I received this 270 win about a year ago and now I"m finally loading for it. It was used and its about 30 years old.

It has a 24" barrel and a .5"+ long throat and it loves 150gr. Ballistic tips. I tried 150gr. Sierra's and they didn't even touch the target. I then tried TSX's and they did the same thing, all over the place.

From what I'm seeing, it likes a bullet with a lot of bairing surface.

To add to this, with a high pressure load (light sticky bolt)the 150gr. Nosler BT Chrono'd at 2600fps?!?!?, from 10ft. and all of the books I've looked at say I should be around 2850fps+.

what is going on with this gun?

The preference for a particular bullet isn't strange. My guns, in general don't like Barnes Triple Shocks as well as other stuff. It probably doesn't have as much to do with bearing surface as it does with irregularities of bullet manufacture.

As far as different velocities is concerned, the published data is likely from pressure barrels which are probably longer and newer than yours. A lower velocity in your gun would be no surprise to me. If the load gives your rife a sticky bolt, believe the sign and back off the load.

If you correctly typed the fact that it has a 1/2" throat, I'd say you should be looking for a new barrel. You can find a cheap pull-off from a newer rifle in the desired cart and have it install fairly cheap or you could fork out about 800 for a new stock, custom barrel, and accurizing.

Good Luck

Reloader

I'm with Reloader, if your throat is 1/2", then low velocity wouldn't surprise me, and I would be hunting a new barrel too! I would be really pissed if any of the bullets you tried actually didn't 'hit the target'---if you are sighting in at say 100 yards--- I have never had a gun that the bullets wouldn't at least be on the page.

1/2" throat? That seems quite long.

Likes 150 Btips? So, what's the problem? Great bullet.

Sierras and TSX not hitting target? NOT cool. May just need some extra tuning or seating depth changes but not hitting target at all is very odd.

Depending on what you are using it for, leave the gun alone and use the 150 Btip for whatever (deer size and smaller).

Otherwise, I'd be shopping for a new bbl.

If you'll give us the specs of the load you're using perhaps it will help in untangling the apparent disconnect between the high pressure signs and low velocity.

Are you sure that the sticky bolt lift is a result of high pressure? Are there any other pressure signs, such as extremely flattened or cratered primers, bright marks on the case head, measurable expansion of the case head, or loosened primer pockets? What's the history of the brass? A sticky bolt is sometimes the result of galled bearing surfaces or some other abnormality in the action.

Has the chronograph you're using been "proven" with any know loads (errant screen spacing can make a lot of difference)?

Ok, the load that shot really well with the 150gr Nosler Ballistic Tip:

150 Nosler BT
Win Case
Fed 210M
55gr. H4831SC
MOA Groups
Velocity= 2650fps
NO PRESSURE SIGNS

I loaded the 150gr Sierra's and worked them to a max load of H4831 and they were all over the place and the velocity was about the same as the Nosler's. I saw pressure signs when I reached the Max load in the Sierra book.

Hope that helps, I know I'm lost

You didn't say what brand of the rifle you have, but in general I think Grimulkin is right; older barrels equate to lower velocity and conservative reloading data does too.

However if you feel the throat is too long, I think you'd probably be better (less money spent) to trade the rifle off and buy another rather than rebarreling. I'm sure a 270 would take a moose but I'd use a caliber that punches a bigger hole for blood and one that carries at least 200 to 250 grains.

I personnally feel the long throat and the distance to the lands is not as big of an accuracy item as it's often made out to be and I'm beginning to think that "concentricity or runout" of the bullet (straightness)is more important. Weatherby for years has been well known for long throated chambers and good accuracy.

Good Luck---Good Shooting----Stay Safe

And other thing---
Just in case you haven't done this----
CLEAN the Barrel GOOD.

No telling how the last owner took care of the barrel but with the better cleaning solvents on the market today, you really owe it to yourself and the rifle to give a good cleaning that may solve some of it's inability to shoot different slugs

Check the twist rate, maybe it's something goofy. I would also try 130 or 140gr bullets to see if they act any different...........DJ

Thanks guys for the input.


I cleaned the Barrel with Wipe-out and Cr-10.

The gun is a Parker and Hale 1200 Super.

I haven't checked the twist rate yet but it definately did not like the 130 and 140 gr.TSX.

Bigdog2- This gun was a gift and I was just trying to make it a handy backup/extra deer rifle. My go-to rifle is 300 win mag, but good advice and the moose hunt. Thanks

Assuming it has a scope. Take it off and tighten every screw, including the bases. Then use some LocTite on them. Pull the stock off and make sure everything inside is good. Check the barrel channel for clearance and tighten the screws up good and firm, don't get carried away too tight on these. Check for free float of the barrel. Then: take the bolt out and bore sight it and bag/block the gun so it don't move.
I like to make a heavy black cross mark on the paper to bore sight on. Then you've got line's to tell where things are pointing.

Look thru the scope and see where it's looking. IF not the same place the bore is, adjust it till it is. That should put it on the paper at 25yds.

Next thing, move the target up to 25yds and sand bag it on the bench. Find out where it's hitting up close before shooting even at 50-75yds. IF it won't hit within a couple inches at 25yds, you're sure as hell not gonna hit anything at 100yds!

IF the sights are off, or it's set for shooting high, never know who zeroed it, or when/if it's been dropped in those years. Make sure the barrel is straight too, I've seen a couple that were bent. One by a fall, the other by a rolling horse.

Once you get it to hitting something. Even up close. Shoot 4-5 3 shot groups to make sure the scope isn't bad. I had two go bad a couple yrs ago. One was a 1958 K4 Weaver that never ever missed. Sure as hell started to missing. We'd zero it, then the next groups would be off to some other location. Was never to the same direction either. Scopes may last a long time, but, they can go bad, or get dropped and no one admit to dropping them.

Once it's hitting the same place every shot, then you can move it to 100yds, BUT: use a big sheet of paper/cardboard. Bed & furniture stores will give you a bed sized sheet for the asking most places. Put your first target in the center and shoot about ten shots for group. Once it prove's where it's hitting for sure. THEN you can adjust the zero to where you want it to hit. But, prove it first.

Better load up at least 50 rounds all the same. Don't matter what, just make sure they're all the same. Don't have to be full charge. It's been proven a million times that a grain, or two less than max is more accurate anyway.

You don't drive your car, or truck full throttle all the time do you?? Why would you do the same thing with your guns?????

I'd bet the farm doing it this way you'll discover what's wrong, or what's happening.
Please let us know what you find.

George

quote:

The gun is a Parker and Hale 1200 Super

Hey look... I found your problem right there. Just kidding.
I fell in love with one of these at the store and after 6 months of trying everything to get it to shoot, that love was long gone. I traded it in on something else.
I don't remember it being throated any longer than normal so maybe yours has just plain been shot to the point of retirement

I have had some luck getting worn barrels to shoot by having them rechambered. Have a good gunsmith shorten the barrel from the chamber end as much as possible and rechamber it.