Anyone hea4d of one of these? Little info on the internet. Parent case, fps, ect. Thanks, Optik1

It looks real close to a 358 Norma, which is an awesome round. But I wouldn't want to have to find dies for the Wade.

Yes to both.This gun comes with dies but I am concerned about forming brass, never did that. Optik1

You should be set then. Forming brass is easy as long as it is close to the brass you are using. According to this it looks like a simple neck up of 338 Win mag brass and a shoulder bump. A little lube in the right places and it should be a one stroke proposition. Or even better yet use 358 Norma brass.

With that wildcat it is also a good idea to make a chamber cast like the guy in the link did. Because you will need to know the proper trim length for your chamber. A case too long for the chamber is very dangerous.

Getting the dies with a rifle like that is the way it should be as it doesnt seem much good without them.

When I am forming brass I like to use an RCBS lube pad. I will place a little line of lube on the pad and then roll the case so it lubes a bit close to the base of the case. Then I will kind of scuff the end of the neck to get just a tad of lube inside the neck. You do NOT want to over lube the shoulder. Most of the time I dont lube the shoulder at all. That causes problems with dents and dings. But if you put it in the right places, just a vary light bit, then resizing is a breeze with a good press.

I've found Redding Imperial sizing wax to be invaluable when case forming.

Forgive me if this too obvious but it seems to me the main part near the neck that needs to be lubricated is inside the shoulder, to ease the exit of the expander ball. For this I drape a bit of lubricated rag over a flat or oval-head screw exposed half an inch from the bench, and rub the shoulder around it.

Failure to attend to this not only affects the brass but can wear down the expander ball. The one on my 338WM die got worn down to a point where a sized case no longer fits easily over the correct case-trimmer pilot.

quote:

Originally posted by sambarman338:
Forgive me if this too obvious but it seems to me the main part near the neck that needs to be lubricated is inside the shoulder, to ease the exit of the expander ball. For this I drape a bit of lubricated rag over a flat or oval-head screw exposed half an inch from the bench, and rub the shoulder around it.

Failure to attend to this not only affects the brass but can wear down the expander ball. The one on my 338WM die got worn down to a point where a sized case no longer fits easily over the correct case-trimmer pilot.

Wow . . . I never cease to be amazed at what I can learn here!

quote:

Originally posted by sambarman338:
Forgive me if this too obvious but it seems to me the main part near the neck that needs to be lubricated is inside the shoulder, to ease the exit of the expander ball. For this I drape a bit of lubricated rag over a flat or oval-head screw exposed half an inch from the bench, and rub the shoulder around it.

Failure to attend to this not only affects the brass but can wear down the expander ball. The one on my 338WM die got worn down to a point where a sized case no longer fits easily over the correct case-trimmer pilot.

That is why I scuff a little oil from my lube pad on the end, inside. Real easy. The expander spreads it on the way in and also lubes the expander itself. It doesnt take much lube at all to make a big difference.

quote:

Originally posted by B L O'Connor:

quote:

Originally posted by sambarman338:
Forgive me if this too obvious but it seems to me the main part near the neck that needs to be lubricated is inside the shoulder, to ease the exit of the expander ball. For this I drape a bit of lubricated rag over a flat or oval-head screw exposed half an inch from the bench, and rub the shoulder around it.

Failure to attend to this not only affects the brass but can wear down the expander ball. The one on my 338WM die got worn down to a point where a sized case no longer fits easily over the correct case-trimmer pilot.

Wow . . . I never cease to be amazed at what I can learn here!

I thought you'd be more forgiving, BL

So, does everyone other than Wstrnhuntr lubricate the inside shoulder that way?

I reckon so Sambarman.

I just formed some 6.5-06 from 30-06 a couple days ago. No q-tip, no problem.

I guess great minds think alike

Wow, thank you all the the great input. I am hoping this will be fairly straight forward. Optik1

I use a cleaning mop with a small smear of lanolin inside the case neck.
I just grab a handful of cases and give them a poke.
it all comes off when I tumble to remove the case lube.

I dont care to have any oil based lube on the inside of my cases. I use powdered graphite applied with a Q-tip

quote:

Originally posted by snowman:
I dont care to have any oil based lube on the inside of my cases. I use powdered graphite applied with a Q-tip

A wise policy. Powder contamination is not a good thing. Nothing a sonic cleaning cant alleviate though.

quote:

Originally posted by snowman:
I dont care to have any oil based lube on the inside of my cases. I use powdered graphite applied with a Q-tip

Same for me only I use a small soft bristle makeup brush with Imperial case mouth lube (just fine graphite). The brush works on 22 to 404+ calibre case necks and does 4 or 5 cases before a redip into the graphite and flick with finger to shake the loose lube back into tin. No need to clean inside case after sizing as no potential for powder or primer contamination.

I guess oil in the case could be a problem. I don't like leaving the outsides greasy, either, thinking that it could increase backthrust. Not owning a tumbler, I wash the cases in Shellite (white gas) after sizing and let them dry overnight.

quote:

Originally posted by sambarman338:
I guess oil in the case could be a problem. I don't like leaving the outsides greasy, either, thinking that it could increase backthrust. Not owning a tumbler, I wash the cases in Shellite (white gas) after sizing and let them dry overnight.

Shellite is good for degreasing cases after sizing, it gives the brass a nice shine too. I just crumple up a paper towel holding it over the open shellite bottle inverting the bottle until the towel is damp. Five or six cases at a time rolled in the folded towel between the hands does the trick. Replace the towel every so often after it tears or becomes dirty.
Cases are dry in seconds after dumping from the paper towel, no need to wait before reloading. Because I use graphite for lubing inside the neck I have no need to clean the inside of the cases.

For dirty or tarnished cases I dump into a citric acid solution (teaspoon full into about a 500mls warm water). Give the cases a roll round in the solution then rinse in hot water and allow to dry. The citric acid works almost instantly to clean the cases. I've even cleaned tarnished brass heads of shotshells by swishing the heads in a citric acid solution and rinsing off.

I've got some citric acid. One of my greenie daughters put me on to it for some high-minded purpose I now forget. Might give it a try.

Ackley lists a Wade Super 7mm, which is based on a highly modified 348 Win case (rimmed case).

Back in the day when there weren’t many cases to play with, experimenters turned to the 348 case and several experimenters turned up similar versions in various calibres.

These experiments were the forerunners of Winchester’s WSM range of cartridges. These days if you wanted a similar cartridge for a short action you’d build a 35/300 WSM.

Locally the 35 WSM had some popularity and was called the 35 Sambar by a local smith. It was simply the 300 WSM opened up to 35 cal.

quote:

Originally posted by sambarman338:
I've got some citric acid. One of my greenie daughters put me on to it for some high-minded purpose I now forget. Might give it a try.

Citri acid is an excellent cleaner/degreaser often used in the aerospace industry but it can leave a tiny amount of residue. You might want to experiment a little. The only way to know is try.