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I don't see a gun safe forum, so I will make this topic fit this forum. For all you American Big Game Hunters (  ) who makes the best long gun safe? I have a good one, but a friend is asking for recommendations. Thanks. | ||
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Wendell, Here is a recent thread i contributed to. http://forums.accuratereloadin...231015111#4231015111 DuggaBoye-O NRA-Life Whittington-Life TSRA-Life DRSS DSC HSC SCI | |||
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The real question is, what is he trying to protect and how much does he want to spend on that protection? xxxxxxxxxx When considering US based operations of guides/outfitters, check and see if they are NRA members. If not, why support someone who doesn't support us? Consider spending your money elsewhere. NEVER, EVER book a hunt with BLAIR WORLDWIDE HUNTING or JEFF BLAIR. I have come to understand that in hunting, the goal is not the goal but the process. | |||
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Fort Knox seems like a cut above. | |||
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Thanks DuggaBoye. Maybe if I had utilized the search function that would have come up?  Gato, the safe is to deter grubby little kid paws since he has 2 kids. Child Safety, fire protection and theft are teh main reasons. Since the value of the collection won't likely exceed $15k, it is mostly for safety. Cost, within reason, is not a determining factor. | |||
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Liberty makes good safes for the money, probably the best value safe, and safes all the way up to "you gotta be kidding me". Browning makes pretty safes, which are also secure. Visalia makes good safes on a budget. Instead of a particular manufacturer, look for the following: You will want a UL listed residential burglar rating. Look at the actual fire rating, most of these are rated by different companies. Most safes are pretty good, but make sure your's is rated for 1200 for 30 minutes. You will want some type of drill plate surrounding the lockset. Your best combo locks are Sargent & Greenleaf (S&G). I would highly recommend them for reliability and security. Make sure you have at least 1" door bolts all around (top, sides, and bottom". For some reason most burglars try to pry the safe door open, if you don't have top and bottom bolts, they may not get in, but you may not be able to open the door if it is warped. Bolt them down, mostly to keep it from tipping when that heavy door is open. Good luck John | |||
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Wendell - Have you checked Wal-Mart yet???? | |||
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As always, you are a huge help.  | |||
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+1 NRA Life Member DSC Life Member Government exists to protect us from each other. Where government has gone beyond its limits is in deciding to protect us from ourselves. Ronald Reagan | |||
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Wendell, This web site has a reasonable selection and many of the prices include free shipping. http://www.factory-express.com/ They also stand by their stuff. I had one arrive damaged. Zero hassles a new one was on the way in a day. Mike Legistine actu quod scripsi? Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue.  What I have learned on AR, since 2001: 1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken. 2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps. 3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges. 4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down. 5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine. 6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle. 7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions. 8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA. 9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not. 10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact. 11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores. 12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence. 13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances. | |||
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Here is a picture of my Liberty after my shop roof fell in this past winter. After I dug it out to get this picture the only damage was a bent handle that I fixed later.  For the money I like the liberty safes. ________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | |||
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Wendell Take a look at www.sturdysafe.com I have done a lot of research, and for the money they are very good. Post corrected, thanks to Charles Helm. DOUBLE RIFLE SHOOTERS SOCIETY | |||
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Try this link instead -- I got bad juju from the other one: http://www.sturdysafe.com/ ------------------------------- Some Pictures from Namibia Some Pictures from Zimbabwe An Elephant Story | |||
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The reason I asked is if you really want protection you have to go to jewelry rated safes, which cost more and are usually a bit smaller than the larger gun safes. TL-30x6 rated safes would be his best bet if he's trying to protect real valuables. For his uses, fire protection is the no 1 consideration.....any of the safes will keep guns out of kids reach UNLESS he is dumb enough to let them know where the combination is.....surprisingly how many people do that.......I personally have a Ft. Knox and a lesser expensive model Liberty. The Liberty is broken half the time due to inferior materials in the locking mechanism. Personally I'd choose some other brand than Liberty. Finally, tell him to get ABSOLUTELY the largest model he can fit into his space and can afford. It won't be enough, but it will take longer before he needs two...... xxxxxxxxxx When considering US based operations of guides/outfitters, check and see if they are NRA members. If not, why support someone who doesn't support us? Consider spending your money elsewhere. NEVER, EVER book a hunt with BLAIR WORLDWIDE HUNTING or JEFF BLAIR. I have come to understand that in hunting, the goal is not the goal but the process. | |||
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Charles, Thanks I had an extra "s" in my address. The site you posted is the correct one. They are good people to deal with. DOUBLE RIFLE SHOOTERS SOCIETY | |||
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N E 450 No2 Yes, they seem to have very nice safes there!  | |||
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Wendell That is the owners daughter. I have talked to the owner, his wife and the daughter.  Study their web site and give them a call. Their safe is GOOD STUFF. DOUBLE RIFLE SHOOTERS SOCIETY | |||
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Wendell, I bought two of the Browning safes, and they have served me well since buying them about 11 years ago. I've done no safe comparing, so no words of wisdom there. Where I live, I have few choices on safes. If I was to buy one at a distant location, moving it would be my responsibility. Our local gun shop carried Brownings, so that's what I have. They moved each safe for me and put them in place in my house. One thing about all of Browing products, they are well made, and my two safe's are no exception. I open each one about 12 times each week, so the locks have had a lot of experience... | |||
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Wendell, check out Homeland Safes. If they don't have one in stock that you like, they'll make it to your specs. I had them make me one a while back and really like it. It has upgraded fire protection (2300 degrees for 45 minutes), internal lighting, pistol hangers, all that good stuff. Real solid safe at a reasonable price. Very good staff to do business with also. The only problem I have with mine is that I've outgrown it. Get one twice as big as you think you need! _____________________ A successful man is one who earns more money than his wife can spend. | |||
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Ditto what fatcat said. Most any gun safe will protect against the random burglar or curious children. For real protection, look into a TL-15 or TL-30 rated safe. They can sometimes be purchased used for not much more than a new gun safe. NRA Life Member, Band of Bubbas Charter Member, PGCA, DRSS. Shoot & hunt with vintage classics. | |||
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I bought a 24 gun Liberty Centurion at Sams about a month ago for $688, for the money it was a pretty good buy. It retails at the Liberty dealer in Fort Collins for over $1100. Fits perfectly in my closet. For an inexpensive safe it should work well for what I need it for | |||
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I spoke with the son of the owner of AG English (#1 dealer of safes in the US of most if not all the major brands). He said fire is the #1 issue he sees with safes that fail. Or not locking the door. Most thieves are opportunists and just go right by a safe. Too much work unless it is an 'inside' job and they know what you have in there and really really want it. I wish I had dropped the coin on a huge Ft Knox and been done. I have two safes that are good enough, but a huge Ft Knox at the beginning would have been cheaper. I would avoid the Bass Pro et al branded safes. At one time they were made by some of the better US companies and rebranded. Now? Chinese junk with sound alike names on the locks. Agree with real S&G locks as mentioned above. From what I have read, no difference in failure of mechanical vs electronic locks. Hunting: Exercising dominion over creation at 2800 fps. | |||
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Duckear I had several safe dealers, and makers tell me NOT to get the electronic lock. DOUBLE RIFLE SHOOTERS SOCIETY | |||
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Another reason to use a high security safe. Most are now made with composite materials designed to thwart attack by abrasives or thermal lance and are thus also good for fire protection, even though they may not be rated for fire. I would avoid electronic locks. If I had a collection of Parker A-1 Specials or English shotguns, I would have one of these:ISM NRA Life Member, Band of Bubbas Charter Member, PGCA, DRSS. Shoot & hunt with vintage classics. | |||
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I wont disagree. I have one of each, both S&G. No trouble with either. I like the 'quality' feel of the mechanical, but the convenience of the electronic is hard to ignore. As long as you don't spin the dials on the mechanical one, you are likely okay. The electronic is nice because you can change the combo easily if your combination is compromised some way or you can let someone have temporary access to your stuff. Hunting: Exercising dominion over creation at 2800 fps. | |||
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My safe is from the Sportsman Steel Safe Company - here’s a link to their website: http://www.sportsmansteelsafes...rsenal_gun_safes.htm I purchased the 59”x40”x28” Special Deal safe shown towards the bottom of the linked page except in black with the 2” door and 75-minute fireproofing. I checked all of the major brands of safes; i.e., Fort Knox, Liberty, Browning, etc., before I purchased the Sportsman Steel safe but none met their combination of construction, fireproofing, features, and pricing – especially the pricing. I recommend that your friend phone them for pricing and take a trip to their Houston facility to view their products before purchasing another brand. Jim  "Life's hard; it's harder if you're stupid" John Wayne | |||
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I myself, like DMB have 2 Browning safes. When I retire I will build my oun in my new house. The vault door is the biggest expence. Make your safe with block and rerod and the size you want. It will be as safe if not more than you will probably need. Just my thoughts, Jeff | |||
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1) Deterrence 2) Concealment 3) Physical Security I don't think you need a big, heavy and obtrusive TL rated safe unless that is your ONLY layer of security. Think about it, you might spend $4000+ on a safe like that. You might be better off installing a monitored alarm system (complete with all the signs in the yard etc), a couple of security cams (fake or real), putting bars on the windows and upgrading your houses doors, building a hidden room or closet to conceal the safe, and THEN spend $1,500 on a basic 10 gauge steel gun safe. One might be able to do all of the above and better protect the whole house and family for the same money as a big TL rated safe that is only capable of protecting physical things that are really replacable. | |||
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+2 "An individual with experience is never at the mercies of an individual with an argument" | |||
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Thanks for the advice guys. Cost is not an issue within reason, so I have given him all the info. He owns 4 guns with aspirations for more. I suggested a 32 gun safe (or similar size), which I am sure he will go with. Thanks for the help. | |||
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by DMB: Wendell, I bought two of the Browning safes, and they have served me well since buying them about 11 years ago. QUOTE] The elk "portrait" used on the Browning safes was done by noted artist Leon Parsons. He used a photo of mine first published in the NRA's American Hunter magazine. Once he was done, he sent me the original scratch art.  Tony Mandile - Author "How To Hunt Coues Deer" | |||
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Tony, AWESOME!!!  I LOVE Wildlife art!!! Don | |||
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