I've had some modifications done recently to an old ladder stand and it's got me thinking of creating one from scratch. There's a local welding shop where I can get it done inexpensively. What would your list of specs or favorite features be?

I prefer my stands hanging off the side of a tree (ie climbers) so not much room for "features".

Hey Shack, Good question.

1. The height needs to fit where you place it. Sometimes a Stand can be too tall and the surrounding Limbs from other trees prevents you from seeing beyond 10yds. We have different height Stands just for that situation.

2. The steps need to be close enough together that a person with short legs can make the climb without endagering themselves. If you are the only one that Hunts the stand, make a Test Ladder with some wood to see what height "you" like the best. Fewer steps means a lighter Stand to tote around.

3. There needs to be either something on the bottom of each "Leg" of the ladder to keep it from sinking in too far, or have the first step about 4" above the end of the Legs. Then when the Stand settles in, it will bottom-out on that first step - and - the 4" of Legs will keep it from scooting.

4. The Stand should be "Bolted" to the tree. A cordless drill to pre-drill the holes and 1/2" Heavy Twist 6-7" Bolts work fine.

5. There needs to be a Hardened Chain on the Stand as well. The Lock needs to be under the Stand, but only accessable by use of an extra Ladder.

6. The platform needs to be large enough to hold a small chair. Swivel seats sound nice, but the problem is they make "sounds". A non-moving bucket style plastic seat is excellent. Drill a drain hole or two in the bottom of the seat.

As for the Platform size, it needs to be long enough so the chair can set on it and give you a bit of front leg room. Too much and you can't see directly in front of the Stand. Too little and your legs are hanging out.

Width needs to be considered as well. You may need to Twist around very slowly in the chair to get a proper shot, but it does not need to be as wide as it is long. Roughly 3.5'<->4' long and 3'<->2.5' wide. But you need to decide on this critical size.

7. A Railing needs to be completely around the Platform at about 30" tall. But, this should also be checked for your height so you can use the Rail to steady the firearm. Too short and you can't get bent over and use it with a lot of clothes on. Too tall and it blocks what you are looking at.

8. Hang Camo Cloth all around the Railing and secure it with Tie Wraps. Have a Slit in the front that overlaps, or plan on going "over" the 30" high Front Rail(Short legs could create unwanted Pain and perhaps a fall).

9. A Roof that extends beyond the sides of the Stand sure makes for a fine Stand when there is a light drizzle. We have some with the Roof attached to the Rail and some with a separate Roof which attaches to the Tree. Only real problem is if you use an Oak, the Acorns sound like Bowling Balls landing on the Roof.

10. We like the Ladder in "One Piece", but we have a special trailer just to haul them around on to get them relatively close to where we want them.

11. Use Exterior Grade 3/4" Plywood for the Platform and paint it.

12. Hang the Stand so the Platform leans "slightly" toward the back(the front up just a bit). That helps the rain to get out as well as Pine Needles. A rug on the floor(even Indoor/Outdoor) holds leaves and Pine needles.

13. To be Super Extra Fancy, a small shelf to hold Binoculars, Deer Calls, Rattlin' Antlers, and DEET is nice. When all that stuff is on the floor, it "will" ALWAYS somehow be in the way when you need to get on with the shot.

14. I suppose some folks would need a Seat Belt(I know a guy who fell from a 16' Stand because he went to sleep and fortunately landed in a sticker filled Holly Bush).

15. Camo the Stand with Matte or Flat Paints. You can not have too much Flat Black on it.

That should get you started or confirm what you already know. Best of luck to you.

They just don't have a small enough solar powered HVAC unit yet.........

Just can't have one without a minifridge and heater. Tv is nice also.

Those are some GREAT suggestions.

I think the whole key is to first find a place that can work one up right and inexpensively to your personal specs. Believe me, that alone took some doing. And remember if it's aluminum, that takes a special welding set-up. Not just everywhere has that. I mean you can take something steel to an auto muffler shop and talk them into a spot weld, but just try that with welding aluminum to aluminum.

Hot Core's idea #3 about closing up the legs at the bottom is highly important. Mine had these plastic end caps as original equipment that quickly got lost in the soft mud around them. As a result, I've had a persistent problem for years with stand legs, hollow tubular type, sinking gradually in the soft soil and mud and then over time where the stand sections meet, they start parting and bowing out and the whole thing becomes unstable and unsafe. For years I jammed pieces of tree limbs into the legs to close them up, but they eventually rot.

My solution to that was the first mod carried out. I had 4" flat square pieces welded to the bottom of each leg and then 6" rods welded to the bottom of those vertical with the legs. The rods go in the ground to stabilize the legs (I should've made the squares 5" and the rods 8").

Idea #5. Agreed on the chain. Nylon straps don't seem to last long if left out permanently. You want to shop for a chain that isn't shiny. I've found them pre-coated in a green color. But a problem has been finding the right self-tightening fasterners.

Idea #10. Agreed. I have come to the conclusion that one piece is best also. Section joints are an inherent weakness. This however gets back to weight and travel considerations, which relates to the question of steel vs. aluminum.

Idea # 11, plywood. You're doing apparently a whole platform. I'm just doing seats. But I agree with 3/4", and I'd make it the best building grade possible. I'd skip 1/2" and definitely skip 1/4".

However, I've become very down on wood seats at all. It appears that our squirrels enjoy eating them. In fact (you'll love this) they also even eat aluminum. I'm told it's for the lead content which apparently they find sweet tasting. Their teeth cut right into it. They start at one end of a ladder step and gnaw their way to the other end.

I also have come to not like those off the shelf stands with cloth mesh seats. They aren't good for many seasons and become highly unsafe. You can guess probably how I know that.

Another mod I'm planning is removing the wood seat and replacing with aluminum strips welded cross wise to put a cushion on. The strips will allow rain in between and will be 3/16" or 1/4" thick and about 1 1/2" or 2" wide.

Those are just a few of many thoughts on it.

I want stairs up to the door, not a ladder!

Stairs? No, probably ought to do it up good and put in an elevator.

Another mod I did was arm rests. Two pieces cross ways underneath for support. Then two vertical on each side up from those. Then the two arm rests on top. All welded.

If you're tall and have nothing to hold onto when you reach the top, having those there are just what the doctor ordered. And they are your gun rests for side shots. For frontal shots, another little alteration was added. I wanted a swing arm in front, but that's a bit complicated. So, instead of an attached arm, I put a couple "stops" at the front of each arm rest. They are basically just bumps welded on. 1 1/2" high each and 1/4" thick. Then I take a stout walking stick with me and place it on top of the arm rests between those stops. It comes in handy for rifle and especially for handgun.

Another mod was to add some hooks for different things, ear muffs for shooting magnum handguns, a place to put the lantern, a place to hang the rope I pull the rifle up with and to hang other things - like a bag with my lunch and drinks.

For camo I've been using flat black and brown because it's all I can find. But since the stand's in amongst hardwood trees, I'd prefer two or maybe three shades of gray. Then I could come close to making the stand disappear. Those colors however aren't easy to find in flat spray paints.

If I ever finish getting this designed I want to have several exact copies built.

I was actually serious in my statement of stairs. I found a manufacturer in Wisconsin who does manufacture a platform that has stairs instead of a ladder. I don't like ladders, I also don't like beating the tar out of a nice rifle pulling it up to the stand with a rope. Stairs are a great improvement on a fixed stand.

The most popular stands in MT have bucket seats, good heaters, electric windows and are easy to move.

mini bar

Here, the tradition is to build youself:

Another classic, the roofed model:

That one looks real good. It almost looks too comfortable. So much so you'll have to be careful to not fall asleep up there.

Where in Germany is it? Public or private land?

As to my stand, I'm partial to ladders so they can be easily moved from place to place. My object is simply to improve or personalize it beyond what's commercially available.

A roof won't be necessary. I don't hunt when rain is predicted. I've never had any luck at all deer hunting in rain. Ours just stay bedded down back in the thick stuff. Same with wind.

I'm now thinking thru how the next arm rests can be done so they'll be adjustable for hunters of different heights. One hunting partner has already said I put the arms too high for him.

Here is one I have out at my wife's cousin's place. Took the platform off of a tripod and put a house on it.



Rad

quote:

Originally posted by Shack:
Where in Germany is it? Public or private land?

There is no public hunting land in Germany in your sense of the word. Land or rather forests wneh not privately owned (or too small for the minimum size of a lease of 75 hectares) are aministered by the public forestry administration. They sublease or give private hunters the possibility to hunt certain areas for a reasonable fee.

Thus, no one else hunts where you hunt, allowing us (if we desire to do so) to set up nice stands without having to worry that other people occupy or destroy them.

Personally, I oferer ladder stands, too, because I am in a much closer contact with the environment. A roof however is nice to have.

For winter boar and fox hunting, the closed "latrine on poles" type however is much more comfortable.

Cup holders?

Some great suggestions. A railing might (will) get in the way if shooting a bow. Also plywood for the platform is fine unless there is frost or snow then is really loud. If itès a small stand it needs to be situated for a right or left handed shooter depending on who is going to be hunting. Some cover at the back is nice so you arenèt siloueted, we love big spruce trees here if we can find them.

Couple of metallurgy questions. For aluminum which is inherently stronger for the legs assuming same diameter - tubular or square cross section? I think I know the answer, but would appreciate some confirmation.

And how thick in inches should the legs be per given height? Not real high, maybe either 12' or 15' to the seat.

One thing I have decided on is to make this all welded and to avoid screws throughout. On the ladder steps, I've also decided on what's probably a little overkill. Instead of just welding them to the legs, I want to drill holes in the legs to insert the steps through, then weld in place.

I agree that cover in back is essential. For that I'm inclined to take the easy solution and just use a very large tree to lean it against.

Here is mine with me in it. All the comforts of home!

Is that your gun or a laptop you have there? You could sandwich your deer shots in between posts on AR...

quote:

Originally posted by Shack:
Couple of metallurgy questions. For aluminum which is inherently stronger for the legs assuming same diameter - tubular or square cross section?

Hey Shack, I'd think it would depend on the particular Alloy. We have used both Round and Square, but the Square was easier to weld up, without leaving a lot of open places for Wasps.

quote:

And how thick in inches should the legs be per given height? Not real high, maybe either 12' or 15' to the seat.

As I mentioned earlier, we had different Height Stands for different places. The majority were made with a 16' ladder(to the platform) and used 1" Square Steel Tubing. We did not need a "Brace" half way up the ladder running back to the tree on them, but there is nothing wrong with using one to keep the ladder from flexing toward the tree.

quote:

One thing I have decided on is to make this all welded and to avoid screws throughout.

Place the Steps "between" the up-rights and weld them in place. That eliminates a place for Wasps and you are not wasting Tubing.

No need for screws, unless you plan to go with a Wood ladder. Then use Waterproof Glue and place the step on the outside of the up-right. Run two screws on each side in the top and bottom step to keep the ladder from becoming skewed as the glue sets. Only one screw is needed on each side with the in-between steps.

Wood is relatively inexpensive. And if you use Treated Wood, it will last a very long time. Only real draw-back is the weight when toting it into the Woods/Swamp. In fact, you could build 3 Treated Stands for about $60-$75 a few years ago. May be double that now, but they are still a good deal - if you have help to place them.

Either type you build, have the ladder at about 100-105deg from the platform bottom when viewed from the side. A straight up ladder is dangerous and encourages "Slips" away from the ladder. The slight angle makes a lot of difference.

Best of luck to you.

quote:

Originally posted by Shack:
Is that your gun or a laptop you have there? You could sandwich your deer shots in between posts on AR...

Good one! Its my gun, laptop stays at the house, don't want it to interfere with the hunting!