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Source for a good bone saw
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I'm looking for a good bone saw that can be carried easily in a pack while hunting. I'm not really interested in the saws that are like cables or chains. Does anyone have a source for a good bone saw on the internet that would handle the sternum and pelvis of big game? Thanks.
 
Posts: 210 | Location: NW Wyoming | Registered: 20 February 2003Reply With Quote
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The Gerber folding saw in Cabelas. Has a wood blade and a bone blade. Handy and useful for everything up to Bison.
 
Posts: 121 | Location: Arizona | Registered: 29 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Wyoming Saw at Cabelas.
 
Posts: 785 | Location: Central Texas | Registered: 01 October 2001Reply With Quote
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The Gerber folding saw in Cabelas. Has a wood blade and a bone blade. Handy and useful for everything up to Bison.




I second the Gerber saw. I carry one in my pack and have used it several times for chores like trimming shooting lanes and splitting briskets/pelvises. It's a pretty tough little saw for a decent price.
 
Posts: 3301 | Location: Southern NM USA | Registered: 01 October 2002Reply With Quote
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Wyoming saw, you can switch the blades out between a wood saw blade and a bone saw blade. I havn't used the bone blade but the wood blade made short work of fire wood last summer in colorado.

I am looking for a a hacksaw blade that fits it as well, in anyone knows of a source.
 
Posts: 399 | Location: Cass County, Texas | Registered: 25 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Another vote for the Wyoming saw. Get the short one in the leather case.

Chuck
 
Posts: 2659 | Location: Southwestern Alberta | Registered: 08 March 2003Reply With Quote
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Actually, if you're just looking to split the brisket and pelvis (I hardly ever split the pelvis), I have used the saw on my Swiss Army Knife with wonderful results on both Elk and Moose. So unless plan on doing some serious work with a bone saw the Swiss Army Knife is all I carry.



Chuck
 
Posts: 2659 | Location: Southwestern Alberta | Registered: 08 March 2003Reply With Quote
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Go with the Gerber.
 
Posts: 1557 | Location: Texas | Registered: 26 July 2003Reply With Quote
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jnc91 - Take a standard hacksaw blade and drill a hole in one end so that it will fit on the frame. Use one of the bone or wood blades for a pattern.
 
Posts: 955 | Location: Houston, Texas, USA | Registered: 13 February 2002Reply With Quote
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I own both and compared to the wyoming saw,the gerber is a piece of shit. Once you use the wyoming saw,you'll wonder why you even bought the gerber. The wyoming saw is available in two sizes. They break down into small packages and yet are sturdy enough to handle real work.



On a pelvis you're better off with one of the safety saws that cabelas and others sell. I can't recall the name of the saws,but they have orange plastic handles with a tip guard that prevents you from puncturing shit that doesn't need punctured. They weigh nothing and are real cheap.



The problem with the gerber is the blade isn't supported but on one end so it binds on you and there isn't enough blade thickness to give it rigidity.
 
Posts: 837 | Location: wyoming | Registered: 19 February 2002Reply With Quote
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I have also used both and I would never leave hunting without the Wyoming saw. Ten times better than the Gerber.
 
Posts: 30 | Location: Wyoming | Registered: 02 June 2004Reply With Quote
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"The problem with the gerber is the blade isn't supported but on one end so it binds on you and there isn't enough blade thickness to give it rigidity."

RMK: you do know that a Gerber blade cuts on the "Pull" not "Push" don't you


No kidding, if quartering two Bison isn't "real work" I wonder what is. The Gerber works well when used as intended. I have used both models Wyoming saws too, and they are OK for being heavier and requiring assembly. Using all three, I still prefer the Gerber. All things considered, it is no problem to dress, and quarter a deer without a saw, but the job is made easier with one.

Best regards.
 
Posts: 121 | Location: Arizona | Registered: 29 December 2002Reply With Quote
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RMK: you do know that a Gerber blade cuts on the "Pull" not "Push" don't you





That's the traditional way Japanese saws are/were made.

Why the he11 would Gerber market such a thing to the USA???

RSY
 
Posts: 785 | Location: Central Texas | Registered: 01 October 2001Reply With Quote
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Quote:

RMK: you do know that a Gerber blade cuts on the "Pull" not "Push" don't you





That's the traditional way Japanese saws are/were made.

Why the he11 would Gerber market such a thing to the USA???

RSY




Have you ever tried to push a chain? same principle with a Japanese saw it is very strong for pulling but not designed to be pushed.
 
Posts: 1608 | Location: Central, Kansas | Registered: 15 January 2003Reply With Quote
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Yes I'm aware that its designed to be drawn. Which is part of the problem with the gerber. As for buffalo,I've cut up several with the gerber also,which led to the use of a traditional bow saw like the wyoming saw.
 
Posts: 837 | Location: wyoming | Registered: 19 February 2002Reply With Quote
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Don't know if it would work on large game but we use the rolled up tree limb saw,that has the "D" rings on each end, it allows us to slip it in and around bone and then its just a back and forth motion, and bingo it done
 
Posts: 1529 | Location: Tidewater,Virginia | Registered: 12 August 2002Reply With Quote
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Stanley makes a nice folding saw that uses sawzall blades, or at least they used to make one, I've had mine for 10 years at least.
 
Posts: 7774 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
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If you aren't packing it in on your back, you can't beat a reciprocating saw. Zip and your done.
 
Posts: 399 | Location: Louisiana | Registered: 19 February 2004Reply With Quote
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Actually a chain saw with the oiler removed is pretty impressive.
 
Posts: 837 | Location: wyoming | Registered: 19 February 2002Reply With Quote
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Actually a chain saw with the oiler removed is pretty impressive.




You got that right! I've helped quarter moose with a chainsaw, and it is fast-- and gruesome!

We've always cleaned the chainsaw really well (including removing the oil) and replaced the oil with corn or peanut oil.

However, I really don't think any oil is needed: the blood, the fatty marrow from interiour of the large bones, and the cerebrospinal fluid from the spinal column are very lubricating!

Oh, and by the way, don't go into a diner after quartering big critters with a chainsaw unless you wash up first...

jpb
 
Posts: 1006 | Location: northern Sweden | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Ralphie,



First of all what size animals is this designed for?



I have the Gerber too...it does an "ok" job but does have a few draw backs. Like all folding saws, it s a little fiddly to clean and I too find it suffers the same draw backs RMK mentioned in the threads above. I now only use it for pruning tree branches ect..BTW, ideally bone should cut on the pull stroke, the idea being that THE bone dust and chips are pulled out of the cavity rather than pushed into it.



For Whitetail size animals, I now usw the Gerber EZ Saw. It is a "T" handled saw with a protected point, but the blade is a little longer than the more common orange handled variety.



Its easy to clean and works very, very well.







These are cheap and cheerful saws, but the blade is very good..the handle is functional, but not exactly a top quality item.Don't get me wrong, its not flimsy or anything just a little cheesy looking IMHO. These saws seem to retail in the States at around the $15 -$20 and I think are great value at that price.



For larger animals I would go for one of the Outdoor Edge Saws. Their Grize(below) saw has a 6" or 8" blade and a much better quality handle than the Gerber EZ saw.







I like the look of the Wyoming saw and its seems to be closer to a "real" butchers saw if thats what you want. However, for just opening the chest and pelvis, I really do like that Gerber EZ saw...



Regards,



Pete
 
Posts: 5684 | Location: North Wales UK | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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