Anyone know a source for some good plans for a box type deer blind? Something like 10 to 15 feet about the ground.

I did a Google search and found quite a few sources, but I thought I'd check here and see if anyone has built one themselves.

Thanks,

Garrett

Here's what you need to make building an elevated box stand a piece of cake.

Vic,

I like it!

That is the kind of info I was looking for.

Thanks,
Garrett

lets see what the rest of the box looks like set up. i've never seen one.

Garrett,

Being a Carpenter for years before getting into the Business side of things taught me how to be pretty handy w/ wood structures and I've built more deerstands than I care to recall. That said, there's just so many ways to skin a cat.

How are you wanting this blind to turn out for starters?

You wanting something that will last a lifetime? 20 years? 5 years?......

You want it insulated?

Windows? Shelving?

You want the whole thing built and transported in one piece or are you going for the Prefabricated type that can be assembled in the field?

Metal? Wood?

There's just so many different materials on the market that can be used.


My main goals when building a stand is function and Sound. I want it to be as quiet as possible and very user friendly. For those reasons I mainly go w/ Treated wood, insulation, carpeting, and Plexy Glass windows if windows are a must.

I've built several Boxes for other people in our family and just a few for myself because I mainly like to hunt from lock-ons and Climbers.

If you'd like some suggestions based on some of the stands we have, I'd be glad to give you a few ideas.

I'd also like to add that it can get very expensive depending on what you want.

Good Luck

Reloader

quote:

Originally posted by Reloader:

I'd also like to add that it can get very expensive depending on what you want.

Good Luck

Reloader

That's no bull! As simple as a 4x4 foot box looks, it's astounding what the materials alone can cost. Five sheets of plywood (one for each wall and another for the floor and roof) will run you the better part of $100 or more in these post-Katrina days. The last one I built, I was appaled when I had it nearly complete except for some closer hardware. The picky little slide bolts and latches cost me nearly forty dollars. Figure a couple or three hundred just for the box, and that doesn't include the tower you set it on. . . . . and, you can easily invest the better part of a week in building, painting, and setting it in place.

The bottom line is that it's a big bottom line.

Of course, if you can steal your materials, it helps with the costs.

Garrett,
As a follow-up to my earlier post, here are some plans that might help you. I would think the elevators should work with this plan as well.
Good luck!

quote:

Originally posted by Spring:
Garrett,
As a follow-up to my earlier post, here are some plans that might help you. I would think the elevators should work with this plan as well.
Good luck!

If you have any chance of snow and ice I would suggest sloping the roof away from the ladder. Trust me on this.

. . . . and, sloping the roof away from the ladder allows the entrace door to be taller. The plans show a five foot high box. There are no materials savings in making it short, so go ahead and make it 6+ feet in order to be able to stand up without banging your head.

Thanks guys for the input.

The plans Vic shows look pretty close to what I am seeking.

Once built (and painted), I would like to get 5 or more years out it.

Here's a question: I realize the stand is built in 2 parts, and then the 4X4 legs added, secured, and the stand raised up. Can it be pushed upright by 2 or 3 men, or do I need something like a backhoe, with the arm raised to pull it to the standing position?

Thanks,

Garrett

Garrett,
Why not just build the base and then construct the enclosure up on top of that? It might be tough to build it in two pieces and then get it up there....

quote:

. . . and, sloping the roof away from the ladder allows the entrace door to be taller. The plans show a five foot high box. There are no materials savings in making it short, so go ahead and make it 6+ feet in order to be able to stand up without banging your head.

True, and being a 6'-3" fella myself, it's much nicer to have alittle space.

The Drawing above is like some of the stands we have. I would suggest making the windows only 2' wide to allow good concealment of your movement and 18" wide works well if you intend on installing flip-up Plexy glass windows. If you like the windows that slide side to side in a track, you may want to go w/ 16" wide so you can slide them either way. The width of the windows also comes into play depending on the width of the area you intend to watch. If you are just on a sendero or right-of-way, you only need a small opening each way.

We also install stairs on some of ours for the older folks and heck, it's pretty nice for the younger ones too.

Garrett, If you're only wanting 5 years out of it, untreated wood would work fine but, it only cost just a tad more to build w/ the treated wood so, why not. A treated stand will last 20 years easily. I've got one that just hit 20 and she's still going strong, not in the best shape but still going and it will easily hold two adult hunters at one time.

As far as standing the blind up in the field, Spring is right, it's much easier to just build it on the platform if it's a difficult spot to get to w/ a tractor or truck but, I must caution you it is pretty dangerous.

When doing a prefab job that will be assembled in the field, I like to build my blind on flat concrete if possible and I just barely tack the sides to gether so you can disassemble later. I like to put my 2x4 frames on 2 sides opposite each other (Front and Back w/ the door). I fully assemble those two sides. Then for the left and right I just cut the plywood to the proper demensions and tack them to the other sides to ensure a good fit and to also get measurements for my other 2xs for those two sides that will be installed in the field.

I then build my platform in one piece already braced and the floor installed. 2x4's are perfectly suitable as legs as long as you brace properly, most of our older stands were built on 2xs. Also build the ladder or stairs.

I disassemble the box into 5 pieces and load it, the platform and all my tools and sackcrete on the trailer.

Once I get to where we want it we stand up the platform (Just a couple of guys can stand up a 14' platform made from 2xs) then, we set it right where we want it and mark the legs ( Spray Paint works). We scoot the stand over and dig the holes the proper depth where we marked w/ paint. Once you have the holes dug make sure they are level from bottom to bottom. Then drop in the legs, make sure she's level and pour the sackcrete to her. I usually brace the platform off w/ some kickers just to help hold it while we are working on the top and the crete is dryin'. Now the Dangerous part, I climb up on the plat form, pull up my sides w/ a rope(one side at a time the two w/ the 2xs first and second) nail each side to the floor well through the bottom plate. Then, place the two plywood sides on (This requires a nice ladder and a buddy to nail it while you hold it from the inside. Installing the roof is where it gets hairy. You can just screw up through it from the bottom or get a good long extension ladder and nail it down from the top.

You need over hang on the roof to keep out water. You can either make the box a couple inches less than 4' and just use treated plywood or you can put some roll roofing on the 4x4 piecse that fits flush and let it hang over a couple of inches on each side. I have used tin on several but, I just hate it because when it rains it sounds like you are sitting in a drum.

We only do prefab jobs like the one I mentioned above when the place is too difficult to get a truck to easily. If you can get a truck or tractor there easily, it's much easier to just build it whole and finished at the house and stand it up w/ a winch, backhoe, or alot of hands.

Once you've got her in place, you can install the ladder and start finishing out the inside (Insulation, Carpet, Windows, etc etc).

Good Luck

Reloader

You may also want to flare out the legs for more stability. It makes things more difficult to cut and what not but it will give your stand a better footing.

I like a 1'-1.5' wider stance at the bottom (ie 4' square at the top and 5'-5.5' square at the bottom)

Reloader

You may just find it a whole lot easier to just buy a Box Blind Kit from Bass Pro or Cabelas that has good directions and all you need is plywood.

Good Luck

Reloader

Flaring the legs is no problem, Just drill a 1/2" hole thru the bottom 1/3 of your base board. I use 2x6's for the base. Then drill the same hole thru the top of the 4x4 and use a 10" 3/8" bolt to secure them. Leave it loose until you spread the legs and attach the side boards.
We spread the legs using 8' 2x4's 18" up from the bottom. Makes them real stable, we have 20 of them up right now in eastern NC and have never had one blown down. The other guys that don't spread the legs have theirs on the groung all the time. I have complete plans and pics I can email if you want.

To put them up we assemble everything on the ground and pull them up with a tractor or 4x4 or even a quad. Larger vechicule makes easier though, or use a winch off a quad. trick is to use a fulcrum pole, they will stand right up. We use 16' 4x4's for the legs.

have the door open inwards at the top of the ladder and it is much easier to get in it.

Wayne

Just had to re-erect two blinds on our lease that blew down in a bad thunderstorm the first week of the season. After we got the cactus, mesquite, and other thorny stuff cleared away from the grounded blind, we jacked it up enough that when we began to pull it upright with a 4wd in lo-range reverse, it would pivot upright instead of scooting along the ground. Had one guy on a rope tied off from the opposite side of the vehicle to belay it, and when the blind was within 10 degrees of vertical, stopped the truck, walked to the blind, and simply put my foot on the bottom cross brace and raised it the rest of the way. Then we put in new guy wires--on all 4 corners.

Reloader's method is the way to go. However pick a day when there is no wind to assemble the box on the base. Fooling around with a plywood panel when you are fifteen feet above the ground can get very tricky if there is a sudden gust of wind.

Montana,

Could you email a set of your plams to me?

Thanks!

Snapper