I see lots of opinion at AR on just about everythng, from what is the best (bush rifle, elk cartridge, barrel-maker, bolt handle, you name it), sound hunting ethics, classics vs. modern firearms,and so on.

But I almost never see much about triggers.

In thinking over that subject, I realize I have arguments with myself, have opinions which change from time to time, and really can't reach any absolute conclusions which seem to cover all circumstances.

For example...I really like nice crisp triggers with about a 1-3/4 pound pull...for hunting varmints in the prqirie fields.

But for big game hunting in the woods & mountains I really prefer a little heavier trigger pull....maybe 2-3'4 to 3 pounds. That may be because I am moving more, through varying terrain, and may feel safer with that heavier trigger pull. But it still isn't too heavy for MOA (Minute of Animal) offhand accuracy.

For benchrest (not exactly a "field" sport) or Schuetzen shooting, I prefer really light triggers. Have a 115-year old Martini Schuetzen with double-set triggers which can be adjusted down to about 1/10th ounce or even less. But I can't control that weight, so I shoot it with them set at about 1/2 ounce.

Lots of my benchrest rifles have Jewell triggers which are adjusted to just about 1 ounce, give or take a very small "tad". They will adjust lighter but in benchrest, I found I do my best shooting with triggers right at an ounce, and that's shooting "free-recoil". If I actually held the gun, I'd want more like a 2-ounce setting.

Then there's across-the-course or "high power" competition. For "full-bore" (what it's called in Canada) I actually prefer a 1.5 kilo pull, or very slightly heavier. That's about 3.3 pounds in English. I learned to shoot high power when that was pretty much the internationally recognized standard required, and I guess I learned to use that last little bit of pull weight to do the finaly steadying of the rifle on aim. Now that I could legally use a lighter pull there under the more modern rules, I feel uncomfortable without the full 1.5 kilo weight.

So, I'd like to ask:

1. What trigger pull weights do you guys like, for which purposes?

2. Which brands of triggers do you prefer?

3. Do you like factory triggers, or always replace them?

4. Is weight more important than crispness, or vice versa?

5. How important is pull-weight consistency to you?

6. How about set triggers? Would you want that option on all your rifles? Why or why not?

Well, let's do some polls...after the dust settles from these, maybe we can do some more.

Question:
On your hunting field rifles, what trigger pull weight do you pefer?

Choices:
Under 2 pounds
2 to 3 pounds
More than 3 pounds
More than 3-1/2 pound
Other (how much & why)

Question:
Do you use the factory triggers which came in your rifles, or do you replace them with an after market brand? If you replace them, which brand do you prefer?

Choices:
Canjar
Timney
Bold
Jewell
Shilen
Other

Question:
What is most important to you in a trigger?

Choices:
Easy weight adjustment
Adjustment possible to under 2 pounds
"Crispness" when trigger "breaks"
Consistency of weight the trigger breaks at
Ease of installing, removing, cleaning trigger
Ability to adjust sear engagement
Other (what, specifically?)

Question:
What "kind"of trigger do you prefer?

Choices:
Simple, military "double-pull" type
Simple sporting "single-pull"type
"single-set" trigger
"double-set triggers
"close-coupled" double-set triggers
"release" trigger
Other

Question:
If you could only replace ONE of the following on your factory rifle, which would be most important togood field use?

Choices:
Sights (like adding a telescope)
Stock
Barrel
Trigger
Other

 

Same trigger in everything(varmints, bench, hunting)

Get used to it and you will shoot better.

Timney, NO creep, 2.75 pounds.

Having cut my teeth on standard commercial and military triggers and becoming fair in their use, when using the finely adjustables for any length of time, revertion to the rougher triggers takes a little doing. I think that the adjustable shooter is quite important. roger

Lighter trigger, about 1 pound for target shooting, about 2 1/2 pounds for big game. I like crisp, clean, consistent break over other attributes but have to confess to never having to replace a factory trigger yet although every one of my firearms has had a "trigger job" by me or my gunsmith.

I have no comment on varmint, competition or benchrest triggers.

On hunting rifles, lately I have been plesantly surprised with the CZ 550 single set triggers. So far I'm still on the incline learning curve with them, but I have no complaints, and I use the set feature far more than I thought I would, especially at the range.

On Rugers, the go to trigger has been a Timney.

On Mausers, the replacment trigger of choice was Blackburn for many years, and I still have no complaints, but I used the NECG trigger several times and have been very pleased with them. Many - many years ago I used a Timney on a Mauser, and wrote that off until recently, and tried another one. The Timney is much improved now IMO, and I have enjoyed it just as much as the Blackburn or the NECG. The only problem appears to be the length of the trigger, which doesn't seem to fit inside some trigger guards.

I have Canjar triggers on two Winchesters, and they have been consistantly good, but I always have this feeling that someday they are gonna break. I don't know why, but it just is. Could be because of the bad vibes I got from the woman I talked to at Canjar after the business was sold. Some bad vibes, one never forgets.

At first I thought about replacing the factory CZ 550 triggers, but as the number of CZ rifles increased, the realization of the cost of replacment triggers increased as well. So, I worked with the factory CZ trigger, and much to my plesant surprise, I have been happy with them so far. Believe me that is saying a lot, for a factory trigger, after having very good triggers for years with the Blackburns, NECGs, Canjars, and finally Timneys.

I tried a Jewell once, and quickly reached the conclusion that it was an overpriced POS. I know that's gonna rub some the wrong way, but that was my evaluation ot it, primarily based on the fact that under three pounds, on that particular trigger, once adjusted chrisp, the damn thing would fire if bumped. I found that out on an empty chamber fortunately. In other words, my much cheeper triggers could be adjusted crisper, and lighter and IMO much more safely. Maybe the Jewell BR trigger is great, if one isn't carrying the rifle around loaded, and it's always pointing downrange when loaded. Like the bad experience I once had with a Timney, my cycle takes about thirty years before I'm willing to try again. So, I'm pretty sure I'll never bet back to a Jewell. IMO, the Timney is a better hunting rifle trigger than a Jewell, and you can get two Timneys for the price of a Jewell, last time I checked.

KB

I like 3-3.5# trigger break in a hunting rifle. That takes in account cold, wet fingers and the possibility of shooting with gloves on.

I agree with Blacktailer.

PROPERLY DONE a Remington trigger can be a crisp, precise trigger.

quote:

Originally posted by wasbeeman:
I like 3-3.5# trigger break in a hunting rifle. That takes in account cold, wet fingers and the possibility of shooting with gloves on.

I agree with Blacktailer.

PROPERLY DONE a Remington trigger can be a crisp, precise trigger.

Also agree. I hunt often in very cold weather. The question was "hunting rifle" not varminter or bench gun for which I have different preferences.

I prefer 2-2.5# for warm weather and about 6# for miserable, bitter cold weather when it is 50<->35deg.

Absolutely ZERO creep, any slight perception that the Sear is moving means the engagement surfaces need attention.

The factory Remington triggers do just what I want. Occasionally they need a bit of Tuning, but I prefer their Safety, ruggedness, reliabiity and ease of tuning to an aftermarket trigger. I see no need to waste money on something that works just great as is, only to say I have a XXXXX Aftermarket Trigger.

Best of luck to you all.

quote:

The factory Remington triggers do just what I want. Occasionally they need a bit of Tuning, but I prefer their Safety, ruggedness, reliabiity and ease of tuning to an aftermarket trigger. I see no need to waste money on something that works just great as is, only to say I have a XXXXX Aftermarket Trigger.

This has been my experience as well.....Factory Remington triggers are quite good

I might add that the new factory M-70 triggers are also extremely good as well....much better than former triggers that had no way to adjust out creep!...(except by precision grinding methods)

Many of my guns are milsurp Mauser and every one of them sports a Timney trigger. I can't imagine a better trigger!

My rem 700,howa1500,and savage 99 have what they were born with.
All the others are mausers and they have a timneyin them.I do have 1 bold trigger and the jury is still out on that one.

For a Mauser, I vote Ted Blackburn's

My Ruger #3 sports a Kepplinger singgle-set;
primary pull is set at 2lbs,
set pull is set at 8oz.
My Vanguard has the factory trigger that has a spring and polish job and breaks at a tic over 2lbs.
The rest of my rifles are Savage/Stevens and all have SSS trigers set at 2lbs.
Four of these rifles are are varmint weight and four are hunting rifles.
I enjoy the consistancy of pull weight in all of my rifles.
GOOD LUCK and GOOD SHOOTING!!!

I have never changed a trigger out before, but I have had a couple not-so-good ones.

My Kimbers are by far the best I have ever owned.
No creep and adjustable to whatever I want with no overtravle.
Just great top-of-the-line triggers.

My Remington’s are good also, and are easily adjusted.

Ruger’s are another story...I have had to grind the sear on all of my Rugers and change out the spring to get what I wanted.

My Browning A-Bolt was just a spring clip away from being good to go.

But with my Weatherby MK V
I had to change the spring but it is the overtravle that I don't like and in the MK V this can not be fixed.

In the FWIW dept: I'll take a trigger that has a heavier pull over one that creeps anyday.

When I am shooting different rifles off of my bench, especially if I am going back and forth from target rifles to hunting rifles, I will dry fire two or three times with the rifle before I start shooting it.

I wish i could have my Tikka LSA 55 trigger in all my rifles. The crispness and the ease of adjustment is unbelievable and it shoots thumb nail holes at 200 meters in my 222 Rem.

My Kimber Montana has some creep and that is the only complaint I have with the rifle. I am still getting used to adjusting it and working with some 220 grit wet & dry - fold a bit of the Emory paper on the sear and work the bolt & dry fire.

I put a Jewell on my Rem. 700 Police, .308 Win. Set at about 4 oz. for bench shooting and "sniper" work (lay on the ground and shoot varmints).

I thought I'd seen "good triggers" until I installed this Jewel. 4 oz and I can move down to about 1.5 oz. Jewell will customize springs if you want to go less.

And the design makes this light pull entirely safe. No "boom" when you close the bolt hard.

Best $300 I've ever spent on a rifle/install.

They can be installed without a gunsmith, but I have $3 K into the rifle/scope and want the trigger done right.

I like my Jewell, but it has a bit of creep at lighter weights. However, I don't mind a "double pull" type. I think a good scope will help more than anything else, you can't hit what you can't dial for!

quote:

Originally posted by Tyler Kemp:
I like my Jewell, but it has a bit of creep at lighter weights. However, I don't mind a "double pull" type. I think a good scope will help more than anything else, you can't hit what you can't dial for!

I also have a Jewel on one of my rifles and if one is not going to want a triger set very low, then I prefer the Shilen which has zero creep

Jewel's can uasualy be adjusted for zero creep. They did go through period a few years ago where they sent out some crappy triggers that don't adjust well, but the latest ones are excellent again.

1. 2-3 lbs is fine for my hunting rifles.

2. Timney is the one I have the most of, I do have one Bold and SSS trigger and feel they are very good as well.

3. I work usually with the trigger on the rifle first and replace it when I can't do anything else. Like mentioned Remington I feel makes a fine trigger.

4. Crispness and no creep are more important to me than weight.

5. A good trigger should have the same pull weight every time so very important.

6. Have one rifle with set triggers, it sure makes for a light trigger pull once I set it. However if I don't the I have a lot of creep to take up on the front trigger. For hunting I think the snigle set would be the better option. I still prefer for hunting a single stage Timney or similar product over the set triggers. Might be a different story if I hunted from a Blind or Stand, but I prefer to spot and stalk my game.

AC, voted other on your last poll question. I feel that every rifle is different and I'll change the thing that I feel will give me the best opportunity to improve accuracy. Usually it will be optics or the trigger first because these are generally the most affordable options. However if it is recoil giving accuracy issues I'd be better off changing the stock or adding a brake before anything else. If I think the barrel is suspect, I have a bore scope ran down it and the crown inspected by my smith before I consider a barrel swap.

I really like the new trigger on Winchester M70's coming out of South Carolina. No creep, crisp and adjustable.

quote:

Originally posted by vapodog:

quote:

The factory Remington triggers do just what I want. Occasionally they need a bit of Tuning, but I prefer their Safety, ruggedness, reliabiity and ease of tuning to an aftermarket trigger. I see no need to waste money on something that works just great as is, only to say I have a XXXXX Aftermarket Trigger.

This has been my experience as well.....Factory Remington triggers are quite good

I might add that the new factory M-70 triggers are also extremely good as well....much better than former triggers that had no way to adjust out creep!...(except by precision grinding methods)

I agree too! When I do replace a Remington trigger, I usually look for 40X parts first, then to the aftermarket if all else fails. On Mauser 98 type rifles I like the two stage trigger, but look for Sako parts when upgrades are sought. In any event, I want a trigger that holds its adjustments. If inconsistencies can't be adjusted out, the trigger gets replaced. The two best triggers I have are on 22s (one is Anchutz, the other a Canjar)

Since most of my hunters are over or close to 50 years old, I am use to a 2 stage military type trigger.
None of them is over 4lb. They do vary ever so slightly from 3.5 to 4lb, but all break cleanly. Even on my more modern hunters, I stick w/ a 2 stage under 4lb. The worst trigger is the Savage accu-trigger, it is not natural at all. I have a much older 110 that breaks clean at 3.75lb. The CZ 527 trigger took some time to get use to.
I'm the 1%'er

Mine are set to 3lbs and are nice and crisp. My varmit rig (223 Rem w. Bull barrel) is a 2lb trigger.

Can someone help me please. How do I get rid of the creep in my Kimber Montana? is it just a case of adjusting the sear or do I keep doing the wet & dry treatment ....?

quote:

wet & dry treatment ....?

Explain?
In the FWIW department, I never oil a trigger -any trigger-. A wet lube is an open invitation for dirt to come join the party. However, when I do service my triggers (and I don't neglect them) I blow off any excessive residue with compressed air. The intent is to only leave enough lube to do the job and afford rust protection. I have yet to find a dry lube I like.

There are exceptions, of course, and one of them is my AR. I grease that trigger because it gets cleaned often and the gas impingement system used is inherently dirty. Ruger rifles benefit from a dab of grease too. Remington triggers need nothing unless they get gunked up.
That's been my experience...

quote:

Originally posted by buckshot:

quote:

wet & dry treatment ....?

Explain?...

Wet & Dry Emory paper - 220 grit. I take a very small piece say 0.25 inch square and fold it and then insert it on top of the sear so that it does not move too much when I cock the rifle & fire it. I am assuming this will make the sear a bit smoother without running the risk of getting the angles wrong as the engaging parts should sort the angles out automatically.

Any suggestions on the Kimber?

quote:

Originally posted by Nakihunter:
Can someone help me please. How do I get rid of the creep in my Kimber Montana? is it just a case of adjusting the sear or do I keep doing the wet & dry treatment ....?

The sear is compleatly adjustable on your Kimber. I have my Kimber 22LR Classic scary short.

I have only replaced one trigger and that was with a Jewell.

I have all of my other bolt action Rifle rifles “cleaned up” by the same gun smith and they are very good… btw all my Bolt rifles are Rem 700 BDLs

I am happy with the Jewell but not enough to change the others, the trigger “blade” on the Jewell is a tad narrow for me… other than that it is a great trigger

Plus One! on the factory CZ set trigger. Have a good gunsmith adjust it to 3lbs unset, and then piddle with it a little until it breaks at 1lb set.

Rich

There are two things wrong with a Jewell trigger.
1. They cost too much.
2. Once you own one everything else sucks!!!

Jewll triggers are the best and the ones I use when only the best will do.........Tom

M98 Timney (circa 1980) on my Oberndorf 404. Set to give a nice light let off, breaks like glass. Couldn't ask for anything better.

A crisp clean break every time/no creep is a must. Mt hunting rifles usually have about 3.5lb +/-. My varmit guns I go down to about 2-2.5 most of my triggers are either timmney, or bold, and are both user friendly., don't shoot bench rest YET.

I had another close look at my Kimber. Read Frank DeHass's book on bolt rifles and the Rem 700 trigger (Kimber trigger is so similar for adjustments).

I checked the trigger again and decided to just adjust the pull weight first. I was surprised to find that the trigger pull was the real problem - set so tight it must have been 7 lbs! I had to turn it back 5 full turns and now it breaks like glass. No problem with the sear at all!

I lost a nice Sika deer spiker....