Anyone have a recommendation for spray-on water-proofing material??

Thanks;
Brett

Brett:

It would help if you told us what you are trying to waterproof. i know of quite a few, but most are material-specific.

Dave

I've used Hunt-Dri for several years, works very well and doesn't have the odor of the silicone products.

http://www.staydri.com/products.cfm?product=huntdri

Dave,

It's a cotton canvas bird hunting coat from LL Bean.

Brett

Well if you don't mind changing its appearance you can get a tin of "wax" from Filsons who use it to treat their "oilskin" coats. I have a Filson hunting cap (canvas) and its been treated with it and it is absolutely water proof. Although it makes the fabric darker in color. Go to the Filsons website and look at their "tin coats" and "tin pants" to get an idea of what I'm talking about.
Option "b" treat it with "camp dry" or scotch guard.

Thanks guys!

Snellstrom, how do you use the wax??

Brett

When applying the Filson Oil Finish Wax to my Foul Weather Pants I just spread it evenly as possible to the outside of the pants, then put them in a black plastic bag and set them in the sun for a day and then hang them inside for another day. Such a method could work on your canvas coat, but you would be forever altering it to a different kind of gear, with oil residue present. The Scotchguard would retain the look and feel it now has.

From Filson:
"These instructions are included in an envelope with every small "sample" can of wax:

"HEAVY-USE AREAS CAN BENEFIT FROM OCCASIONAL TOUCH UPS. Filson's famous "Tin" fabric is actually a special cotton duck woven to our own unique specifications. And it is almost indestructible. Our Oil Finish makes this material highly water repellent and yet very breathable and pliable for long comfortable wear."

"Garments made from this fabric are designed to take years of hard wear in stride. However, under extremely heavy use, critical areas of the garment subject to constant abrasion and continual flexing can lose some of their finish, and therefore some of their water repellency. By giving those areas a little extra protection from time to time with Filson's Original Oil Finish Wax, you can maintain water repellency that's as good as the day you bought the garment. Re-proof as often as necessary."

"1. For best results, re-proof in warm conditions. If in sub freezing temperatures, it may be necessary to stand tin in hot water to soften wax." (Instead of standing the tin in hot water to soften it, use a blow dryer or heat gun to melt the wax until it is nearly liquid and then apply small amounts before it cools. NOTE: Our new softer wax formula does not need to be melted.)

"2. Brush all excess dirt from the area to be treated. Wipe clean with a soft cloth and cold water. WARNING: Use clean cold water only. Do not use soap or detergents."

"3. Apply wax generously with a clean cloth. Use light short circular strokes to work wax well into the affected areas--usually seams, creases, and high flex areas."

"4. Use a hairdryer to blow dry evenly over application for a real "factory" finish. Hang garment overnight in a warm place, away from open flame." (The wax cools and hardens quickly, sometimes leaving a visible smear of cooled wax on the surface. Blow-drying the fabric after application melts any excess wax into the fabric, eliminating the tacky surface.)"

Jackfish,

Thanks very much for this. I'm not concerned about the way it looks, so I'm going to try the wax.

Brett