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Sako.scope mount fix
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I.had one of the sako 416 rem mag with the backwards dovetail mounts and someone is asking how to fix those mounts.I sold my.rifle didn't like big cheek piece and scope mounts .I.thought you could have the receiver drilled and tapped but I.never did just sold mine.I told him to look for a model 70 Winchester in 416 rem mag which I.like alot better .I.heard of.lots of scopes blowing.off those sakos.
 
Posts: 2543 | Registered: 21 December 2003Reply With Quote
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I have shot Sakos for 20 years or more, lots of them. None were in the .416 recoil category, but I never had any problems with scopes flying off, or loosening.


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Posts: 2652 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 08 December 2006Reply With Quote
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I've owned Sakos for over a half-century now, and I have Sakos in just about every imaginable caliber (and a few you wouldn't necessarily imagine). Among them are a .375, .375 AI, and .416 Rem. I have never had a Sako scope mount in any way come loose or otherwise fail. The heavier the kicker, the tighter the mount gets on the tapered dovetailed integral bases, which are among the strongest, most foolproof weddings of a receiver and a scope ring ever devised.

That doesn't mean that someone incompetent can't improperly mount a scope on a Sako. I had one literally fall off in my hands a few days ago which came from a neophyte who apparently was ignorant of which end of a screwdriver is used on the screw. I can assure you, anyone who thinks that the Sako mounting system is somehow faulty is ill-informed or uninitiated.
 
Posts: 13262 | Location: Henly, TX, USA | Registered: 04 April 2001Reply With Quote
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I had read alot about on it on here happening..This rifle that a friend found had been drilled and tapped through the bases to fix it .I sold my.416 sako without shooting.It after I.read about all the problems with scopes blowing off on the 416 sakos.I.blew a scope off my ,338 win mag Winchester once it was not drilled straight from the factory .I sheared the screws off that was a mess.I.like Ruger rings but the sako just looked like trouble to me .
 
Posts: 2543 | Registered: 21 December 2003Reply With Quote
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In my opinion experience the tapered dove tail design is one big fuckup.

Although it does depend on the mounts. For example were the Sako amounts which had a screw each side (clamping a dove tail to the action dove tail) and this was for wind age. Apart from such system "having to bend things) the mounts could rock on the action.

Sako themselves know it is a fucked system which is why they have the recoil notch on the rear base.

I think you will find on their stuff like TRG they don't have them.

Note for types of target/sniper etc. shooting the cross slot type dove tail is used.

Optilocks don't have the problem of the earlier Sako mounts as they are solid on one side and a screw/clamp system on the other side. But they sure do look fucked.
 
Posts: 7046 | Location: Sydney Australia | Registered: 14 September 2015Reply With Quote
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I have one of those .416 Sako rifles (an AV Hunter).
It has been through hundreds of recoil cycles without a problem.

I did also have a Ruger 77 on which the mounting divots were malaligned. I milled the very top of the receiver off, and then attached a picatinny rail with four 8x40 screws. Worked, and works great for a friend of mine.


 
Posts: 7158 | Location: Snake River | Registered: 02 February 2004Reply With Quote
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The Sako mounts are probably the strongest system made. As for the stock on the Sako, it fits very well for people with long necks like I have.


 
Posts: 7158 | Location: Snake River | Registered: 02 February 2004Reply With Quote
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I'm not a Sako expert but I did have one in 458 WM and it sheared the Sako mount. Attaching some Leupold rings directly to the receiver fixed it.

Mark


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Posts: 13070 | Location: LAS VEGAS, NV USA | Registered: 04 August 2002Reply With Quote
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What sheared on the mount? I usually think of mounting screw shearing, but don't understand how a Sako mount would shear.
 
Posts: 1070 | Registered: 02 April 2008Reply With Quote
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A Sako has tapered dove tails, the more you shoot it the tighter it gets even if not tightened up enough, as it moves forward with each shot as the gun move rearward.

I have never know or seen or owned a Sako that failed on this issue unless it was improperly installed, for it to come off defies all that's holy!! I liked the older Sako L series rifles better than most factory rifles, other than the Monte Carlo stocks, but they work fine, just ugly to my eyes, so I reached for the cabinet rasp and reshaped the whole shebang to a more classic design or custom stocked it..I would have, if they had control feed, Id loved them for DG hunting. They sure make up into a nice varmint rifle in 6x45, 222, 223, hard to beat.


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 42210 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Atkinson:

A Sako has tapered dove tails, the more you shoot it the tighter it gets even if not tightened up enough, as it moves forward with each shot as the gun move rearward.



That could only occur if both tapered bases and the mount base were a perfect match otherwise the system will be stopped by one of the mounts.

Remember that a scope basically converts all mounts into bridge mounts.
 
Posts: 7046 | Location: Sydney Australia | Registered: 14 September 2015Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Mike McGuire:
In my opinion experience the tapered dove tail design is one big fuckup.

Although it does depend on the mounts. For example were the Sako amounts which had a screw each side (clamping a dove tail to the action dove tail) and this was for wind age. Apart from such system "having to bend things) the mounts could rock on the action.

Sako themselves know it is a fucked system which is why they have the recoil notch on the rear base.

I think you will find on their stuff like TRG they don't have them.

Note for types of target/sniper etc. shooting the cross slot type dove tail is used.

Optilocks don't have the problem of the earlier Sako mounts as they are solid on one side and a screw/clamp system on the other side. But they sure do look fucked.


Yeah and they shear off when you bash them onto the dovetail with a hammer too don't they Mike? Another design flaw. killpc


The hunting imperative was part of every man's soul; some denied or suppressed it, others diverted it into less blatantly violent avenues of expression, wielding clubs on the golf course or racquets on the court, substituting a little white ball for the prey of flesh and blood.
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Posts: 916 | Location: L.H. side of downunder | Registered: 07 November 2004Reply With Quote
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We have had so many Sakos in all calibers up to the 404 J.

No problems with scope mounts coming off at all.


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Posts: 69133 | Location: Dubai, UAE | Registered: 08 January 1998Reply With Quote
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My biggest caliber Sako is a 375 H&H and I haven't had one bit of problem with the mounts on it or any other Sako.
 
Posts: 291 | Location: Coweta Oklahoma  | Registered: 08 January 2016Reply With Quote
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I want see a picture of sheared sako mount? inasmuch as a Sako is a double square bridge action..

I would like to see someone get the rings on improperly, and if so then therein lies the FU of all FUs.. homer

A notch on the rear base is not a FU, most decent mounts have notch or some other means to stop forward movement of the scope, most don't need it but its good insurance..Talleys have solid bars of steel.

Its pretty common knowledge that the double square bridge action is the strongest of all scope systems..that is why the finest of big bores that are intended for DG have double square bridges..That includes Sako, Ruger, and high dollar Mausers.


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 42210 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Atkinson:
I want see a picture of sheared sako mount? inasmuch as a Sako is a double square bridge action..



You will never see that Ray. The problems associated with the Sako system relates to the attachment of the bottom ring to the action dovetail.

Look at the rear action dovetail and there is a recoil stop notch.

If you took Sako Optilocks mounts and say belted to front one on then you strip/fuckup the screw/clamp on the mount.

in short, find me any powerful accuracy rifle that uses tapered dovetails....you won't. They are all parallel with cross slots....whether they be integral with the action or screwed and glued (or soldered) on.

As to the recoil notch it completely negates the principle of the tapered dovetails. So the idea of the mount bases getting tighter with recoil because of the tapered dovetails is bullshit.
 
Posts: 7046 | Location: Sydney Australia | Registered: 14 September 2015Reply With Quote
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Don't worry guys. This is a favourite topic of Mike's that has been all over different forums, hence my little jab at him in an earlier post. Who, with an IQ of more than 80 finds it necessary to hammer Sako optilocks onto the dovetails I would ask? Who then sprouts off on the internet about the mounts breaking and claims it is due to poor design? Who whinges incessantly about Sako mounts having a recoil stop (apparently because Sako "know they don't work") when they were designed like that from day one? It wasn't a modification that was made to remedy a problem. Who is it that feels the need to complain about the original Sako windage mounts which work perfectly when fitted by someone with a few clues but which "bend scopes" when fitted by idiots? Who doesn't even own a Sako but feels that he knows more about them than those that own several?
The answer to all of the above questions is Mike McGuire.
As for the friend of the OP who was asking his advice about how to fix Sako mounts I'd suggest he discuss with someone else that either knows something about Sakos or engineering.


The hunting imperative was part of every man's soul; some denied or suppressed it, others diverted it into less blatantly violent avenues of expression, wielding clubs on the golf course or racquets on the court, substituting a little white ball for the prey of flesh and blood.
Wilbur Smith
 
Posts: 916 | Location: L.H. side of downunder | Registered: 07 November 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Atkinson:
I want see a picture of sheared sako mount? inasmuch as a Sako is a double square bridge action..

...


OK, you asked for it:


(Yes, looks like the ring got a case of buck fever, but didn't have what it takes.)

Of course, that is not exactly a Sako, but only the Tikka rings that come with a Tikka T-3. The rings are aluminum. The caliber wasn't that big, a 338Wm, and that is about the most powerful muzzle-energy chambering that Tikka offers. When I called Tikka/Beretta, they sent out a new pair of rings, but I went ahead and purchased some steel rings before taking the rifle to Tanzania. My wife's Tikka 270Win still has the aluminum rings and they seem to hold up on 270 rounds.


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Posts: 4253 | Registered: 10 June 2009Reply With Quote
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Tikka factory rings share practically nothing with Sako optilocks in terms of design. I don't really see how that photo is relevant to this discussion.


The hunting imperative was part of every man's soul; some denied or suppressed it, others diverted it into less blatantly violent avenues of expression, wielding clubs on the golf course or racquets on the court, substituting a little white ball for the prey of flesh and blood.
Wilbur Smith
 
Posts: 916 | Location: L.H. side of downunder | Registered: 07 November 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Bushchook:
Don't worry guys. This is a favourite topic of Mike's that has been all over different forums, hence my little jab at him in an earlier post. Who, with an IQ of more than 80 finds it necessary to hammer Sako optilocks onto the dovetails I would ask? Who then sprouts off on the internet about the mounts breaking and claims it is due to poor design? Who whinges incessantly about Sako mounts having a recoil stop (apparently because Sako "know they don't work") when they were designed like that from day one? It wasn't a modification that was made to remedy a problem. Who is it that feels the need to complain about the original Sako windage mounts which work perfectly when fitted by someone with a few clues but which "bend scopes" when fitted by idiots? Who doesn't even own a Sako but feels that he knows more about them than those that own several?
The answer to all of the above questions is Mike McGuire.
As for the friend of the OP who was asking his advice about how to fix Sako mounts I'd suggest he discuss with someone else that either knows something about Sakos or engineering.


You need to get onto Sako about their TRG rifles....no tapered dovetails....they must have fucked up Big Grin
 
Posts: 7046 | Location: Sydney Australia | Registered: 14 September 2015Reply With Quote
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I have a set of Redfield mount for the Sako system. There is no post to go into the notch at the rear of the bottom dovetail.

I also picked up a pair of early 1980s rings the stud on the rear ring was pretty buggered up. I just took it off with a file, and planned on getting another stud made, and TIG welded into place. I never did that. the ring worked fine without it. So, I have two rifles with rings that don't interact with the rear notch. One is a 6mm PPC, and the other is a 300 Winchester Magnum.


 
Posts: 7158 | Location: Snake River | Registered: 02 February 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Mike McGuire:
If you took Sako Optilocks mounts and say belted to front one on then you strip/fuckup the screw/clamp on the mount.


What?
 
Posts: 1033 | Location: Central California Coast | Registered: 05 May 2007Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Mike McGuire:
quote:
Originally posted by Bushchook:
Don't worry guys. This is a favourite topic of Mike's that has been all over different forums, hence my little jab at him in an earlier post. Who, with an IQ of more than 80 finds it necessary to hammer Sako optilocks onto the dovetails I would ask? Who then sprouts off on the internet about the mounts breaking and claims it is due to poor design? Who whinges incessantly about Sako mounts having a recoil stop (apparently because Sako "know they don't work") when they were designed like that from day one? It wasn't a modification that was made to remedy a problem. Who is it that feels the need to complain about the original Sako windage mounts which work perfectly when fitted by someone with a few clues but which "bend scopes" when fitted by idiots? Who doesn't even own a Sako but feels that he knows more about them than those that own several?
The answer to all of the above questions is Mike McGuire.
As for the friend of the OP who was asking his advice about how to fix Sako mounts I'd suggest he discuss with someone else that either knows something about Sakos or engineering.


You need to get onto Sako about their TRG rifles....no tapered dovetails....they must have fucked up Big Grin


Tactical rifles all use the picatinny setup and it works pretty well as a general rule. I have nothing against the Weaver or picatinny system. Mind you I know of a few .338 Lapuas that have broken the screws that attach the rail to the action. They obviously need more than 4 screws or God forbid, a recoil stop incorporated into the underside of the rail.
I'd suggest that one of the main reasons Sako uses a double square bridge and tapered dovetails with a recoil or location pin on their hunting rifles is that Weaver rails are bloody ugly and because of the tolerances in the Weaver cross slot design that system is less likely to consistently return to zero when the scope is removed and replaced.
If you want to pick on a shitty scope mounting system then go no further than the Leupold turn in design where the rear mount does nothing much other than provide a windage adjustment.


The hunting imperative was part of every man's soul; some denied or suppressed it, others diverted it into less blatantly violent avenues of expression, wielding clubs on the golf course or racquets on the court, substituting a little white ball for the prey of flesh and blood.
Wilbur Smith
 
Posts: 916 | Location: L.H. side of downunder | Registered: 07 November 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Bushchook:
quote:
Originally posted by Mike McGuire:
quote:
Originally posted by Bushchook:
Don't worry guys. This is a favourite topic of Mike's that has been all over different forums, hence my little jab at him in an earlier post. Who, with an IQ of more than 80 finds it necessary to hammer Sako optilocks onto the dovetails I would ask? Who then sprouts off on the internet about the mounts breaking and claims it is due to poor design? Who whinges incessantly about Sako mounts having a recoil stop (apparently because Sako "know they don't work") when they were designed like that from day one? It wasn't a modification that was made to remedy a problem. Who is it that feels the need to complain about the original Sako windage mounts which work perfectly when fitted by someone with a few clues but which "bend scopes" when fitted by idiots? Who doesn't even own a Sako but feels that he knows more about them than those that own several?
The answer to all of the above questions is Mike McGuire.
As for the friend of the OP who was asking his advice about how to fix Sako mounts I'd suggest he discuss with someone else that either knows something about Sakos or engineering.


You need to get onto Sako about their TRG rifles....no tapered dovetails....they must have fucked up Big Grin


Tactical rifles all use the picatinny setup and it works pretty well as a general rule. I have nothing against the Weaver or picatinny system. Mind you I know of a few .338 Lapuas that have broken the screws that attach the rail to the action. They obviously need more than 4 screws or God forbid, a recoil stop incorporated into the underside of the rail.
I'd suggest that one of the main reasons Sako uses a double square bridge and tapered dovetails with a recoil or location pin on their hunting rifles is that Weaver rails are bloody ugly and because of the tolerances in the Weaver cross slot design that system is less likely to consistently return to zero when the scope is removed and replaced.
If you want to pick on a shitty scope mounting system then go no further than the Leupold turn in design where the rear mount does nothing much other than provide a windage adjustment.


Best mounts are integral but with parallel dovetails. Although probably better are the bases and bottom ring integral like D'Arcy Echols makes and that base screwed/glued or sweated to action.
 
Posts: 7046 | Location: Sydney Australia | Registered: 14 September 2015Reply With Quote
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Sprry but that's not a sako mount made by Sako..I have a box full of the real ones.

I do think perhaps Im referring to the L and A series of Sakos and perhaps your referring to the modern Sako of which I have no knowledge nor care to for that matter..Sako went to hell in a shoe box after the A series in my opinion.

Keep in mind that two opposing Vs when shot only tend to get tighter, they cannot get lighter and they need no post..


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 42210 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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What some are calling a "recoil lug" on the rear Sako factory ringmount isn't that at all. It is a device intended for relocating the mounts to precisely the same position if they (still attached to the scope) are removed from the rifle. This allows the original ringmount to be detached and re-attached and keep the scope's zero close to it pre-detachment setting.

Veteran Sako shooters often grind this little lug off in order to place the rear ringmount further forward in order to allow more eye relief, particularly when using variable scopes with a thick power ring. The lack of the lug has NO impact on the strength of the mount or its ability to stay in place. I have several mounts that I have modified in this way to achieve greater eye relief and they stay in place just as well as an unmodified mount.

Now, many people make the mistake of attempting to anchor Redfield, Burris, or Weaver bases for the Sako dovetails with set screws. They will attempt to mount the base not fully forward on the dovetail, thus negating the advantage of its taper and relying on the set screw to hold against recoil, which it won't. This is a huge mistake, and Burris came to recognize this by eliminating the set screws entirely from their later bases. Such bases are properly mounted by soundly tapping them as far forward as possible in order for them to strongly seize on the tapered dovetail. The only way they'll come off is to reverse the process by unseating them with a series of blows in the opposite direction, typically applied with a block of hardwood and a mallet.

People who fail to understand how the Sako system works are not necessarily bad people -- they're just uninformed, misinformed, or simply obstinate.
 
Posts: 13262 | Location: Henly, TX, USA | Registered: 04 April 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Stonecreek:
What some are calling a "recoil lug" on the rear Sako factory ringmount isn't that at all. It is a device intended for relocating the mounts to precisely the same position if they (still attached to the scope) are removed from the rifle. This allows the original ringmount to be detached and re-attached and keep the scope's zero close to it pre-detachment setting.

Veteran Sako shooters often grind this little lug off in order to place the rear ringmount further forward in order to allow more eye relief, particularly when using variable scopes with a thick power ring. The lack of the lug has NO impact on the strength of the mount or its ability to stay in place. I have several mounts that I have modified in this way to achieve greater eye relief and they stay in place just as well as an unmodified mount.

Now, many people make the mistake of attempting to anchor Redfield, Burris, or Weaver bases for the Sako dovetails with set screws. They will attempt to mount the base not fully forward on the dovetail, thus negating the advantage of its taper and relying on the set screw to hold against recoil, which it won't. This is a huge mistake, and Burris came to recognize this by eliminating the set screws entirely from their later bases. Such bases are properly mounted by soundly tapping them as far forward as possible in order for them to strongly seize on the tapered dovetail. The only way they'll come off is to reverse the process by unseating them with a series of blows in the opposite direction, typically applied with a block of hardwood and a mallet.

People who fail to understand how the Sako system works are not necessarily bad people -- they're just uninformed, misinformed, or simply obstinate.


Agree with much of what you say. However it just illustrates that it is an unnecessary complicated system.

The bottom line is target rifles in both small and powerful calibres use parallel dovetails and cross slot mounts.

If the "tapers" are to be used properly then neither base should have a screw/clamp on one side and each base belted onto the dovetail and then the scope mounted.

One of the problems is if the mounts are not spot on in dimensions they will slide too far forward on the dovetails.....of course this catered for by the combination of the rear notch and screw/clamp on the side of the bases which in turn makes it a poor a system compared to the parallel dovetails and cross slot mounts.
 
Posts: 7046 | Location: Sydney Australia | Registered: 14 September 2015Reply With Quote
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I hate to hijack the conversation, but since you all are talking about Sako's... I thought i'd jump in.

I have a Sako AV in 375 H&H... and love the rifle.. It has a Leupold 1.5x5 on it, and is holding up just fine..

What i really need though is a front and rear sight for this rifle! The original owner was in his 80's when i got it from him and didn't have a clue what he did with them. (he has since passed..)

Since Atkinson mentioned he has a "box full of Sako mounts" I figured I'd take a chance and see if anyone has the sights in their parts box..

thanks guys!


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Posts: 1984 | Location: The Three Lower Counties (Delaware USA) | Registered: 13 September 2001Reply With Quote
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An A-V would most likely have been equipped with Williams sights. You can contact Williams with information on the distance between the mounting holes and diameter of the barrel at the mounting holes and they can likely provide you a set of sights that duplicates the originals.
 
Posts: 13262 | Location: Henly, TX, USA | Registered: 04 April 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Pa.Frank:
I hate to hijack the conversation, but since you all are talking about Sako's... I thought i'd jump in.

I have a Sako AV in 375 H&H... and love the rifle.. It has a Leupold 1.5x5 on it, and is holding up just fine..

What i really need though is a front and rear sight for this rifle! The original owner was in his 80's when i got it from him and didn't have a clue what he did with them. (he has since passed..)

Since Atkinson mentioned he has a "box full of Sako mounts" I figured I'd take a chance and see if anyone has the sights in their parts box..

thanks guys!

Rear sight would have been the factory peep on an AV I think.


The hunting imperative was part of every man's soul; some denied or suppressed it, others diverted it into less blatantly violent avenues of expression, wielding clubs on the golf course or racquets on the court, substituting a little white ball for the prey of flesh and blood.
Wilbur Smith
 
Posts: 916 | Location: L.H. side of downunder | Registered: 07 November 2004Reply With Quote
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I have never had a factory Sako mount fail. I have owned a ton of Sakos and Tikkas.
 
Posts: 7782 | Location: Das heimat! | Registered: 10 October 2012Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Stonecreek:
An A-V would most likely have been equipped with Williams sights. You can contact Williams with information on the distance between the mounting holes and diameter of the barrel at the mounting holes and they can likely provide you a set of sights that duplicates the originals.


Thanks this is helpful, but I was really hoping one of you guys was gonna tell me..... HEY, I GOT ONE!!
fishing


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Posts: 1984 | Location: The Three Lower Counties (Delaware USA) | Registered: 13 September 2001Reply With Quote
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NOt sure what you need, so tell me as I do have a bunch of Sako stuff mostly rings and some Con troll rings also I think, its a matter of finding the damn box in a shop full of damn boxes!! Eeker

The peep sights are available on the internet quite often, try Guns International or Guns America..The peep was the standard rear sight as I recall on the L series anyway, not sure about the A series, at the time I was disgusted with the A series as cheap junk by comparison, but that's an old story in the changing of great guns..but I still prefer the L series sakos and the A series has moved up to second place, always be careful whatcha wish for! tu2


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 42210 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Good read, I will be referencing this in the near future coffee


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