All,

I'm thinking about a second bolt action rifle, a custom left-handed rifle in 7 x 57mm with qualities listed below, and would be grateful for advice and comment on what's missing. I travel to hunt and will insist on a take down rifle. So left hand bolt, take down:

--unless someone has figured out a reliable system of take down to use a double square bridge Mauser action, who makes the best take down action?

--walnut stock with skeleton butt plate. I like a longer stock, 14-1/4"

-- Leupold scope. Will the Vari-X III 1.75-6 give proper eye relief with the length of scope and the size of likely actions as well as longer than usual stock?

-- aperture sight on the cocking piece.

-- iron sights set for 175 grain head zeroed dead on at 100 yards.

-- barrel length of either 20 or 22 inches. Not sure what rate of twist would be, but goal is to stabilize 140gr through 175gr heads.

-- sling swivel on the barrel.

-- front sight from Recknagel, perhaps with the flip over close or night sight.

-- Stock design from Rigby; cannot recall if their .275 had a full or half pistol grip.

Grateful for views. Note: I do reload and have a Ruger No. 1 in 7x57. The .375H&H I had made is a Dakota left hand bolt action married to a Lilja barrel and is quite reliable.

Views?

Regards, Tim

You are probably looking for about a 1:9 twist rate for your barrel.

If it was my gun, and I was intending to use it in the field (as opposed to creating a show-piece), I would insist on some sort of a recoil pad (rubber or leather). Less so for the recoil reduction, more because a wooden/metal stock termination will be noisy in the field, and may cause the gun to slip when it is least needed (e.g. set aside leaning against a tree).

If you want the best in take-downs, most of the really good stuff is made in Europe. Check out how companies like Johannsen (http://www.johannsen-jagd.de/johannsentakedown.html), Hartmann und Weiss or Ritterbusch (http://www.ritterbusch-rifles.com/?lang=en) interpret the take-down theme.

If it was my gun, I'd make sure I got a reamer cut to my specifications. I can't tell you how frustrating it is to have thought of "everything", only to find out that whatever reamer your smith happened to use had a freebore so long you could not possibly reach the lands with the bullets seated to fit your magazine (or even in the neck!). It is not easy (or downright impossible?) to see on the reamer how long a freebore it will cut, and if the smith has not used the reamer for X months, he may not know. In the future, this is one detail I'll make sure I stay on top of.

I'd use a top level barrel maker like Krieger to supply the tube - just because I happen to like cut rifled barrels.

There are usually 2 zillion opinions on what is important in projects like this. I'm sure more than a few will be presented here, and don't expect them all to agree...

- mike

quote:

Leupold scope. Will the Vari-X III 1.75-6 give proper eye relief with the length of scope and the size of likely actions as well as longer than usual stock?

i honestly belive that if people look at what they need vs. what gun writes tell them they need then this would be the top selling scope for leupold.

The first question is what is your budget for this project?

Second question is time frame-when do you want to start and what is the latest acceptable completion date?

I think Duane Weibe is the best at making take-down rifles. Others may be just as good, or even better. But I know of very few people who make take-downs, so my opinion is based on limited information.

Personally, I would want more scope than the 1.75-6. But then I used to shoot 24x and 36x offhand all the time. I would go with either a Leupold 2.5-8 or Swarovski 3-10x42. These will give more magnification for the hunting field, and at th esame time be in a size that is proportional to the finished arm.

I would go with a 9" twist and 24" barrel. Based on the limited info we have on your future stock, but with what little I see the 20" tube would be a poor choice, and even the 22" would likely be too short. I have one set up similar to the one you describe, but in a Teutonic/American hybrid style and went with a 60cm (23 5/8") barrel.

If you go with a shorter tube, the rifle will have poor balance. I am not talking about where it would steady on a fulcrum, but rather artistic balance. If this is ignored, the end result will greatly suffer.

Tim,

A very inspiring project.

"..who makes the best take down action?.." you asked.

While In Reno I had a look at some takedowns(im an enthusiast of them also).
I found the thread on a premier priced HartmannWeiss built rifle too slopy for my liking. The Granite Mountain Mauser was no better.
I was most impressed with Ralf Martinis t/d work. They were much tighter than the others, and the quality of acme thread was impeccable. As good as his work is,he was prepared to make the fit even better if desired(I would rather have a new rifle with a slightly tight fitting thread). The closer the fit the better in the long run.

When I think of m98 7x57, I think of, trim efficient weight saving design formulas and understated features.

The following will vary a bit from your concept.But its the way I would most likely do it. It is not my intention to sway you.


BARREL LENGTH: When I hold someone elses rifle, I can like it even though it may have anything from a 21-25" tube. When it comes to choosing a length for my rifle, for some reason, its harder to decide.
Below is a doctored photo of a Westly Richards to show how I might prefer a t/d rig to look like. I dont know the lengths of either barrel.
Id probably go for about 22 - 22.5" forward of the receiver ring.
I like plain round barrels with only the essential features integraly done. that means octagons and full length ribs are out.
I dont like it when they dovetail into a barrel to fit a screwblock. I would have it integral.

SCOPE: I find it hard to pass on a 2.5-8x leupold. Put it on the imaginary plain barreled t/d rifle below, and if I was a cat, Id be purring.

OPEN SIGHTS: The way Im thinking these days, I would have a mauser action with Brno dovetails (19mm)& Burgess type QDrings. The apeture rear sight would be small,I would have it built in the the rear bridge so that it pops up like a 1960s' Brno, add to that a spring tensioned foresight blade(adjustable by small grubscrew) housed in an integral foresight block.

STOCK: as much as I like awell executed shadowline cheekpce,I would most likely Not have a cheekpiece.



I like very much this trim integral swivel base HERE.

PeeP sight not exactly,but along the lines of THIS

quote:

Originally posted by mho:

I'd use a top level barrel maker like Krieger to supply the tube - just because I happen to like cut rifled barrels.

I agree with all Mike said (especialy the butt pad which will also help to protect the butt from cracking should the sling ever fail).

Cut rifle barrels are addictive. As an insurance I would suggest that you order the blank 2" longer than you want so that you can be absolutely surethat the unlapped portion is cut off.

I speak from experience - my Border is stunningly accurate but fouls 2" from the muzzle.........

Here's the way I would do it:

Call Mike Roden at Granite Mountain and tell him you want a left-hand GMA action with Acme barrel threads.

Have Duane Wiebe or Ralf Martini build the rifle. There's really no one else in this hemisphere to even consider.

I've had Ralf and Duane both do a fair amount of work for me and have found their work to be first rate. They know what they are doing when it comes to takedown rifles.

Things to consider:

The GMA action is HEAVY. The takedown option will add some additional weight. I think you might want at least a 23" barrel to balance some of that weight.

You might tell Duane or Ralf to put the GMA action on a serious weight reduction program. Either guy can take some weight off the action. I've seen a GMA that Ralf has really slimmed down and it's gorgeous. This will add costs to the project though.

To do it right, we're talking about about a seriously expensive rifle. Be prepared to spend in excess of $12,000 by the time you're finished with the project.

Post your query, or a link to this thread, on the Gunsmithing forum and you'll get more feedback.

I didn't think about Ralph's work. i forgot he showed me a take down rifle. But mostly we were talking about making 1/2 octagon/1/2round/full length rib barrels. He is the FIRST gunmaker whom I have asked how he does this who actually helped me. Not only did he answer my questions, he above and beyond what I was asking and repeatedly told me to call him if I started on one and had trouble or needed pointers. NO ONE has ever helped me with figuring out the best way to do this.

Ralph's work is top notch and I would be proud to own one of hie rifles.