A good hunting knife has always eluded me. It seems like one that holds an edge is a bear to sharpen, and one that sharpens up quick has trouble making it through a deer. As an example, I picked up a Knives of Alaska Cub Bear about a month ago that turned out to be a great disapointment. A year ago, I bought a fixed blade knife from Cabelas that did wonderful things to a big Bison bull but refuses to sharpen since that encounter.

So..., I have ordered a custom knife from Scott Cook. His small Owyhee full grip Hunter to be specific. I'm thinking now that if I had done this a few years ago, I would be money ahead and happy taking a knife into the field. I guess time will tell.

Chuck

P.S. Maybe I'm just picky, but I feel the same way about rifles.

[ 11-26-2003, 02:25: Message edited by: Chuck Nelson ]

Chuck,

It's probably you and not the knives. Get a good book on knife sharpening or buy the Lansky system.

www.lansky.com

I never met a knife I couldn't make razor sharp and keep sharp.

Buck, Gerber, Old Timer, and Case are some of my old favorites and they're all excellent.

Most Custom knives are even better.

$bob$

The proper angle on the blade is paramount when sharpening your favorite hunting knife. Most any sharpening aid will put the proper angle on the blade for maximum cutting. I believe many hunters choose the wrong blade width and length when choosing their hunting knife.

With many hunting seasons behind me, I find the 4" long by 1/2" wide blade just perfect for dressing out any game animal. Most hunters choose a blade to short and to wide to get the job done properly. Short wide blades do not allow the hunter to work efficiently when removing the paunch and cutting off the wind pipe. It is certain the reason your blades are not sharp is due to improper sharpening angle. Many different styles and brands of sharpening aids are available to put a keen edge on any qaulity hunting knife. More people are accidentally cut by dull knife blades than sharp blades.

When the animal is back at camp the cavity can be opened further to speed cooling with a quality sharp camp axe and a small hard rubber mallet. many a fine hunting knife blade has been broken trying to use it as an axe. Quality knife blades must be heat treated just right to hold a good edge. In cold weather the knife blade must never be struck sharply or hammered on, doing so is asking for a broken blade. The knife blade is designed to cut through hide and flesh not driven through with a blow from the hand.

Chuck,

I ordered one of Scott's large Owyhee full grip Hunter and I am looking forward to getting it.

I have found that sharpening knives is not difficult just time consuming to get a good edge. I have used Case, Buck, Gerber, CRKT, Rob Simonich, Cold Steel, and several other knives to hunt and butcher with over the years. I have found that the harder an edge is to put on, the longer it can be used before it loose it's edge.

I use stones, soft, hard and black arkansas depending on how dull the knife is, to put an edge on most knives. The toughest part of sharpening is holding angles. As mentioned earlier, there are several tools to help with the job, however, taking you time and watching what you are doing is paramount. I have old eyes and use a bright light to check to edge while stoning.

Good luck with you new knife.
Steve

I do use a Lansky and can get a good edge on a knife usually in a few minutes. Actually had the best luck with Buck and Kershaw folders, but this Cabelas knife is something else. Anyway, I'm looking forward to the new knife.

Chuck

Chuck: I use Japanese water stones. Learned about them when I was doing wood working and was using Japanese hand tools. They are quite soft & will form grooves from use. To eliminate the grooves just rub the wet stone across some 150 grit garnet sandpaper which is placed on a dead flat surface such as a table saw top or even a piece of glass. This is a no muss, no fuss method. I'd use a 1000 grit water stone. Try it, it's quick & easy. Hope this helps. Bear in Fairbanks

From what I read over on Bladeforums and Knifeforums plus my own personal experience the best, easiest, and quickest sharpener is the Tri-Angle Sharpener by Spyderco.

I used to use flat stones, then bought a Lansky, but when I went to the Denver Knife show and tried the Tri-Angle sharpener I was sold.

At least check it out.

The challenge of a making a great knife has everything to do with materials and heat treat. Great design without known materials and great heat treating doesn't deliver to the customer.

Stainless steels are often maligned. However ATS-34, 154 CM, BG42, and 440V can be heat treated to yield wonderful blades. For example, ATS-34 is taken to 1950F in molten salt and quenched to 425F in molten blueing salts. It is then taken down to LN2 temp and allowed to slowly come to room temp over 6 to 8 hours. During this time the material reaches full hardness. We then draw the blades in multiple passes at 425F until we get a measured hardness of Rockwell 59. Some do it harder, but at 59 the blades will not chip unless hellishly abused.

This yields an edge that can be sharpened to a place known as scary sharp ... sharper than shaving shrap. Yet, the edge is also flexible ... it will actually bend instead of breaking when drawn with force across a brass rod.

I sharpen the blades progressively with india, soft arkansas, and then a ceramic stone made by Spiderco (available from Brownell's). After the first sharpening, the Spyderco stone is pretty much all I use for touch up.

The less than gorgeous blade I use for hunting (I sell the really pretty ones), is used hard. I typically take 5 white tails a year (enough to fill the freezer) and I use the one knife to field dress the deer, skin, and to take them apart into quarters. I literally shave a ring around the neck for the first incision. I'll touch up the edge every other deer ... sometimes every third deer.

With carbon steels we try to achieve an alloy called Bainite ... which is hard and flexible too. Achieves an edge similar to the best on stainless steels but the body of the blade is bendable with high return to straight from pretty severe torsion.

I personally find Buck and Gerber tend to make knives too hard. Most folks cannot effectively sharpen them and they tend to be a little brittle.

I sort of chuckle at the folks that poo-poo their "need" for a good knife. I suspect it's a matter of exposure ... when you've never had a good one, it's hard to love the one's you've had. I really can't blame those folks for lack of good sense ... they are simply operating sensibly within their experience.

At any rate ... Paul Bos and D. Holder to a lot of heat treating for other knife makers and do a pretty good job.

If you're looking for a good custom knife, ask about the heat treating process used by the blade maker. Look for known materials, very controlled conditions, hardness testing of every blade, reasonable hardness and concern for useability and durability. It should be a real hot button for the maker and give him/her a chance to educate you. Lack of interest should be a warning for you.

LDHunter
I clicked on the lansky link and I noticed that they do not have a "contact us" link. All my hones have broken around the screw area and I'd like to find out about a dealer here in Australia. Does anybody have an email address for them?

Bakes

Funny thing, but Scott recommends the Spyderco tri angle so I was going to pick one up today. In addition, he was very informative on steels and what makes a good knife blade. He also comes highly recommended.

Chuck

ChucK I ordered the same knife from Scott about a month ago just for the hell of it as I am very happy with my Randall #25. As for sharpening, I just gave up and bought one of those super electric sharpeners. Yeah I know is heresy but I'm done in under a minute and the edge lasts me practically the whole season. On the Scott Cook knife, I'll ask him for a recommendation. jorge

Chuck, there are certain factory knives that I've been very happy with, such as the old-fashioned, rusty-steel Case folders and the non-hunting Microtech 'tactical' (I detest that term!) automatics.

But for the most part, I don't care for stock factory knives any more than I care for stock factory rifles. I like stuff that's well-made buy an expert craftsman to my specifications, and built without compromise. Mass-produced stuff is just that: mass-produced!

Like Jorge, I'm a Randall fan, but I have to say, Scott Cook's large Owyhee Hunter is my all-time favorite fixed-blade hunting knife, with Chris Reeve's Sebenza being my favorite folder. Both are Idaho products, and both are equipped with G. Feller (of Idaho!) sheaths - optional from Reeve, standard from Cook.

I have my Owyhee Hunter's equipped with full-grip handles of either Micarta or ironwood, plus the blades are of S30V steel. I don't understand much about knife steels, but this stuff seems to do the job!

AD

Has anybody here used a knife made from Dendretic steel? (spelling???)

I have not been fortunate enough yet to try one of my knives out on game. I do have two that I am looking forward to trying though, both with dendretic steel blades. according to the local knifemaker (stock removal method, VERY REASONABLE PRICES, at least they were last time I bought from him) the dendretic steel because its grains don't line up cuts better and will hold an edge about 4 times as long. I do know that it is very interesting, you can check the blade with your thumb as many of us do for sharpness, and it doesn't feel that sharp. But WOW will it cut.

One is a full tang drop point with about 3" blade, ebony grips and sterling silver bolster. The other is smaller, with Sanborn (spelling) stag handle and an acid etched blade that looks fantastic.

I also hear that Cobalt blades hold an edge incredibly well.

Anybody tried ceramic?

Red

Allen, did't Scott Cook apprentice under Chris Reeve? And yes that sheath is fantastic and is what sealed the deal.

My Owyhee will be equipped with a full grip micarta handle and S30V steel as Scott speaks highly of it.

Chuck

[ 11-26-2003, 21:14: Message edited by: Chuck Nelson ]

Chuck, yes, Scott did indeed apprentice under Chris Reeve. And the Reeve influence is obvious: Both craftsmen adhere to the credo of elegant simplicity in which form follows function; best-quality materials are used throughout; and flawless workmanship and finish is the only standard of craftsmanship.

It's no accident that the best custom riflemakers adhere to the same philosophy..........

AD

[ 11-27-2003, 00:31: Message edited by: SKelly ]

Just a quick follow up on the Spyderco sharpmaker.
I picked one up today and it works fantastic.
I'm impressed.

Chuck