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Have LRF--Scope Zero?
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<MOA>
posted
I will be receiving a LRF 1200 tomorrow. I sold my Bushnell 1000 when I heard how great they were. Now with hunting season approaching quickly I need to decided where to zero my scope. I'm shooting a 270 WSM and live out west where shots can be long. Right now I'm shooting a .433 BC bullet at 3300 (130 gr) and it's only about 2.5" high at one hundred with a 275 yard zero. I'm considering zeroing it at 100 to make the math straight forward for extended ranges. It's only 2 inches low at 200 yards so theoretically I can hold dead on out to at least 250, and anything further I'd want to range anyways. Can you guys offer some opinion on where to zero your rifle when using a range finder?
 
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<Big Stick>
posted
Just because you have a laser,does not warranmt shortseating your rifle's capabilities(in my opinion).

Keep a sane zero and work from there. Simply divide drop in inches,by range in yards,to determine MOA comeups to feed your scope.

I suggest confirming range via the laser,whenever time allows. No need to confirm a 30yd shot,but a standing animal beyond your zero range,is deserving of that attention,especially if you wish to Whack him(my opinion all). I try to incorporate my laser,in most scenarios,excluding the blatantly obvious close range exceptions. I've yet to be disappointed.

My humble opinion,is to steer you towards a scope of repute,that has repeatable target turrets. That enables you to rapidly get a laser confirmed range and dial in the required elevation into your scope. Naysayers may balk,but I have turrets on all my rifles and tote a laser with much zeal. It takes but mere seconds to confirm range and engage with great precision.

If I can't range it,I have zero business taking the shot. I feel the laser to be the greatest advent,of recent times................
 
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Sounds like to me your OK, I use the 2 to 2.5 high at 100 yd. setting on most guns...

Most all animals that are missed are overshot, at least that has been my observed experience...
 
Posts: 42190 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Why not use a 200 yard zero and then you should be able to hold dead on out to 300-350 yards depending on how the gun shoots. Ballistic tables are useful but they are only a start. If you intend to shoot long range you need to at least group the gun at the distances you expect to take shots. My experience at long range (beyond 300 yards) says that rifles generally exhibit at least 1 minute deviation from the ballistics chart and I've seen some that were off more than that. That means an average gun could shoot three inches high/low from where the tables predict it will strike at say 300 yards
That's my expereience. Do what you want...its a free country.
 
Posts: 457 | Location: Kentucky | Registered: 25 February 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of JeffP
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I agree with Kentucky Nimrod,that if you expect to shoot 300,400,or what ever yards you should
practice at that range.I have yet to have a table
be close enough to what I actually get in the field.At least not close enough for me to hunt with.
Jeff
 
Posts: 2482 | Location: Alaska....At heart | Registered: 17 January 2002Reply With Quote
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I agree totally with the good advice you have been given.Shoot your rifle at the actual distances to see if they do agree with the tables as although the tables are in the ballpark they can be out enough to cause problems at longer ranges.The same goes for velocities quoted by manufacturers.At any rate I would never attempt a shot at a game animal at any distance I had not practised regularly at.

[ 08-08-2002, 03:10: Message edited by: stubblejumper ]
 
Posts: 3104 | Location: alberta,canada | Registered: 28 January 2002Reply With Quote
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