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one of us |
The reason why I was a bit down on the techies yesterday was because of a battle I fought (and won) with myself. As I mentioned I have some new roe stalking with (new for me) big open fields with hedgerows. I had a wonderful time walking the boundaries and shot a lovely old stager that I spotted about 600yards away and had to stalk to via some hedgerows and ditches. Before I set out I debated with myself whether I should take my range finder. I decided that any buck that needed the rangefinder would be too far so I left it. The reason I post this is that I then went to the office and started thinking equipment. I considered bipods, higher power (I have 7x42s)binos, a spotting scope,range finder and a roe sack to carry it all in. Finaly I saw sense, I've shot for years with sticks and as this is for fun if I can't get a steady shot prone or off sticks I can allways get closer or admire the view. I saw it was a buck OK from 600yards with my 7s that should be good enough, what's the worst that can happen I stalk closer and find it's a doe - I'm hardly going to shoot a doe by mistake. A spotting scope may be of some use but it's far too much cash and more stuff to carry around. I allready have a carrying sling that fits in my pocket and that worked fine on the buck but I reckon I am going to buy a roe sack because I want something to sit on and if I shoot more than one animal (not unkown in doe season) it's too far to make a return trip on foot. So fight those irrational equipment urges! | ||
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Moderator |
I get the same urges all the time! *G* Part of our roe stalking is open moor and I bought a used Optolynth 3 draw scope for about �150 which I find useful but not essential. It does double duty on the range and helps when you're spying beasts way off on other peoples ground!*G* On the moor, the problem I find is trying to work out if its a yearling buck or a doe when the antlers are cast or just starting to grow....Most of the time you can see the tush but not always.. As to the roe sack I use one on some of our more difficult terrain or if the ticks are bad. I usually use a sling and if I remember carry a bin bag to cover the carcass to keep the worst of the ticks/blood off..I bought an expensive and well made Wrights Roe sack..It is certainly big enough to carry two large does but the canvas is stiff and noisy. If I were buying again I would go with loden or similar... Peter | |||
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one of us |
Peter, Good to hear there are others suffering equipmentitis too! I'm going to be pretty fussy about the sack, I want, as you say, a quiet one, one with quiet fasteners and also no metal buckles on the shoulder straps to wreck my rifle! Any suggestions? | |||
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Moderator |
A friend brought one back a loden from Germany which is quite good, but even that needed some "customisation" with regards removing buckles and things. I would guess your best bet is taking a look around the Deer Fair or Weston Park and see what is about. I think you will end up modifing what ever you buy to get "just" what you want. Other than that would be to buy suitable fabric (some sort of strong fleece?) Regards, Pete | |||
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one of us |
FarRight, Of course everyone has to have a basic amount of equipment it's just that there are laws of diminishing returns and it is all too easy to let equipment get in the way of fun. I shoot a fixed 6 power, if a deer looks looks far enough through that I want to use a laser range finder then it is too far to shoot at! I really think I enjoy my stalking more because I have simple equipment that is good quality. If all you have to do is spot, decide, find a position, steady, aim then life is simple - if you spot, put away spotting scope, find position, put down bipod, adjust bipod, zoom scope, parallax scope, aim then life is less simple. I'm a simpleton! | |||
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<ChuckD> |
So what I think you are saying is this: 2 legs can make up as much distance as all that equipment, right? Although I agree with this concept (I am a peepsighted traditional muzzleloader hunter) there must be room for different hunting methods and situations. One example in my case is that one often sees elk well across canyons--with the use of binoculars and a spotting scope. Here the elk live in heavy brush in mountainous terrain, making the "finding" the first order of business. Sometimes this is done by driving a pick-up to where you take short walks out promising ridges to look for sign or elk across the canyon. It works. But then, once you do find elk, the stalk begins: today or tomorrow. and in this stage of the hunt (very long hikes) I certainly won't burden myself with the abovementioned stuff, as there is much more critical gear in the pack necessary when you get your elk! Soooo, I think it is a matter of how long you are afoot that makes my decision. Chuck | ||
one of us |
Far right, sorry, I've got to fall in with our european friends. We American hunters tend to drag too much "crap" to the woods with us. With the misguided notion that money will take the place of practice. Hunting big game, if you need a range laser, you're shooting too far. By the same token, a higher powered scope only tempts you to try shoots you shouldn't. My dedicated elk rifles wear 1.5x6 scopes. Elk are pretty big animals and I have never felt the need for more power. With a bit of empirical experimentation, you can figure out how to use the plex of your cross hairs and the power ring to determine all the range info you really need. While it sounds great to take the high road of moral responsibility for humane kills when one is justifying bigger guns, higher powered scopes, and the other whistles and bells to go with them, if one is really concerned with humane hunting, get a smaller scope, a lighter rifle and get closer instead of "poking and hoping" that you may scratch down a animal at "bragging" distance. | |||
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