I am thinking about building one of these. Does anybody have any reloading information for one and any other info or opinion would be appreciated.

There are a bunch of guys here that are members of the 338-06 club. I think it's one of the better choices for hunting deer/elk & bear in the lower 48. 200-210gr bullets @ 2750fps for deer & 250gr @ 2450fps for bigger stuff.
I think the 210gr Nosler partition was made for the .338-06. You can easily drive it to 2750fps from a 22"bbl. & very few animals will stop one of these bullets, I have only recovered one from the several elk size animlas I have taken w/ it.
The cart. likes med. burners starting w/ IMR4064 & going to H4350. There are many in between, but RL15 & H4350 cover all of my bullet weights. Brass can be bought from Norma or made from any 30-06 or 35whelen case. Easy to load for, comfortable to shoot even in a 8# rifle, what's not to like? BTW, it is pretty much a handloaders round so it's not for the Wallyworld rifle guys that want to be able to buy ammo anywhere.

I would highly recommend one.

It is pretty much a reloader only round. But 180gr @ 3000 to 250gr @2500 and everything in between.

I built mine specifically for elk, but have found it to work extremely well on deer and antelope also.

I have a 338-280 based wildcat. It has more capacity than the 338-06 but I've always found RL15 as my go to powder. I also used the 210PT as my normal do all. Until I tried the 200Accubond. Shoots a little flatter, is more accurate and same down range results.

At least the Hornady manual has loading data for it. Probably others as well......it's a lot more popular than one might think.

Loadbook has one for the .338-06 as well as the Hodgdon Annual at Walmart for $7 has data for 9 bullets.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=794498

quote:

Originally posted by Clem:
Here is mine. I like either the 225 or 250 grain Partitions.

Well, Clem, that'n plumb purty. Good caliber, too!

Thanks for all of the info guys, it is greatly appreciated. You guys are backing up a lot of what I have heard. I want to shoot the 225 grain bullet hopefully with IMR 4064.

Clem, that is a beautiful rifle!!! Does anybody have any info on what actions are best to do this with? And, are reloading dies hard to find?

When I see a nice rifle like that I want to know the action/barrel/stock, details.

Also, can someone tell me how I attach a pic on a message? Thanks.

My 338/06 is my favorite rifle. MOA groups with 200/210 gr pills & RL15.

I have one in an FN Mauser action from the 1950's. Mine shoots best with Ramshot Big Game and 210 TSX's. I can't think of anything better for elk, moose, and African plains game.

An easy way to get one that shoots and handles great...a Weatherby Ultralightweight, with a 24" fluted barrel weighs in at 6 lbs with Talley custom aluminum 2 pc. QD scope mounts. I did not shoot it yet but if its anything like its twin in 30-06 I will be quite satisfied.

I have only worked with 225Hornadys and 210Partions. The case filling powders without compression are N-550 and Big Game.

Think of it as a 30-06 180gr except it's 338 fat and 225gr heavy.

Well if you don't have one it sure beats the .06 with the heavy weights. It ups the ante quite abit the way I look at it and still gives you the option of using the lighter weights down to 160 Barnes I believe.

I have 2 built up and really like them alot. Darn good round!

quote:

Originally posted by Otterbob:
I am thinking about building one of these. Does anybody have any reloading information for one and any other info or opinion would be appreciated.

Hmm, slick feeding, with power! What's not to like? Not to mention it has been domesticated.

Any std. action w/ a 06 bolt is suitable for conversion. Mine is a Ruger M77 tang safety. I would love to have one on a Win.M70. Dies are readily available from Redding (my choice) or RCBS.

Is it worth buying brand new 338-06 brass, or is it easy to make it out of 30-06? I have never tried. Thanks for any info.

quote:

is it worth buying brand new 338-06 brass

I do it two ways. I purchase Wthby brass headstamped in .338-06 for one. The other is having Reddings .30-06 neck sizing die Type S with the .338 tapered expander with bushings. I can also use that for my .06 as well and change out for the carb. button.

Another way is to just neck up the brass and shoot. Again as it goes it is just a matter of what you want to do and what you are willing to spend to be pleased with what you shoot.

good luck

I just buy .35 Whelen and run them through the .338-06 die. Load them and shoot them. I will probably neck some up from .30-06 someday, but I don't have the need yet.

I use Lee dies,they have great expander built in.I do lube the inside of the necks with Lee's white stuff.I use once fired 30-06 Federals,not the best choice but I have lots. Winchesters are a better choice,they are roomier.

It's really hard to knock any round from .264" to .358" on that '06 case. The 6.5 is a 120g screamer, the 35 is a 250g bear thumper, and there's everything in between you could want.

I also have the Weatherby UL....great gun and kick with the Decelerator pad in nothing. Mine weighs in at about 6.75#'s with a Zeiss 3x9 scope. Remember one thing about loading ammo w/o the correct headstamp.....you ain't getting into any of the African countries with it. In both SA and Zim recently, they checked both the ammo and the gun(s). Something to think about.
The Weatherby's 24" tube does about 2800 fps with handloaded 210's...I forget the charge of RL-15 right now...the data's at my other place.
Best of luck.

Gary

Okay guys, thanks for all of the great info!!! I don't see myself going to Africa to hunt but, that is great information to pass on. Now all I have to do is decide what action. I am partial to the older Ruger 77's, but, I don't have anything on the Remington 700 or Winchester model 70. Does anyone have any info on the differences, if any, of the newer model 70's?

Second part, what do you guys suggest in barrels?

Get the best barrel you can afford. There is not a lot of cost difference between one that is good and one that is match grade. Go with stainless for sure for the sake of utility. I like Shilen and Lilja but there are a host of great barrel makers. Hire someone with real talent to barrel your action and forgo the "garage smith" down the street. Might as well tune the action and bed it properly while you are at it to get the most from your new barrel. It will be money well spent.

What do you think of Douglas?

Ob,

the best barrel is not gonna be you're shooter if you don't get the action fitted/bedded in the stock and trigger tuned. You can always have your lugs lapped and face trued. Rails polished, bolt jeweled etc..... but bedding and a trigger job plus most any barrel make will give sub moa's - I said most, all things considered.

I am having a Douglas fitted to a Mauser 98 so I suppose they are good.

There are a lot of different brands of barrels, most all are quite good. Douglas is probably as good as any for an accurate hunting rifle. I have one on my .338-06 and one on a .220AI that will shoot in the .2's on a good day. I have been using Pac Nor barrels lately as they seem to get them delivered on a more timely basis than some of the rest and they are just as good.

As a cartridge,to really great performace,it would be nice if one could get 2700 out of 24,or much better yet 2650 out of a 22".The 225 has the same S.D./B.C. as a .308" 180gr.Using the 4064class and with my standard 3.340" box,I was uncomfortable the pressure signs .What would be sweet would be a longer COL(M-700 or either of the post-64 M-70s) and a roomier case (A.I.) then you you could use the 4350 class. effectively.

What I did was get a old pre 64 with good action and send to Classic Barrel and Gun Works for a rebore to 338-06. Mine is on a fwt action and 22" fwt barrel. Ready to shoot it comes in at less than 8 lbs and shoots 1/2 at 100 with the Nosler custom 225 partition ammo. Talk to Dan and he will fix you up.

Just bloodied mine in a trip to NWT. Took a great moose one shot DRT and Mtn 'bou. Shot it twice at 257 yds but the second shot was really not necessary.

Grande, can I ask what it cost you to get it set up? Did you go with the blued or SS barrel?

quote:

Originally posted by Otterbob:
Is it worth buying brand new 338-06 brass, or is it easy to make it out of 30-06? I have never tried. Thanks for any info.

I was using 30/06 brass, but I shoot a 30/06 also... so I started making mine out of 280 Remington Brass... It is available locally, and since I don't shoot the 280 caliber, I don't have to confuse myself, with accidentally grabbing some 06 loads in a rush to get out the door....( yeah I know the bullets are visually larger in the 338 bore, but in a rush one doesn't pay that close attention)... I also use Winchester 280 brass, which is nickel plated, so all of my 338/06 loads are in nickel brass and my 06 loads are in regular brass....

Here's one I finished putting together not long ago. First trip to the range produced some 1.5" groups at 200 yds with some reloads I picked out of the book the night before.



I used necked up .30-06 brass. I was using Hornady 225's and AA2460. This rifle is fitted with a 26" Douglas bbl.

No complaints from me.

quote:

Originally posted by Clem:
Here is mine. I like either the 225 or 250 grain Partitions.

Very nice Clem!

Thank you as well z1r, I always appreciate well made rifles!

quote:

Originally posted by Otterbob:
Grande, can I ask what it cost you to get it set up? Did you go with the blued or SS barrel?

I went with the original pre-64 '06 barrel (blued) and had it bored out to 338-06. Had it reblued and bedded in a Mc stock as well as having it sighted in and broken in. My cost excluding the stock was just under $400. I believe his websight has prices for the items he does.

This is my 338/06. I had it made up for Northern Territory pigs/donkeys/horses.

Rem 700 action, Maddco #5 fluted barrel, HS Precision stock.

jb747, wow! Talk about function and beauty! That is the perfect Northern B.C. and Alaska rifle.

Mine is the AI version on Rem 700 action, Hart 24" barrel with removable muzzlebrake in an H-S Precision stock. Barnes X flat base 225 grain, molycoated over a case full of H414. Worked great on all sizes of Namibian plains game up to zebra and kudu.
I worked up the ammo for that trip using Lapua '06 brass but I also neck down Rem 35 Whelen brass.

Concerning proper headstamps for Africa...the authorities checked both gun and ammo, coming and going against my customs form and outfitter form...no problems with using '06 headstamped brass. They were most concerned with how many loaded rounds were being brought into their country and then how many unfired were leaving. They didn't snoop at the headstamp. You'll find that Weatherby 338-06 brass costs about $1 ea.

My costs (8 years ago) were about:
Rem 700 LA--free donor from old rifle.
Hart SS barrel--$300.
H-S stock-------$250.
Rifle Basix trigger-$100.
True action, fit and chamber barrel--$160.
Removeable muzzle brake--$140
Skim bed barreled action $125.

I know that H-S stocks with their aluminum block are supposed to be drop-in fit but my gunsmith, Bobby Hart, recommended it be bedded. And I don't presume to know more than my gunsmith.

quote:

Originally posted by 6.5BR:
When I see a nice rifle like that I want to know the action/barrel/stock, details.

Also, can someone tell me how I attach a pic on a message? Thanks.

The action is mostly a matter of preference. The barrel is where you want to spend your money to get a good shooter. Mine is a pre 64 M70 with a Kreiger barrel. The stock was made from a blank from Goby Walnut in Oregon.

quote:

Originally posted by z1r:
Here's one I finished putting together not long ago. First trip to the range produced some 1.5" groups at 200 yds with some reloads I picked out of the book the night before.



I used necked up .30-06 brass. I was using Hornady 225's and AA2460. This rifle is fitted with a 26" Douglas bbl.

No complaints from me.

I like the Mauser - very classy.