Bought my first old english rifle. Its a Jeffery 9.3x62. I saw the rifle at auction and, thanks to an AR referral, was able to connect with the gentleman that has Jeffery’s record books. I learned it was completed in April of 1924, was originally chambered in .318, and sold for thirteen pounds and fifteen shillings - I paid a bit more than that!

Before I shoot it, I want to make sure I’m not going to hurt myself or the rifle. I don’t have experience with older firearms such as this one and wanted to ask the collective wisdom of AR for some advice as it has been great help in the past.

I’m thinking I’d like to send it to a smith with experience working on these type of rifles and have him check it out and insure all is good. I know Reto Buehler represents Jeffery in the states, but think he only works on new builds and I know his current backlog is approx two years. Wondering if anyone knows of a tier one gunsmith that knows his way this type of rifle? Or, should i just send to a good gunsmith, don't worry about specific knowledge?

In terms of loads for it, not sure if I can/should use factory 9.3x62 from today or if I should have some lower pressure loads made to start, or maybe for ongoing usage? Would appreciate any opinions on this - the original proof marks are for the 318 and not the 9.3x62 but the rifle looks to be in very good condition. That said, really want to make sure I’m not going to get hurt using it.

Appreciate any insights you all can provide. I think the caliber is great and, assuming I can shoot an effective load with reasonable accuracy, would be great to take this rifle to Africa for a plains game hunt.

Thanks.

Any decent smith can do a chamber cast and slug the bore to insure it is a true 9.3.
Other than that, if a 9.3X62 chambers, there is little risk involved in trying factory ammo as the rebore and rechamber do not open up the original 318 specs to a huge degree. If it was redone in England there will be reproofing marks as well which is comforting.
I think you got a good buy. Put in a half hearted bid myself hoping it went unnoticed but lost it.
Please post some pictures when it comes so I can duly kick myself.

Do I glean that you are a little worried about the recoil, too? While the 9.3 is not a hard kicker, it could give you a flinch if you let it boot you around at the range too much.

If you have big game to hunt that requires it, get an experienced friend to sight it in for you. Then, when you test it yourself, wear a heavy coat with some kind of squishy pad in the shoulder and stand up, maybe leaning against a range veranda post for support.

You won't feel any recoil when you shoot at serious game - but if you've developed a flinch at the range, you might then flinch in the field without knowing it.

Those were good rifles and if the rebore job was done by a competent smith, the barrel should have enough steel in it.

You should be able to use standard loads in it. PM me with your email and I'll send you some old articles and loads.

BTW, please post photos of the rilfe so we can all droool over it!

Thanks very much guys.

I'm not worried about recoil, as I have a .375 that I enjoy shooting. However, this is my first rifle with the lower comb height, be interested to see how that feels.

Thanks for the advice on the chamber cast and slugging the bore.

My main concern is my personal safety - don't want a chamber blowing up in my face and secondarily, that I load the rifle to its potential. Any reason I could/should not use copper bullets?

Would appreciate any recommendations on a smith that likes working on these types of rifles.

Thanks again

If it was a .318 but is now a 9.3x62 it was either rebored or rebarreled. I suggest you take it to any competent gunsmith to check the head-spacing, bore, and chamber. If he gives the rifle a good bill of health you can shoot factory ammo in it. You would hardly need a custom load if factory ammunition gives you the kind of performance you need. You will never know till you try.

Low comb will boot like a bazooka! I got my cheek belted with my Pre 1912 Simson in 9.3X62 before I restocked it with a replica Oberndorf slab sided stock but with a higher comb.

The chamber will not blow up. the main concern is if the rebore & rechamber job was done right and your headspace is ok.

The M98 is one of the safest action and any case rupture will divert the hot gases away from your face.

I would start with 286 gr bullets (Privi Parizan is cheap) and around 55 gr of Varget. Go up to 60 gr max. Use a Chronograph - start at around 2200 fps and stop at around 2500 fps with that powder.

Please use the usual precautions to check for high pressures. My pet trick is to use just 3 or 4 new or once fired cases for the trials and check for primer pocket reseating. as long the primer reseat FIRMLY after 4 or 5 reloads, you are within limits of max pressure.

Thanks guys - really appreciate the insights.

I see you want to start reloading. It is not difficult and really enjoyable if you have the desire and the patience.

I would suggest you start with the Lyman manual and read the early chapters twice. Just stick to the one book for the first year.

If it was originally a .318 WR. then it should be an intermediate Obendorf single square bridge action and capable of any of todays pressures. If its a Jefferys then its still a strong Mauser action....

Sounds like a great rifle..I would start at 56 grs and work up to shoot 58 grs. of RL-15 with ta 286 Nosler..Should be a walk in the park.

I wouldn't worry about the low comb, properly done you can use it with a scope or with the iron sights it was designed to be used with..I have shot a ton of those old British rifles and never felt uneasy with them, scoped or irons..I shot the old low comb mod. 70s for years before the added comb height after the scope sight became popular..The human body can make stock adjustments pretty darn quick, if you will just put what you've read behind you..Same with the old mauser triggers, learn to use them and your shooting won't suffer..

Thanks very much Ray - appreciate the insights.

The RWS 250 grs KS bullet load is usually extremely accurate.

Lapua´s 286 grs Mega was also extremely accurate, but nothing for shooting past 200m because of the blunt tip.

First tests with lead free Barnes TTSX ( as loaded by Blaser Ammo ) show acceptable accuracy.

All this from a ~ 21 - 22" CZ 550 Stutzen.

Hermann

Please be sure and have the bore slugged, sending a .366 bullet down a .318 could be disasterous at best.

It could well be a a .318 wildcat, a 318 WR necked up to .366 or it could be rebored and rechambered to a 9.3x62 or 64..so be sure before you shoot it what you have otherwise it could be splinters and metal fragments in your face. It will take a good smith about 20 minutes to determine whatcha got.

Rifle is at the smiths - have the bore slugged and the chamber cast. Looking forward to shooting it!

We would all love to see pics of this rifle. Pretty please with sugar on top?
Matt