My mod 70 classic 300 RUM will push an empty case about 1/4" before the case comes out of the magazine well. Most of the time it will come under the extractor but sometimes it will miss the extractor and just be pushed into the chamber.

A loaded round will move about an inch before the rim comes up under the extractor.

Hey RMiller, Thank you for the scoop on that Controlled Feed M70. The last M70s I had were actual pre-64s in the early 1970s and I "think" they had full control of the cartridges in a fairly short distance. But, that has been too long ago for my memory to rely on it.

The real old 22Hornet M43 Winchesters I had seemed to control the cartridge as soon as the Bolt bumped the cartridge forward just a bit. They use a Single Stack removeable magazine which was fairly easy to adjust. And if one got totally goofed up, you could find them at the GunShows with just a bit of effort. These had to be magazine fed, single feeding would not work at all cause the Extractor would not "Snap Over" the rim, or at least I never pushed on one hard enough to do it.

Anyone have some first hand experience shooting/loading for a Kimber M84-Montana? I'm currently working with one and it seems to like R-15 and 150 and 165 gr. Hornady Flat Base Interlocks with most going into less than an inch at 100 yds. It doesn't seem to care for IMR 4064. IMR4895 works very well at around 2450 but as velocity increases, so do the group sizes.

I'm impressed with how that stock/pad combination dampens recoil on such a light rifle.

WN

Mine is in 243 Win. It's very accurate with many two shot groups at 200 yds almost touching. There has been some wandering of about an inch at that range for the first shot from a cold, clean barrel. To make it clear it's the two shot group that wanders a little. This may be due to the way I hold it or some outside influence from week to week.



I can see the bullets kick up dust at long range. This may be due to the high comb. The only bullet I am shooting now is the 58 gr VMax.



What mounts are you using? I switched to Warnes Weaver style bases on two of my 84M Classics as I don't like the opposing screw Redfield design mount bases that Kimber sells.

S99

Mounts and rings are Leupold. Scope is a 1.75-6X VXIII.

WN

I just ordered an 84M Classic in 7-08, anyone have any experience with one of these? I'm worried about it having too much free bore and not being able to get cases with the bullet just off the rifling into the magazine. Thanks.

This is what happens in my 84M Montana 243 Win.

2. No, The rim will not go under the extractor with a steady forward force. If I pull back when it jams then the rim will go under the extractor.

3. It will not come out of the magazine due to the jam when an empty case is used. If the bolt is backed off then the distance is about 1.5".

3a. No, It takes about 1.5" for the jam to start with an empty case.

I did not to this test with my 260 or 7-08 but I don't think they will feed empty brass either.

WM's cartridge must be a 308.

Mike,

I got a new 84M Classic in 7mm-08 last fall. It's shooting quite well now after I got the dang factory rear base screws tight. Those bases are gone now in favor of Warne's Weaver type.

The magazine is 2.8" long and that's it. If a bullet will not reach the lands then you have to make do or load single shot. I have no problem with this as it shoots just fine with various bullets including the 120 gr Nosler BT which is what I am using now. Keep in mind that bullets like some of the Hornady Spire Points carry their diameter well forward on the bullet. I see it as a non problem.

I have been wondering, how long is the magazine box? Is it 2.8" like a Remington or is it 3" like an Ulta Light Arms?

Aaron

Hey WN, I hear a lot of good things about the new Kimbers. Just keep forgetting to pick one up when I'm in the GunShops. Always seem to get distracted.

If you and anyone else cares to respond to these questions, I'd appreciate it.

1. What cartridge is yours chambered for?

2. With a single spent case in the magazine, will it feed it without hanging?

3. How far do you have to move the bolt forward before the cartridge is out of the magazine?

3a. If you move the bolt 1" forward from it's rearmost position and pull it back, does it have control of the cartridge at that time?

Thanks.

Hot Core,

I'm probably a bad person to define CRF. I will state some things I like/dislike about each:

I dislike the fact that IF I'm going forward with the bolt of a PF, and for some reason I decide in mid-stroke to re-cycle the action, the first cartridge would likely continue in to the chamber, with the next cartidge coming right up it's a**. This could be really bad if a sharp spitzer hits the primer.

I dislike the fact that, with a true CRF, IF a cartidge gets into the chamber ahead of the bolt, you can't close the bolt on the round (true Mausers can).

Other than that, it's mostly personal preferrence...

The reason I said that you might need to send one to the gun doctor is that most I've seen feed "rough." They might bind, might not eject empties reliably, etc. These have been experiences with the Kimbers I've operated. They tend to have pretty "rough" actions (not silky-smooth when you work the bolt back and forth).

Trademark Texan,

I know that the Kimber CRF will snap over a round in the chamber as well as the M/70 CRF and the new M/70 CRPF. I think the Ruger CRF will also, but it has been a while since I've worked on one of them.

There are some CRF's that my drop the round when you change direction of the bolt due to the necked down area of the cartridge below which would allow the cartridge you are feeding to drop down below the extractor hook.

Headache

Hey Trademark Texan, Thank you. I understand what you are saying and I agree that each style has positive and negative points.

I had one Kimber 22LR back when they came out "the first time" and it was quite a "pretty" rifle. Beautiful Walnut and the Blueing looked like you could reach into it. Nearly drove me crazy worrying that an errant drop of sweat/DEET would get onto the Blue steel and mar it. Plus, the swamps and woods I hunt aren't real gentle on Wood stocks. Ended up trading it off.

I've found a good many "new" rifles seem to exhibit that roughness when cycling the bolt you mention.

Thanks again.

---

How `bout it guys? Any other Controlled Feed fans interested in educating me on my above questions?

I don't understand why the test is being done with empty cases?

I have a pre-64 M70 in 300 H&H that was a push feed! The bolt a serial number match but who knows if the extractor is orginal? I ground some off of the extractor and it feeds crf now.