Gentlemen,

After all the help I've had on here I thought I ought to check one or two points on preparing a wood and blue rifle for use in bad weather.

I don't believe in owning a rifle and not taking it hunting, it cheapens a rifle to deny it the opportunity become a sort of totem to hunts it's been on.

I think I've got the wet weather protection finally cracked after 3 years on our spectacularly wet Island.

The metal work has been completely cleaned, degreased and wiped over with multiple applications of Eezox as described on this thread..

I have taken the stock off, checked it over for cracks and re-oiled it inside and out.

Do I need to do anything else for a very cold ( down to about -20/30C temperatures) and quite probably wet hunt?

with thanks,

Amir

All i would tell you is to make sure there is no oil or lubricant in the bolt and trigger group.
I usually put on several coats of carnauba wax on the wood and metal.
It is the only thing I have found that looks slippery but when wet is not.

Crap Ghubert, from the header I thought you were getting ready for zombie season.

quote:

Originally posted by tiggertate:
Crap Ghubert, from the header I thought you were getting ready for zombie season.

No such luck.

quote:

..... make sure there is no oil or lubricant in the bolt and trigger group ......
put on several coats of carnauba wax on the wood and metal.

Excellent advice.

Maybe a muzzle protecter outa black electrical tape.

quote:

Originally posted by plainsman456:
All i would tell you is to make sure there is no oil or lubricant in the bolt and trigger group.
I usually put on several coats of carnauba wax on the wood and metal.
It is the only thing I have found that looks slippery but when wet is not.

Thanks Plainsman, This was the reason I degreased the rifle and used Eezox as it's a dry film lube and rust preventative.

I'll look into the carnaubra wax, is there a trade name for it?

quote:

Originally posted by Gerry:

quote:

..... make sure there is no oil or lubricant in the bolt and trigger group ......
put on several coats of carnauba wax on the wood and metal.

Excellent advice.

Maybe a muzzle protecter outa black electrical tape.

Thanks Gerry, I remembered your advice about the muzzle protector after I posted the above.

quote:

Originally posted by plainsman456:
All i would tell you is to make sure there is no oil or lubricant in the bolt and trigger group.
I usually put on several coats of carnauba wax on the wood and metal.
It is the only thing I have found that looks slippery but when wet is not.

Slight side-track: On a Remington 700, run the bolt/fireing pin/spring totally dry? Or use Kroil or some other ultralight oil?

Use a "dry" lubricant v. a "wet" one. EEZOX is a dry lubricant as are the Sentry Solutions products. Any wet lubricant will be problematic in freezing weather or in sandy/dusty conditions, whereas dry lubricants are not an issue.

Within the past year I have switched from wet lubricants to dry lubricants for final use on all my firearms. Still may use up the wet ones, of which I have many, in the cleaning process but the final coatings are all now done with the Sentry Solutions products or EEZOX. This is the only way that makes sense to me now.

If I may share a little story about a hunt in the Missouri breaks in Montana a few years ago.We were camped close to another group of hunters and one of their group was showing us his brand new rifle and boasting how smooth the action was . He showed us the target he had shot while sighting it in and boasted how quickly he was going to put an elk on the ground. Anyone who has hunted the "breaks" knows it is usually very dry and that "dobbie" dust is constantly stirred up and the wind blows everyday. I suspect our friend with the new rifle had it well oiled up to protect it and after a couple days he had so much dirt stuck in that smooth action he could barely work the bolt. No amount of wiping would get that grit out. Thought he was going to cry when we washed his barreled action in gas to clean the oil and grit off. Two things don't over lube as several have already mentioned and use a rifle that will tolerate a bit of dirt. My money goes with a Mauser 98 action. Also rather that tape over the end of the barrel ,go to the local drug store. They have little latex protectors that are meant to keep a bandage on the end of a finger clean and dry. Yes they look just like a miniature rubber. They are cheap and stay on the barrel better than tape.

I degrease all my rifles during hunting season, grease freezes sometimes and it collects grit so shooting them dry works for me and no damage occurs...I also take a can of Johnsons wax for the outside the rain and snow, and some electricians tape for the crown, and just shoot thru that. Run a dry boresnake thou it each evening after a hunt is recommended..

Thanks chaps.

I shouldn't worry about the eezox freezing then?

Getting quite excited about the Moose, only five weeks to go!

Waterproofing a stock inside and out requires a waterproof finish not oil .Perhaps polyurethane ?

You'll love moose hunting when it goes down in 3' of ice cold water and you have to dress it out !!

Ghubert I don't have any brand name for the wax,I have been using the same old can I found in an old auto parts store about 20 years ago.
All I know about it is on the can it says neutral color and good for wood floors,Johnson wax made it I think.

I live in alaska and the conditions are about as bad as you can get. I hunt anywhere from the salt water for spring bear. Sheep hunting in the mountains in snow and rain. Moose hunting and caribou it always runs all moose hunting. Were we go we have no other option, but to camp it out and endure the elements. In the salt it can really raise hell on a rifle. All of my hunting rifles are either stainless synthetic stocks or cerakote with synthetic stocks. To be honest I think that the cerakote is the best stuff ever. Even if my rifle is stainless I will still get it cerakoted. My rifles are an investment so I have to take care of them and cerakote just makes it a little easier.

If I lived and hunted where Woodelf describes then I would take his advise. However I live in Idaho and I do hunt in snow and rain on ocassion, but I don't remain in it all that long and I don't mind cleaning a rifle at night in a my warm wall tent. we do have a small 8x10 tent for our guns and saddles etc so that scoped don't fog.

Amir

Where are you planning to hunt?

Some thoughts

I would also waer proof the wood under the recoil pad & the guard screws. It is amazing how much a rifle can change point of impact when the wood absorbes water.

I would also look at glass bedding the action and free floating the barrel to avoid wood conatact in cast the wood does move in cold or hot weather.

I would also make sure that the sling is appropriate for the weather and does not have any old leather parts that could become brittle and break etc.

Yes Eezox is king! I would take a can with me (or break free) & use it for daily rub down of the metal & swab the bore. I suppose wet cold is not a big issue for rusting of a rifle but I remember that in India the shotguns would start rusting in 4 or 5 hours in that humidity and heat.

quote:

Originally posted by Ghubert:
Gentlemen,

After all the help I've had on here I thought I ought to check one or two points on preparing a wood and blue rifle for use in bad weather.

I don't believe in owning a rifle and not taking it hunting, it cheapens a rifle to deny it the opportunity become a sort of totem to hunts it's been on.

I think I've got the wet weather protection finally cracked after 3 years on our spectacularly wet Island.

The metal work has been completely cleaned, degreased and wiped over with multiple applications of Eezox as described on this thread..

I have taken the stock off, checked it over for cracks and re-oiled it inside and out.

Do I need to do anything else for a very cold ( down to about -20/30C temperatures) and quite probably wet hunt?

with thanks,

Amir

Amir,

where are you getting deep cold -20 to 30c° and wet in the same time ? just to get an idea.

all the best.

quote:

Originally posted by mete:
Waterproofing a stock inside and out requires a waterproof finish not oil .Perhaps polyurethane ?

You'll love moose hunting when it goes down in 3' of ice cold water and you have to dress it out !!

Oil is good enough for a week isn't it?

I hear you about the extraction, red deer on clearfell are bad enough.

I will attempt to pay someone to do it the first instance I think!

quote:

Originally posted by plainsman456:
Ghubert I don't have any brand name for the wax,I have been using the same old can I found in an old auto parts store about 20 years ago.
All I know about it is on the can it says neutral color and good for wood floors,Johnson wax made it I think.

Thanks Palinsman, I thought I'd recognised it from car wax.

quote:

Originally posted by woodelf:
I live in alaska and the conditions are about as bad as you can get. I hunt anywhere from the salt water for spring bear. Sheep hunting in the mountains in snow and rain. Moose hunting and caribou it always runs all moose hunting. Were we go we have no other option, but to camp it out and endure the elements. In the salt it can really raise hell on a rifle. All of my hunting rifles are either stainless synthetic stocks or cerakote with synthetic stocks. To be honest I think that the cerakote is the best stuff ever. Even if my rifle is stainless I will still get it cerakoted. My rifles are an investment so I have to take care of them and cerakote just makes it a little easier.

Thanks for the information Woddelf.

I think If hunted where you are day in, day out I would also have the same sort of guns as there's nothing worse than watching a gun rust to death over a season.

For a week in the bad stuff I'm hoping I'll be able to protect my wood and blue rifle enough so that at worst she'll only get some more "character", if you know what I mean.

A friend has a beautiful Blaser K95 I was planning to buy from him bead blasted and cerekoted, don't talk to me about cerakote....

quote:

Originally posted by Nakihunter:
Amir

Where are you planning to hunt?

Some thoughts

I would also waer proof the wood under the recoil pad & the guard screws. It is amazing how much a rifle can change point of impact when the wood absorbes water.

I would also look at glass bedding the action and free floating the barrel to avoid wood conatact in cast the wood does move in cold or hot weather.

I would also make sure that the sling is appropriate for the weather and does not have any old leather parts that could become brittle and break etc.

Yes Eezox is king! I would take a can with me (or break free) & use it for daily rub down of the metal & swab the bore. I suppose wet cold is not a big issue for rusting of a rifle but I remember that in India the shotguns would start rusting in 4 or 5 hours in that humidity and heat.

Thanks Ashok.


Karelia in Russia. A friend invites me every so often. It's one of those unspoiled places only a rifle seems to take a man to these days.

quote:

Originally posted by medved:

quote:

Originally posted by Ghubert:
Gentlemen,

After all the help I've had on here I thought I ought to check one or two points on preparing a wood and blue rifle for use in bad weather.

I don't believe in owning a rifle and not taking it hunting, it cheapens a rifle to deny it the opportunity become a sort of totem to hunts it's been on.

I think I've got the wet weather protection finally cracked after 3 years on our spectacularly wet Island.

The metal work has been completely cleaned, degreased and wiped over with multiple applications of Eezox as described on this thread..

I have taken the stock off, checked it over for cracks and re-oiled it inside and out.

Do I need to do anything else for a very cold ( down to about -20/30C temperatures) and quite probably wet hunt?

with thanks,

Amir

Amir,

where are you getting deep cold -20 to 30c° and wet in the same time ? just to get an idea.

all the best.

Fairly far North in Russia.

My thinking is that when it's cold, it snows and the snow will get into nooks and crannies and then melt when we get into hunting vehicles or lodges.


It happens to my shotguns when we shoot in the snow here.

You might walk into this chap's bedroom

Please see my email about the BIG gun, in that case......

quote:

Originally posted by Ghubert:

quote:

Originally posted by medved:

quote:

Originally posted by Ghubert:
Gentlemen,

After all the help I've had on here I thought I ought to check one or two points on preparing a wood and blue rifle for use in bad weather.

I don't believe in owning a rifle and not taking it hunting, it cheapens a rifle to deny it the opportunity become a sort of totem to hunts it's been on.

I think I've got the wet weather protection finally cracked after 3 years on our spectacularly wet Island.

The metal work has been completely cleaned, degreased and wiped over with multiple applications of Eezox as described on this thread..

I have taken the stock off, checked it over for cracks and re-oiled it inside and out.

Do I need to do anything else for a very cold ( down to about -20/30C temperatures) and quite probably wet hunt?

with thanks,

Amir

Amir,

where are you getting deep cold -20 to 30c° and wet in the same time ? just to get an idea.

all the best.

Fairly far North in Russia.

My thinking is that when it's cold, it snows and the snow will get into nooks and crannies and then melt when we get into hunting vehicles or lodges.


It happens to my shotguns when we shoot in the snow here.

Ok Amir,

i have a better idea now ...

dont know if you can but when i guided and we had -20°c and snow or sleet i avoided to put any rifles or shotgun inside ... because you ll get as you said moisture but the scopes will not love it too ... do you have a way to avoid to put your rifles inside the cars (maybe in the trunk with a case if you put the case in the isba every night) and of course let the rifles out or on the balcony ... because i dont know how you can make it works if you have humidity or moisture then frost especially for the wood ... it worked very well with a savage 1899 1923 300 savage take down ... and his b & l 4000 ...

for the metal parts i use a very good product (some mentionned graphite) but i prefer break free (for the metal parts) and it works at least up to -36°c ... never get any frozen rifles with that but i never let the rifles i use to be in a warm truck.

hope it s help.

Phil

Thanks Phil, I appreciate the benefit of the experience of guys like yourself immensely.

Without forums like this, this city boy would have been up a certain creek without a certain motive instrument on many an occasion!

I hear you about not bringing the rifle inside but it may be impractical for one reason or another and so I wanted to give my rifle the best protection possible.

This is actually my first rifle and not a hunt goes by where I don't thank the vastly more experienced gentleman on AR who took me under his wing and found me a Tikka M690 in 30.06. I've hunted two continents and over 20 species with it so far, by this time next year it will hopefully be four continents and many more species.

Sorry for going on, as you may have guessed, I'm quite attached to her.

quote:

Originally posted by Ghubert:
Thanks Phil, I appreciate the benefit of the experience of guys like yourself immensely.

Without forums like this, this city boy would have been up a certain creek without a certain motive instrument on many an occasion!

I hear you about not bringing the rifle inside but it may be impractical for one reason or another and so I wanted to give my rifle the best protection possible.

This is actually my first rifle and not a hunt goes by where I don't thank the vastly more experienced gentleman on AR who took me under his wing and found me a Tikka M690 in 30.06. I've hunted two continents and over 20 species with it so far, by this time next year it will hopefully be four continents and many more species.

Sorry for going on, as you may have guessed, I'm quite attached to her.

Amir,

i understand you.

i have a friend at Sako factory so ill ask his recommendations ... my only one will be to get some extra clips just in case .. but Tikka are made for "lovely" weather of Finland ...

quote:

Originally posted by woodelf:
I live in alaska and the conditions are about as bad as you can get. I hunt anywhere from the salt water for spring bear. Sheep hunting in the mountains in snow and rain. Moose hunting and caribou it always runs all moose hunting. Were we go we have no other option, but to camp it out and endure the elements. In the salt it can really raise hell on a rifle. All of my hunting rifles are either stainless synthetic stocks or cerakote with synthetic stocks. To be honest I think that the cerakote is the best stuff ever. Even if my rifle is stainless I will still get it cerakoted. My rifles are an investment so I have to take care of them and cerakote just makes it a little easier.

As much as I love blue and wood, I have to admit I bought a Remmie AWR for my upcoming Kodiak Blacktail hunt.

Don't be like the hunter I encountered in a camp once. His bolt assembly was frozen and he had no idea how to strip it.

Johnson's Paste Wax on wood and metal - several coats.

quote:

Originally posted by medved:

quote:

Originally posted by Ghubert:
Thanks Phil, I appreciate the benefit of the experience of guys like yourself immensely.

Without forums like this, this city boy would have been up a certain creek without a certain motive instrument on many an occasion!

I hear you about not bringing the rifle inside but it may be impractical for one reason or another and so I wanted to give my rifle the best protection possible.

This is actually my first rifle and not a hunt goes by where I don't thank the vastly more experienced gentleman on AR who took me under his wing and found me a Tikka M690 in 30.06. I've hunted two continents and over 20 species with it so far, by this time next year it will hopefully be four continents and many more species.

Sorry for going on, as you may have guessed, I'm quite attached to her.

Amir,

i understand you.

i have a friend at Sako factory so ill ask his recommendations ... my only one will be to get some extra clips just in case .. but Tikka are made for "lovely" weather of Finland ...

It's a good design of hunting rifle and the stock seems to fit me just right.

I've noticed it's very simple and you can strip the bolt with only a piece of flat metal bar. It's not a CRF mauser or some beautiful custom action but a pretty solid and well thought out hunting rifle with what is effectively a Sako barrel and trigger.. Being a M690 it was made in the early nineties well before the Beretta cheapening of the brand.

I think they imported by and badged "Ithica" in the US at that time.

The old Master sporters were particularly good range rifles, I've been looking for a minter in 308 for over a year with no luck but it seems people don't want to give them up!

quote:

Originally posted by Brice:
Don't be like the hunter I encountered in a camp once. His bolt assembly was frozen and he had no idea how to strip it.

Ok.

quote:

Originally posted by Ghubert:

quote:

Originally posted by medved:

quote:

Originally posted by Ghubert:
Thanks Phil, I appreciate the benefit of the experience of guys like yourself immensely.

Without forums like this, this city boy would have been up a certain creek without a certain motive instrument on many an occasion!

I hear you about not bringing the rifle inside but it may be impractical for one reason or another and so I wanted to give my rifle the best protection possible.

This is actually my first rifle and not a hunt goes by where I don't thank the vastly more experienced gentleman on AR who took me under his wing and found me a Tikka M690 in 30.06. I've hunted two continents and over 20 species with it so far, by this time next year it will hopefully be four continents and many more species.

Sorry for going on, as you may have guessed, I'm quite attached to her.

Amir,

i understand you.

i have a friend at Sako factory so ill ask his recommendations ... my only one will be to get some extra clips just in case .. but Tikka are made for "lovely" weather of Finland ...

It's a good design of hunting rifle and the stock seems to fit me just right.

I've noticed it's very simple and you can strip the bolt with only a piece of flat metal bar. It's not a CRF mauser or some beautiful custom action but a pretty solid and well thought out hunting rifle with what is effectively a Sako barrel and trigger.. Being a M690 it was made in the early nineties well before the Beretta cheapening of the brand.

I think they imported by and badged "Ithica" in the US at that time.

The old Master sporters were particularly good range rifles, I've been looking for a minter in 308 for over a year with no luck but it seems people don't want to give them up!

the Tikka 690 was sold as Whitetail in USA- Canada ... great rifle and easy bolt stripe but i doubt you ll have to stripe it if you avoid moisture and of course not overflooded with oil or grease ....

Ghubert

Have a read of this thread you might get a few hints of cold weather shooting

700 culled in 100 days

http://www.environmentalgraffi...o-hayh/20951?image=2

Look what he did after retirement !

http://www.environmentalgraffi...o-hayh/20951?image=6