Doe anyone know which Talley bases fit on a Sako AV in 338 WM? They list one base for Sako I, II, III and the othe base for Sako IV, V. Anyone know which one fits a Sako AV in 338?

I have Leupole bases on my SAKO.

bulldog, those base listings are for the M-75 action. If you have another (pre-M-75) action, it will use a more 'traditional' base. The M-75 has the integral dovetails machined into the receiver, which I really like, but the selection of rings is limited on these actions, the Talleys are OK, but their bases for the SAKO 75's aren't as simple and clean as for regular drilled and tapped receivers, and even with their lowest rings, a fifty mm objective lens will still clear most standard contour barrels--meaning the low rings are still not real low on this setup.

If you are dealing with a pre M-75 action, I would just call Talley, they are great folks and are really helpful.

Good Luck--Don

So which mounts would be best and also pretty low. I will most likely be mounting a 36mm scope so would like to get it as low as possible.

You might give Conetrol and tell them what you have
They are good at getting scopes as low as possible
They will ask a lot of questions so have your scope and rifle handy.
Charlie

If you can get them, the Optiloc mounts are very good, they are on my Sako 75 and Tikka T3 rifles. Don't get the ones with separate bases, get the rings which lock directly onto the action rails. Before attaching the mounts centre the reticle in the scope getting them on target will be quite easy requiring little movement.
The Tikka is 1 and 1/4 inch to the right and 1 inch up from centre. I can't remember what movement is on the Sako but it will be much the same as the Tikka.
Good Luck.

Copula ergo sum.

The strongest mounts will be the Optilocks. They came out with extra low rings this year.

The Conetrol rings are very clean looking, and mount very low.

I would avoid Burris, Leupold and Talley bases and rings in this application.

Sako's have had the same dovetails milled into their receivers for forty years. Very strong.

The Optilock bases can be taken on and off quickly with a perfect (within 1/2 MOA) return to zero.

lawndart

So...do the ringmounts that say they are for the M-75 also work on the older AV models?

Les

Yep.

http://www.sako.fi/pdf/specs/Optilockquickmount.pdf

LD

quote:

Originally posted by bulldog563:
Doe anyone know which Talley bases fit on a Sako AV in 338 WM? They list one base for Sako I, II, III and the othe base for Sako IV, V. Anyone know which one fits a Sako AV in 338?

I imagine Ed LaPour can fix you up with anything
you might want!

http://www.edlapourgunsmithing.com/index.html

Left click - Services

Left click - Custom Rifles

Left click - Sako

quote:

Originally posted by oldun:
If you can get them, the Optiloc mounts are very good, they are on my Sako 75 and Tikka T3 rifles. Don't get the ones with separate bases, get the rings which lock directly onto the action rails. Before attaching the mounts centre the reticle in the scope getting them on target will be quite easy requiring little movement.
The Tikka is 1 and 1/4 inch to the right and 1 inch up from centre. I can't remember what movement is on the Sako but it will be much the same as the Tikka.
Good Luck.

Copula ergo sum.

What do you mean "center the reticle in the scope"?

The only thing that sours me on the Opti's is that from everything I have heard the screws are VERY soft and are basically one use. This wouldn't normally be a big deal but apparently the screws are only available from Berretta and they want 4 bucks each for them!

Where can I find the Opti's the cheapest if I do decide to go that route?

When I search the web for quick detachable opti's it only comes up with the ones for the TRG which are like 400 bucks. Anyone know where to find the ones for the AV?

Bulldog,

If you're not decided yet - Warne does make rings for both Sako and Tikka. In both permanent and "Quick Detach" styles.

They are available at Midway. Brownells has them as well.

Les

I put the one piece Optilocks on my Sako and a 44 mm objective still clears. If you are using a 36 mm, CONETROLs may be the way to go. If you decide on Optilocks, try accuflite.com These folks are very helpful. I searched in vain for months before I found these guys. They will treat you right.

I have already been in contact with accuflite. Very helpful. They reccomended the opti's. I am currently deciding if I want to use Warne, conetrol or the Opti's.

quote:

Originally posted by bulldog563:

quote:

Originally posted by oldun:
If you can get them, the Optiloc mounts are very good, they are on my Sako 75 and Tikka T3 rifles. Don't get the ones with separate bases, get the rings which lock directly onto the action rails. Before attaching the mounts centre the reticle in the scope getting them on target will be quite easy requiring little movement.
The Tikka is 1 and 1/4 inch to the right and 1 inch up from centre. I can't remember what movement is on the Sako but it will be much the same as the Tikka.
Good Luck.

Copula ergo sum.

What do you mean "center the reticle in the scope"?

What I did before mounting the scope was to wind the adjustment to the left untill it won't go any further. Then wind through to the right counting the number of revolutions to get from left to right. This might take, say 4 1/2 revolutions, (I can't remember the exact number). Wind back (to the left in this theoretical example 2 1/4 revolutions) and this position should, I think, bring the reticle to the centre of it's travel. When I sighted in my Tikka after doing the above the movement to get the point of aim, on target, was 1 and 1/4 inch to the right. The procedure was repeated with the up down movements. That I think says a lot for the precision of the scope and the mounts.
The above is what I did, if it doesn't, as I said "centre the reticle" in theory, in practice it pretty much did.
Some one might tell me that what I did was not as outlined, I'll be pleased to hear what, if anything, is incorrect about the above.
I thank you.

I obviously wasn't thinking clearly when I made that post. Thanks for the explanation anyway.