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| One of Us |
I have a 24 (222/20) that I have had for some time. I bought it used and never payed much attention to the scope. I recently removed it with intentions of adding loctite to the screws. When I replaced it on the barrel, I noticed that there is a difference in the height from front to back. I tried the soda can shims, but this looks to be a lot more than one or two. When I put enough shim in, the screws were too short. Without the shims, when n I put my steel leveling rod in the rings, it's not level. The gun used to shoot pretty well, but...my confidence is shaken. Any ideas about what I've done wrong? Work hard and be nice, you never have enough time or friends. | ||
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One of Us |
I've got a Savage 24v Series B in 222/20 & did not have nay issue in mounting a BSA scope with overunder mounts. My gun is one of my favorite (my truck gun), just the other day a friend of mine was stunded as I smoked a crow at just over 200 yards. | |||
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| One of Us |
What base are you using on your Savage 24? IIRC, the really early 24Vs in 222/20 required a 2-piece set of base. My 4 newer 24Vs have 1-piece Weaver #74 bases on them and I can't say that I've noticed that 1 end was higher than the other. I don't own a Savage 24F, if that is the model that you have, so I can't comment on them. My 24Vs shoot the 1st shot from a cold barrel pretty close to the POA, but subseqent shots from a warm barrel can go almost anywhere in a 6" circle. I keep a 24V in 223/20 in my hunting truck, a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee, all the time and have knocked off the occassional coyote and badger with it. Jeff | |||
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| one of us |
I guess my naive question would be, was it shooting all right before you took the scope off? Mine has worked all right with a Weaver #74. Longer screws are not so hard to come by, and can be shortened to perfection with a Dremel tool. TomP Our country, right or wrong. When right, to be kept right, when wrong to be put right. Carl Schurz (1829 - 1906) | |||
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You might try reversing the mounts and see if it makes a difference...Rusty. | |||
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Thanks guys. Yes, it did shoot OK before I messed with it. OK means first shot off sticks or bags, with reciever supported went where you aimed, the rest moved some as it heated up. This is OK for the hunting I do with it. But I just can't see to let things alone, so even though I was sure it was the barrel moving around, I decided to check the mounting. It still shoots OK, it just bothers me to not have things just so. The other problem I'm having with it is with auximllary cartridges. I use them in a bunch of different rifles, just to mess around. In this one it is to shoot 22 mag and 22wrf's for small game. Because of the rebounding hammer, I can't seem to get enough power into the firing pin to make them go off. Anybody ever get a stronger spring for the hammer. It works fine for the regular cartidges. Work hard and be nice, you never have enough time or friends. | |||
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I've never taken the hammer out, not sure about the springs. I have quick-detach mounts on the Weaver 74 base, and changed the mid-barrel sight to a peep. The barrel is just as you describe, first two shots are consistent but then starts shooting low. Not a benchrest rig, but a fine weapon of convenience for antelope, sage grouse, and sneakable ducks. TomP Our country, right or wrong. When right, to be kept right, when wrong to be put right. Carl Schurz (1829 - 1906) | |||
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| One of Us |
The best article on the Savage 24s that I have seen is by Marshall Stanton at www.beartoothbullets.com. Jeff | |||
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If you have any business taking the hammer out.. you should be able to do so.  They can be a pain and you have to fight them, but it's not so bad. I've played with making them lighter, but never heavier. Are you sure it's not just a headspace problem? "He who has it, would do well to have it as if he did not have it." http://www.Savage24.com .45 Throats for Pete's sake. http://www.cylindersmith.com | |||
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