many rifles I've done this w/ they are close to being on enough to hit an 8.5x11" piece of paper at 50 - 100 yards max. I then sight in as normal by shooting. Once I'm adjusted to where I want to be, I re-attatch the sighting device and record the location the crosshair points on the graph. Keep this w/ your rifle and the device when you travel and are out in the field. If your scope has been jarred and the reticle has moved, you will see that the crosshair is no longer pointing at the same location on the graph. It is recommended that you verify any field corrections by shooting. If it has not moved, you have piece of mind that everything is still on.

Hope this helps,
Gary

Inexpensive, accurate, small, easy to use, and a "gadget" that is well worth taking on a hunting trip.

WN

I don't understand the mechanics of them but it doesn't seem to matter much if it is perfectly square or not. It just works and is a nice piece of kit to have along.