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I've been looking at a drilling that has some pitting on the barrel and frame. This is a light field gun that seems to be built to use here in the East for hunting deer, turkeys and small game. It is not a collect. For me, there's a story in the marks on guns and would probably never get the pits repaired. Besides, it's a lot easier to take my old, beat up Browning out in the rain, than my restored Philly Fox. It rains a lot here in November and December. Over the years, I've seen a number of other old drillings and combos that had some serious acne scars. Given the specialty of working on these guns, I've often wondered, what it would be involved to fix pitting on one of these guns? Are the costs and time to get pits repaired pretty outrageous for this kind of work? What are the pitfalls? Thanks Bfly Work hard and be nice, you never have enough time or friends. | ||
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| One of Us |
Been through the same thought process with a little William Jeffrey 410 side by side non ejector. Barrels are pretty pitted and not that pretty to look at on the inside. In good condition these are making £1,500 to £2,500. I paid £50, but it was loose on the frame as well. I had it rejointed (cost £300) by phil smith at boards who knows a thing or two about barrels. If had been lightly pitted he would have just run a lap / polish and reproof, but in his view pits are little too deep and you would reduce the wall thickness too much by polishing them out. His advice - keep it well scrubbed after shooting, but just enjoy it. One day I will have the barrels sleeved, but current cost is £1000 give or take, and depends on who is doing it. With a combo I would polishing out small pits is no different to an ordinary shotgun. If pits are on the outside these can be filled in with tig welding and then restruck. If it's the rifle barrel the pressures are much higher. You can probably get away with a bit of frosting in the bore provided the last few inches of the barrel and In particular make sure the crown is good - most critical for accuracy. You could sleeve in a new barrel or indeed line the barrel with a small calibre ( 22 hornet) liner. Also think about an Einstecklauf for shotgun barrel. Could give you an accurate rifle if one of the shot barrels is pitted. Most important though is the action still tight and not loose on the face. Putting it back on face is not that big a job for a good smith. | |||
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Thanks, I thought that was the repair technique for those external pits. I've never had any bores bad enough to need relined and have stayed away from any shotgun barrel that's been smoothed out inside. For me anymore, not only is the money getting a bit harder to find to pour into these projects, it's as much the time it takes to have work done that really stops me from many new projects. When work takes a year or more, we talking about a meausrable percentage of my remaining hunting years that a gun needs to sit out. I have two in process at gunsmiths right now, and two more that need to head off for restorative work. Luckily I wasted my gun money on a pair of new hearing aids insteadof buying another drilling. Bfly Work hard and be nice, you never have enough time or friends. | |||
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Nigel Teague of Precision Chokes has developed and patented a method of relining shotgun barrels. Which allows the orginal barrels to be used. I doubt if the process is cheap but I understand that its certainly cheaper than conventional sleeving. | |||
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I read somewhere that Teague has stopped doing the relining. Quick, Cheap, or Good: Pick Two | |||
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