I'm currently battling a 270 win that was given to me and I've currently solved an accuracy problem by free floating the wood stock on the firearm. This has made a mountain of difference in consistency but the accuracy is still around 2".

Before I free floated the barrel I loaded 150gr Ballistic Tips in it with a MAX load of H4831 and on paper I was getting 1"-1 1/4" groups. BUT...the chronograph was telling me that they were only flying around 2600 fps and every other bullet it shot it wouldn't even print on paper they were so bad.

From that point of being completely boggled by this gun I decided to do my first at-home stock work and I had a former stock maker tell me how to go about free floating the barrel.

Now, after the first range test, my 140gr TSX and 150gr Sierra GK are showing promise with the sierra giving me an honest 1 1/2" group and the TSX staying around 2", which before these loads wouldn't hit a 18"X18" piece of paper at 100yds.
There is still a lot to be experimented with but I've stuck with Reloader 22 to keep me atleast on the high end of velocity if that first number from the Nosler BT's start to be a habit.

The rifle has a short mag box and long throat but it does have a 24" barrel, which I think is a plus over a 22", which I find normal in some manufacturers rifles in 270 win, but I can't tamper much with the OAL to keep it close to the lands and grooves.

Another thing is that this rifle HATES 130gr bullets. It'll heave those things like a 2 year old in a lego set.

Just to get some ideas. If you had this problem where would you go with it and why would you decide that with your load or any otehr decision?

Thanks

I'd do more load development. You didn't mention what type of action it is. If its a ruger or winchester,you want the center screw holding the mag box to be firm but not over tight. With the first and third screws being tight. The center screw can cause a warp if its to tight. You should be able to reach in the mag with your finger and freely move the box.

Check the crown also. With a long throat and a 24 inch barrel. You could have a smith take out a few threads and reamer it out again to .270. You'd then know that you had a good chamber and seating bullets with the short mag would be easier.

you sure that scope is ok?

It's a parker and Hale 1200 super. I'm still trying to decide on a rebarrel job but I want to keep the gun as is for now, if I can.

It only has two screws front and rear. It's glass bedded and it has some sort of suedo pillar bedding in it.

Doc- Yeah, I've done enough shooting to believe the scope is ok for now.

I never had any luck with H4831 in the 270

IMR is supposed to be "THE" propellant in the 270 but I never had much luck with that either....

What did work and work supremely well
was RL19 and RL22.

You might also wish to try W760 and AA3100
both of which have worked very well in my brother's Remington 700 in 270Win.

AllanD

I think that you may be using the wrong powder. Try 140 grain Ballistic Tips or Accubonds with about 52 grains and up of IMR 4350.

It is very hard to burn the barrel out of a rifle, but I think I would try to slug the barrel in reverse. That being to try to find a lead bullet of about the right diameter, and send it backwards from the muzzle to the chamber. I did this once with an '06 and about 16" from the crown the slug just fell completely free of the barrel. Needless to say, the barrel was gone, and it is now a custom 7X57 that belongs to my son...

If it won't shoot 130s with about 60 grains of AA3100 and a standard LR primer, I suspect something is very wrong with either the barrel or the stock...

Now that you do have two bullets that the gun shoots okay,try other powders with those bullets.

Sounds like scope or mount trouble to me but what do I know?
If you absolutely positively know your scope is good and you've already free floated it then try a slight amount of fore end pressure with a folded business card, those two things and load development and you should be on your way.
Good luck and check that scope.!

Have you tried an ammonia based solvent like Sweets to ensure the barrel is completely free of copper? Copper fouling is extremely detrimental to accuracy.

You could also try shooting at a longer range to see what happens to your group. You could have a paralax issue. Either way, at this point, I would at least try a different scope just to rule it out of the equasion.

Fire lapping may also be an option. There are a lot of things you can try, but a 2" gun is good enough for hunting.

Moosegun-

The gun has been fire lapped and it gets a treatment of wipe out cleaner with a added Barnes Cr-10 treatment right after just to make sure it's clean.

The only reason I know it not the scope is because I have a sierra 150 GK load that is going 2500fps that will shoot an inch all day long, thats why I ruled out the scope.

Thanks

I think next you should be trying some other powders, but honestly, anything under 2" with a factory barrel is much better than average, at least in my recent experience.

I would try some IMR 4064, IMR 4350, and also RE-22, Sierra's recommended powder. RE-22 is very near the burning rate of the H4831 you've been working with, which may or may not mean anything with regards to your particular rifle, I just note that they mention it as being the most accurate in their test Savage. The Ruger I load for likes IMR 4064 at the opposite (faster) end of the burning rate range for the .270. My brother's Remington liked IMR 4350, right in the middle of the range. The only way to find out is by trying them.

You have obviously found two bullets it likes, so I would stick with them while you are trying other powders. Many individual rifles have a preference for a very narrow range of bullet weights, so I'd take the hint and stay away from the lighter ones in yours at least for now. Interestingly, both rifles mentioned above also like the heavier 140 & 150gr GameKings better than other weights and brands tried.

Intersting problem. I have three rifles chambered to the .270 Win., and only one of them will shoot a 130 gr. bullet worth a damn. I'll discount the Ruger #1 which only likes Sierra gamekings in 150 gr. weight and discuss an FN Mauser imported by Firearms International way back in 1973. The stock was an ugly S.O.B. and the gun gave lousy groups with everything, factory, handloads, you name it, the damn gun just would not shoot. I glass bedded the action and free floated the barrel and then it would put five 130 Sierras into about a half dollar sized group. Not good but usable. A friend of mine's father said all he shot in his .270 were 150 gr. bullets, the Sierra spitzer boattails. They did not call them game Kings back in 1973. I loaded up some Nosler Partitions with surplus 4831 by Hodgden and the 150 gr. Sierras and groups of five shots would stay under a nickel. I had no idea of how fast they shot, but because of the 24" barrel, the estimate was 2800 FPS based on the data for several loading manuals. It wasn't until 1981 after I'd moved to Tucson that I had a chance to run some over a chronograph. Imagine my shock when a five round average turned out to be 2999 FPS and no pressure signs. A few years later when I was able to buy my own chronograph, I again ran five rounds over the machine and the velocity was again 3001 FPS average for the five rounds.
Pressure signs are non-existant, primers nice and round and the load is accurate as hell. The first three shots are usually .50" or a bit less and the next two open the group to about .75 to .85". My rifle has a bit of a long throat, but it doesn't seen to affect the 150 gr. loads any, but is probably why the 130 shoot like crap.
FWIW. Those loads were loaded on 9/27/77, bullet the 150 gr. Nosler Partition, Hodgen's surplus 4831 powder, CCI-250 primer and Winchester brass. IIRC, the bullets were seated out about as far as the magazine would allow.
Theoretically, current Hodgden's 4831 is supposed to have the same burning rate as the surplus. The current Nosler manual only shows 55.0 gr. of H-4831 to be max so maybe the newer stuff is faster burning.
Hope this gives some insight into solving the propblem.
Paul B.

quote:

Originally posted by Magnum61:

The gun has been fire lapped...

This may be the problem. Firelapping can do more harm than good depending on the condition of the bbl at the time you use this procedure. In some instances, the lap is disproportionate from breech to muzzle. This creates asymmetry within the bore. While most of the time, firelapping is safe and effective, it is also a "fast" way to try and establish and evenly distributed lapped bore, which doesn't always occur.

Do you have a bore scope?

ok, the fire lapping was jsut the throat polishing kit from Tubbs. I figured since the throat was so long I'd just use the throat polishing kit and call it god but it still cleaned things up in the barrel.

No I don't have a bore scope.

I would give up at this point and have the barrel set back and re-chamber. This would keep the original appearance if it's index'd right.

Doubless and Sledder both mention some good things.

Slugging the bore from the muzzel may be interesting, and may give more insight. It shouldn't be that hard to find a load that shoots at least close to what you find acceptable. I'd also use a flat base bullet that's the same weight as what you've had the best results with so far. (was it a 150?) The heavier bullet in the 270 isn't a bad thing. Nate