First I would like to say HI. I am new to posting but I have been lurking for a while. I have a pre-64 model 70 in a 270 winchester, that was made about 1954. Last year I took the rings and bases off, I took the action and barrel out of the stock and cleaned every part. After cleaning I reassembled the gun and took it out to shoot. I started to sight the gun in to 3"high at 100 yards. But soon I found out it would shoot one bullet at 2"high then the next at 4"high. There was no pattern as to when and where the next one would hit. All I know was I had one point of aim and two different groups going! I went home and took it apart again and made sure I did every thing right. Then I went back out. It did the same thing. This time I loosened the stock screw in the middel of the barrel. I would shoot two shots and loosen it. After I got the screw about 1 1/2 turns out the groups came together. After that I found that my barrel had LOTS of copper in it. I spent the next week cleaning this bore with Hoppes Benchrest solvent. I had never cleaned with copper solvent and I think the gun had never been cleaned right. I think I got most of the copper out. Now here is the question. What do I do about the forward stock to barrel screw? I am thinking that if i leave it loose the thing will fall out. Should I just take it out? Also this stock has been refinished inside and out. I don't think the stock is showing signs of moisture problems. I am not sure what to do to get this gun to shoot back where it should. I haven't taken it out since I removed the copper. I wanted to see what you all thought about the stock an the forward screw first. Ron
The barrel screw does not usually aid accuracy when too tight. Usually just barely snug when the screwdriver is turned without force puts you in the ball park. Then experoment with from group to group. The screw that goes through the front of the trigger guard near the floor plate release should also not be over tightened. Just screw it down until your floor plate closes without interference. If the barrel channel has had sealer (ie: varnish etc. applied) then it may have created too much forend pressure as a result of finish build up. You might try reducing this pressure by trying shims about the thickness of a business card under the rear action tang and under the front receiver ring. If this improves things then remove the shims and carefully reduce the height of the presure point at the forend of the stock. After a major barrel cleaning don't be surprised if it takes from 5 to 20 shots before the rifle starts to group well again. A lot of barrels prefer a bit of fouling in them and a lot of guys are surprised when their efforts don't produce an immediate improvement. besto.
A friend has the same rifle and he leaves that screw out. I have a .300 H&H with that screw and mine shoots best with the screw tight.
I do the guard screws in a different manner than above. I tighten the front guard screw really tight and the middle screw just snug. The rear screw in the trigger guard is tight but not nearly as tight as the front floor plate screw.
I have several pre-64's including 2 .270's. They all shoot well with the fore end screw tightened. As said earlier, the middle action screw should be just snug, with the outer two, pretty tight. Old Winchesters like pressure, hence the fore end screw. They weren't designed to "float".
A clean barrel is important after a certain amout of build up; not critical till then. The first 2 shots after cleaning are usually flyers.
My thought is that maybe your gun doesn't like the bullets you're using. My model 70's like Hornady 130's, Winchester PSP 130's, and Nosler Partition 130's. They don't do as well with 150's.
Just a comment.
Posts: 27 | Location: Los Altos, CA, USA | Registered: 08 March 2002
I have several pre's and I like to "play" with the forend screw...My 270 with the screw tight shoots about 2 inches...Back it off 2 turns from snug and it will shoot 3/4 inch...Take it clear out and it opens up just a little to about a inch...Play with it a little and I bet you will find a "sweet spot" that your rifle will prefer..
In your case the screw is doing nothing so take it out..I have a number of M-70's and most shoot well without the screw but you need to take the screw recepticle out also. It is in a dovetail on the barrel, so thats no problem...
If it doesn't shoot well then drive over to Filer and sell or trade it to me..I need a pre 64 action...
Thanks for the help guys. I guess one of the things I should have said was the load I was using is a load I have been using for about 10 years in the gun. It is a hand loaded Hornday 140 BTSP @ 3000 fps. The stock was refinished by me about 9 years ago. This gun was shooting 3/4" groups at 100 yards befor I took it apart this last year. I had taken it out of the stock before and never had this happen. I have heard that there is a "sequence" that a person needs to tighten the screws in is this right? Thanks Ron
quote:Originally posted by Idaho Ron: I have heard that there is a "sequence" that a person needs to tighten the screws in is this right? Thanks Ron
I am having the same problem with my 300 mag It was glass bedded before I got it and I will try loosening the middle screw first. Its probably a loading issue in my rifle
When I am shooting conventionally bedded BR or target rifles I loosen the screws off when storing the rifles. When tightening I stand the rifle up and tighten from front to rear. As stated by others the center action screw shouldn't be tight unless the rifle has been glassed in a fashion that enables it's use as a bedding screw. Otherwise it's purpose in life is to hold up the front of the guard. The forend screw is also a problem unless the rifle has been bedded to utilize it. You can use some blue Loctite to keep it from falling out and just put it in loose or do as Ray suggests and just leave it out. Regards, Bill.
