I'm wondering how many of you guys either glass-bed or pillar-bed (with glass as well as the pillars) your hunting rifles. I'm not thinking solely of bedding for accuracy (where you'd free-float the barrel too), but also of bedding for increased protection against stock damage arising from recoil, particularly with heavier cartridges.

All of my centerfire bolt guns from 17 fireball to 7 Rem mag are glass bedded. Most do not have pillars but 2-3 do have them.

Always glass bed; never pillar; and for heavy cartridges, use a barrel recoil lug Pillars are not needed, I find.

Most of my rifles are glass bedded I guess only one is pillar bedded

I glass bed almost all mine all calibers. Only ever pillar bedded one rifle.

God Bless, Louis

Depends on the rifle and its purpose.

As a rule, I glass bed all rifles we build.

My hunting rifles are glass bedded and pillars are used too.

My own hunting rifle, the 375/404, I had to build quickly because I decided to take two rifles of the same cartridge on safari.

I had only one stock left, and that did not really fit very well.

The magazine protrudes below the stock.

I made brass pillars and bedded it in Titanium bed.

This rifle has been going to Africa for so many years, used by several hunters, and never lost its zero.

some are some aren't.
the ones that are, are bedded from tang to forearm tip.

I like to do both. Pillars first then bed the action, I use the pillars to set the height of the action, then bedding to the pillars I can make sure that the action is stress free.. I also free float the barrels.

I have done it a few time on Rem 700 and because the floorplate has been bent when someone did not correctly assemle the rifle and the magazine was caught and floor plate was bent and dug into the wood.

On a Rem 700 I use a shell holder with the smaller end under the floor plate. It is a perfect fit anf of course the larger end is in the epoxy (Devcon steel) used for the bedding. The have to be drilled out a little bit for screw clearance.

However, the action is always resting on the bedding.

From 375 H&H and up I always glass bed to prevernt the stock from cracking, even if its a factory rifle. Of course I am talking about wooden stocks mainly.

But glass bedding also helps accuracy so probably a good idea to do it if it needs doing.

Most of mine are, particularly big bores that I haul to foreign lands..I glass bed and use cross bolts..and a extra barrel mounted recoil lug....A Safari costs a bundle, don't ruin it with an out of the box rifle of any kind..

Ive seen as many custom guns split out as factory guns I think...The best of wood can shrink and form a gap and that gives the metal a running start to the wood..I know this upsets some custom gun makers, but it is what it is, Ive seen it and don't recommend taking chances.. I will say I have seen some custom guns and old English and German rifles that are a 100 plus years old that have survived without fail, and attribute that to wood choice, cured and dryed properly and many a good stock makers is not a wood expert I fear....so it can go either way...and that's the rest of the story..

I have the actions and forearm channels of all my Ruger’s glassed. Because I had a 375 Ruger split length wise down the forend on the first 3 shots.

quote:

Originally posted by South Pender:
I'm wondering how many of you guys either glass-bed or pillar-bed (with glass as well as the pillars) your hunting rifles. I'm not thinking solely of bedding for accuracy (where you'd free-float the barrel too), but also of bedding for increased protection against stock damage arising from recoil, particularly with heavier cartridges.

I don't bed my rifle stocks anymore. All I do is to buy a good quality synthetic stock. My .338's have McMillan stocks, where the action sit perfectly. Yes, the stocks are expensive, but...

I have glass / pillar bedded Winchester Mod 70 push feed, Sako Hunter, Sako L61R etc. I've also glass bedded my 1903 & 1910 Mannlicher Schoenauers with new stocks.

All of them came out well. One re-bedding of a Sako.

Very stable and accurate.

I glass bed the action and 2 inches of the barrel, no pillars.

Dave

i glass every rifle beforei even shoot them

I always do the same as nopride2. I usually use Devcon.

quote:

Originally posted by nopride2:
I glass bed the action and 2 inches of the barrel, no pillars.

Dave

Rem 700 and M70, no bedding under barrel and also clearance of the action between the front and rear receiver rings. The position of the front screw is the key with Rem 700 and M70 or their copies.

Got a Model 70 Ultimate Shadow SS in .30-06 and put it in a hogue full length aluminum bedded stock. Figured that was better than messing with the ugly original stock and made the rifle look new again. First one I had done that on before. FWIW there is a difference in fitment of a Post64 and a Post64 MOA Trigger rifle for stock fitment. I had to do some adjustments with a die grinder & dremel

LOrd may I leave this world without ever owning a plastic stocked rifle for more than a week!

I just picked up my old pre-64 model 70 in 264 Win Mag, which I had re-barreled after wearing out the original barrel. The rifle builder decided to pillar bed the Brown Precision stock I’d glass bedded years earlier. When I picked up the rifle, he had me shoot it with a load he’d worked up while doing barrel break-in. 3 shots group size of less than 3/8ths inch. I’m glad he pillar bedded it

I've glass bedded and free floated the barrels of all of my rifles since I put the first one together in 1967.

About 20 years ago I started pillar bedding the actions.