hey everyone i took some pics of the armor plate after i shot it and i was quite surprised with the outcome. With it being armor i didnt think my winny would penetrate as far as it did at 200 yds. You'll see a couple other marks on it as well ,those are my buddys 204 ruger. Sorry pic quality is sucky but my camera was dying. the first pic shows the dents from the offside keep in mind this is 1/2 in armorplated steel. The second pic show the holes it made, it penetrated 7/16's of an inch into the plate.

And the pictures are....?
Peter.

Sorry guys it took me a little while to figure out which url code to use.

Bill23, sorry if I am a bit slow, but I assume this is connected with a previous thread about shooting at 200 yards. Did the 300WM not in fact penetrate completely through? I had opined that it would not.
Peter.

An experiment to try...cut off the exposed lead tip of a soft point bullet until it is level with the jacket. Then fire it at the steel plate. You may find in penetrates better than an conventional round.

In WWI the Germans were at first demoralised by the British tanks. Until someone...I have not seen a source of whom...pulled a bullet from a normal cartridge and reversed it. Firing it base first. This penetrated!

Apparently the jacket holds the lead together and maybe concentrates the force similar to a munro effect in a shaped charge. This use of reversed bullets then became an accepted German counter to British tanks.

a 270 winchester will go through a 3/8" piece of steel like a hot knife through butter @ 100 yards with a conventional soft point. I bet if you moved that armor plate up to 100 yards and used a 150 gr FMJ or all copper bullet, it would penetrate all the way. If it was regular steel, it would have probably penetrated all the way at 200 yards

Hey guys, i was surprised with the outcome i thought that with it being armor it wouldnt have gone through that far, my boss didnt think it would even penetrate at all,so he is going to try to get me a piece of 5/8 armor next time and we'll see what it does with that.Oh and if you were wondering where im getting all of this armor, I work for a company that builds tanks and Mine Resistant ambush protected vehicles(MRAP) and that 1/2 inch stuff is what the bottom V-hull is made out of.

If they were cut with a torch, the heat can soften the plate for some distance away from the actual cut. We have some 5/8 AR500 plates that were commercially done with a laser and they'll shrug off .223, .308, 9.3x62, and .375 rounds at 100yds. Hits within 1/2" of the edge will leave a divit.
We did find that a .300 RUM will cause a rough sided crater that's entirely different from the smooth sided one usually caused by striking softer steel. And a 500gr bullet from the Lott will sometimes snap the plate in two at 100yds.

Hey rick, thanks for the reply, I was thinking about the heat effected zone of the plate because i did cut it with a torch and also the welds on the back put alot of heat into it also, when i get the 5/8 armor i wont put any heat into it and we'll see what she does then.

Bill,
Our targets came from Action Target in Utah. The weld will create a soft spot also.

We're using the PT round plate and they have the support plate welded to the back and set at an angle. The target attaches to a post with two 5/8" bolts but the manufacturer instructions were to leave the bolts and nut connection just snug. The force used to move the plate slightly helps allow the bullet to begin to shatter instead of penetrating the plate.

You might find this link of interest re welding armour plate. Sometimes the link works...sometimes it doesn't, but it is a valid link:

http://www.raeme.net/toc.php?cat=aveh&item=2#article