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I can get an almost new Sako in wood for about $150 more than a new Tikka. Which would you get? | ||
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I bought the Sako. It was an AIII in pretty good shape, with nice wood. Not custom, but nice grain. I'm not sure what it would be worth, but if it SHOOTS, I'm OK with it. Just for curiosity's sake, what would it be worth? | |||
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Ok, thanks. I did OK at $700. Just hope she shoots. | |||
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Weatherby! Sorry, had to say it. Reloader | |||
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one of us |
The odds favor that it will. The triggers are adjustable and crisp. They seem to respond well to a good bedding job and floating the barrel, if necessary. They come with a touch of cast off in the stock which really helps with hunting accuracy. When you put the rifle up to your shoulder it feels "right" for most people. Try mounting the rifle with your eyes closed, and then opening them. The scope will likely be aligned with your eye. If your rifle is a .308 try a load of 45 grains of Varget behind a 168 grain HPBT (Sierra, Hornady, or Nosler, it doesn't matter) seated about .020" off the lands. That will establish you baseline accuracy. Enjoy. JCN | |||
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If you don,t like synthetic mags, trigger guards & bolt shrouds, buy the Sako. Also the Sako has a Monte Carlo style stock as opposed to the Tikka,s classic tyle. The Tikka has a Vertical stack mag which works really well but you have to remove the mag to reload it - the Sako has a staggered mag which can be reloaded without removing it. The Tikka has the smoothest actions in the business, bettered by none - even smoother than the Sako. Triggers & barrels are the same. The Sako has the key lock on the bolt (I never use mine). The Tikka T3 makes an excellent lightweight cheap mountain rifle - to get the same from the Sako you have to buy the Finnlight which is more expensive They are both excellent rifles and I guess its down to personal preference - Buy whichever fits and feels the best to you. The above comparisons apply to the Tikka T3 versus the Sako 75. | |||
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