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Re: 340 Weatherby Accuracy Problem!
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Check and see if it is pressure bedded up in the forend. Its usually just a hump down in the barrel channel of the stock meant to put upward pressure on the barrel about 2 inches back from the end of the forend. If it is pressure bedded, you can always remove it and free float the barrel and see if that helps. If not, you can build the hump back. Another way to look at it is...The first two shots are right there and it's a 340 so if your doing your part, the animal is on the ground before shot #3.
Some other things you can play with is action screw torque. I think weatherby suggests 55 to 60 INCH pounds of torque. Some people like to play with that by starting at 30 in lbs and working their way up in 5 in lb increments to find the sweet spot for accuracy. Of course you'll want to check for normal stock culprits like the barrel channel pushing on one side of the barrel or the other. Check that the action sits flat in stock and bottoms out and doesn't rock back and forth. This would cause the action to be binding when the action screws are tight and would affect accuracy. I'm pretty basic. I'm sure there are alot more shooters on this forum with alot more suggestions on your problem. Good luck. Another reason to get out and shoot. You can always send it back to weatherby also. I think they have a 1.5 in guarantee. For what it's worth.
 
Posts: 69 | Location: Milwaukie, Oregon | Registered: 23 October 2004Reply With Quote
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I have a Weatherby Mark V 340 Weatherby that was not very accurate when I bought it. However, after seating the bullet out further and trying a different powder it is very accurate with the first two shots but from there on the shots are all over the place. It is a stainless with synthetic stock. All shots are good enough for hunting but I want better performance. I try to shoot in three shot groups and then let the barrel cool but maybe I'm not letting it cool long enough. Suggestions?




Define "Not accurate".

HOW recoil sensitive are you??
not casting aspursions at your manhood, just that some people start to get a little "distracted" shooting that one from the bench by about the 3rd or 4th pull.

I put a brake on mine so as not to be "distracted" and played with loads and until I burned out the bbl. it shot 1/2-3/4" groups all day with Sierra 250gr gameKings and 1/2" with the 300 MatchKings. It would shoot 8-9" groups at 1000yds.
I took mine out of the wood stock and threw it into a glass one, and bedded then floated the bbl. I have always preferred floated bbls even in glass stocks.

Out of the box they are guaranteed to shoot within 1 1/2" and from my experience with Wby bbls they are capable of much better then that.

My bbl is carbon steel not stainless and I got no noticable loss in tight groups due to heat until I got into the 8-10 rounds fired in sequence range. Then it would start to wander.
Since your first rounds are good, your scope or mounts aren't the problem.

If it won't perform within specs I would call Weatherby and ship it off to them.
 
Posts: 624 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 07 April 2003Reply With Quote
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At 100 yards, my first two shots are right where I want. I have it sighted in at three inches high at 100 yards so by aiming at center the first two shots were three inches high and centered. The remaining shots after that will range within a eight to ten inch circle. Most have been high. I also shoot loaded up 45-70's and I don't have any trouble with flinching. Normally I shoot in three shot groups and then let the barrel cool. I took the rifle to a gunsmith today and he is going to glass bed the barrel and make sure it is free floating. He thinks this will take care of the problem. I will report back! Thanks! P.S. I also have a brake on this rifle and recoil is about like a 270.
 
Posts: 47 | Registered: 09 September 2004Reply With Quote
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