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| one of us |
At the range Saturday I tried out my new Winchester 94 Ranger (won in a raffle) with the Williams Foolproof sight I put on it. It seemed to shoot decently but I'm not sure I trust my results, let alone my zero, due to the imprecision of aiming with a black front bead. I have done a fair amount of shooting with the GI aperture sights on the AR-15, but the square-topped front post gives a more positive index of elevation than the bead. For bead sight users -- do you use the top of the bead as your point of aim, or do you cover the target with the bead? If the latter, what sort of humongous target do you use for zeroing? My bead completely covered the bull of an SR-1 target. For bead sight haters, what alternative would you suggest? I can buy a blank from Brownell's and shape it to fit, but most of the front blades available seem to be designed for a front ramp; my 94 has a dovetail right on the barrel. Thanks, John | ||
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| one of us |
That's why I shoots scopes now. I used to use a dead on hold with my peeps. | |||
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one of us |
My target training was aperature and aperature. So for me, using the front bead as an "aperature" was a natural. I just center the bead on the target bull. I agree it's not as precise as a post, certainly not as precise as a front aperature for target. But for hunting purposes it's accurate enough, and very fast. I did switch to a smaller bead than my Model 94 came with, and I needed a taller post as well, my foolproof would not go low enough. | |||
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| <Daryl Elder> |
I believe the best technique is a six 'o clock hold like a pistol. POI should be directly above POA at a given distance. That way the target is not obscured. FWIW, Daryl.  | ||
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| one of us |
I'd switch the bead for one of NECG's posts... With a bead the rifle should shoot spot on.. With a post the bullet should impact right on top of the post. the above is particularly true with a DGR.... I never pay any attention to the rear sight and shoot with both eyes open and just place the front sight on the target and use my controlled flinch. that is the only way to use a reciever sight and they are a fine hunting sight...the 30-30's ranging ability are matched to the receiver sight in that they both work pretty well up to about 250 yards. ------------------ | |||
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| one of us |
Thanks, all. I believe that if I take this rifle hunting in the remaining few days of our season, I will center the bead on the target. Post-season I'll mount a scope for ammo testing purposes, then put on a post before next fall. John | |||
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| one of us |
Flat top post seems to work best for me but everybodys diff. I like a large square post it seems natural to put the flat of the post to where you want the bullet to go. | |||
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one of us |
There are basically two type sight pictures with a receiver sight. (1) The Army hold..The top of the front post in centered in the peep & the target sits on top of the post. (2) The Navy hold..The target is centered in the peep & the post sits under target. Generally the majority of DCM shooters prefer the Army hold. ------------------ [This message has been edited by Bear Claw (edited 12-22-2001).] | |||
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| <MontanaMarine> |
After putting a williams peep on a Remington 700, my technique was to take a file, work the bead into a flat top blade, and reblue with a q-tip. MM | ||
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| one of us |
quote:
Oddly enough, NRA training materials favor the six o'clock ("Navy") hold even though NRA was founded by Army officers and helps run Camp Perry with the Army. On the other hand, when I was doing a little competitive bullseye pistol shooting I was coached by a retired Marine who knew his stuff and he favored the center ("Army") hold, as did I by the time I was through. I never felt confident of my elevation with the bullseye so blurry. Speaking of Marines -- MontanaMarine's suggestion is temptingly low-tech -- I don't think I have enough downward adjustment available in my rear sight to make it work, but since I was going to throw away the bead anyway, it sounds like a winner! John | |||
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| <MontanaMarine> |
I didn't file the bead off. I made the sides and top flat. This didn't require any drastic rear sight adjustment to get sighted in. I've always put the ceter of the top edge of the front blade where I want the bullet to impact and adjusted the aperture as necessary. MM | ||
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| <303hunter> |
With my .44 Ruger Deerfield (also has the monster gold bead) I adjusted my point of impact to sent the rounds to the very top of the bead with a six o'clock hold. This worked out to where I was still on pretty well at shorter range (50 yards 'stead of 100). Check out a Deerfield, the prices have really fallen. | ||
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| <Deafdog> |
Hi John I have a BLR .223 with a Williams receiver peep sight. The front sight I use is a Williams Fire Sight.Which is a small piece of fibre optic cable that glows with any light falling on it. I basically look through the rear peep (.150) and place the "red dot" on what I want to hit. Your eye automatically centres the "red dot" in the aperture so where the "red dot" is the bullet goes. Regards ------------------ | ||
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one of us |
I learned to shoot across the course in the Navy marksmanship program in the late 70s, and I continued to shoot into the 80s. The old chiefs who taught me liked the Navy hold for service rifle sights for most shooting (sitting and prone). The bull was centered in the aperture, and the post front sight just touched the 6 o'clock of the bull for the most precise elevation control. But for standing at 200 yards they felt that the center hold was better: your natural wobble area stayed centered on the black (hopefully the X ring!)where with the 6 o'clock hold your wobble part of the time was on the white. Sighting in with the 6 o'clock hold on a bullseye target will give you a bit more elevation if you use a center hold on an animal. jim dodd ------------------ | |||
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