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Just wondering if anyone else has had trouble with the quality of the T3? I have had to send three T3 back to the dealer one for a stock problem finish coming off the second one the barrel rusting even with quality oil the third safety inoppertative bolt and plunger miss lined. All were brand new rifles one 3006 Hunter two 300 Wsm of which one was a Hunter the other stainless steel and a Lam stock. I am waiting for my 4th to arrive. Old Timer May you always be where God can bless you | ||
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I have no personal experience but there were comments on this forum, I think, that quality has dropped since Beretta became involved.. | |||
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one of us |
Most reports on the t-3 having been "glowing" wonderful. BUT I have to admit that rust has showed up on a few posts. A couple buddies I hunt deer with over here in Medford showed up with t-3's last year. Both stainless. By the end of hunting season both triggers were pretty rusty for some reason. No other problems showed up on theirs. I have a buddy with an early tikka that really rusted bad on a bear hunt in AK close to the ocean--not sure what he did to the gun to protect it. (knowing this buddy probably nothing). I have a blued whitetail tikka that has not showed rust but I haven't pushed it on an "overnight" hunt. I wished I hadn't heard your trouble as the t-3 is on my list of a gun to get someday--possibly in the new 325 wsm. | |||
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I have two stainless and one blued T_3's. All shoot factory ammo or handloads under one inch. The stainless have been in snow and rain with no evidence of rust. | |||
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I have a stainless T3 Laminate in 338 WM. It is a great rifle, good trigger, very accurate, and nice and light. The only thing that I did was to have a muzle break installed and the rather rough bead blast finish reblasted with a finer finish. I didn't particularly have a problem with the factory finish but the smith who installed the break couldn't match it for the break so he reblasted the whole thing. I'm very pleased with it. | |||
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Kraky- Almost any hunt near the ocean up here will tear up a blued gun in a hurry. About the only way to protect blued steel from salt spray is a couple coats of krylon paint. The salt spray is the worst, even on inland hunts where you can experience 7-10 days of straight rain can really be hard on blued guns too. | |||
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Kraky, Good to hear from you, I have been pleased with the smoothness of the t3 but have had nothing but trouble with the quality. This last one almost distroyed my confidence in the T3 line If number four goes bad I guess Tikka and I will have to part. Old Timer May you always be where God can bless you | |||
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I own a T3 Lite blued in 308 and I have had absolutely no problems with it at all. It has had over 100 rounds through it without a single problem and has been through one hunting season. It regularly shoots 0.5MOA. I have handled as many as 10 other T3s and all appeared to be good quality with exceptional fit and finish for the price. They have the smoothest actions in any gun less than $500. The only smoother bolt I have ever felt was a Sako 75. You sent a rifle back to the dealer because it rusted? Not to be critical or offensive, but thats like sending a knife back to a dealer because it became dull. | |||
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One of Us |
You are not offensive, If you think when you buy a new gun it should rust after you have oiled it and not hunted withit before you take it out to hunt in the field you just just a few trip to the range and after ward the rifle is carefully cleaned. You do not have the same standards that I have. I come from the school of thought that when I buy something new I expect it to be right. That applies to my firearms, and if they are not they are going back. God help me if I start excepting the mediocre. Old Timer May you always be where God can bless you | |||
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One of Us |
Hmm...I'll agree with you. Nothing should rust with just that kind of use. Was it blued or stainless? Was the blueing wearing off? How do you store your guns? How long did it sit before it rusted and how big were the rust spots? What oil did you use? I personally like Breakfree CLP. I use it to lube almost all parts of all my guns. With my blued T3 I wipe on a thin layer after hunting or after cleaning and I've never had rust issues. I even store it in a soft gun case, not the best way to prevent rust... On the T3 that you had a stock problem with, I assume it was the hunter model. How thick was the finish and what was the flaking like? I've handled the laminated and synthetic ones, but havent seen a hunter yet. It sucks that you've had three bad ones. I've had very good experiences with mine. Sorry for asking so many questions, I just want a better understanding of what was wrong. | |||
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one of us |
I have to say one thing about my T3 stainless .270. I mounted a brand new Burris 3-9X scope on it, which was optically centered when I removed it from the box. I mounted the scope with the supplied rings, and when I went to bore sight it, it was dead on at 100 yards according to the bore sighter. That scope rail must be perfectly done to get that close to being aligned to the bore. I haven't shot it yet, but even looking through the bore it looks perfectly on. I thought that was a little amazing. Bob | |||
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Ive had no trouble with my T3 lite in 300 win mag! Its a great gun and accuracy is around half an inch with the right bullet if i do my part and i let the barrel cool down in between shots! Regards | |||
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My Whitetail Hunter, in SS/Laminate, has had zero problems, with rust(yes stainless can rust), or finish, and I hunt in Wisconsin weather, too. My T-3 Lite(blued/syn), has had zero problems, with rust, an obviously, the synthetic stock will not have finish issues. Both are well maintained, but do spend long periods, in a soft tactical case. Both are tack drivers. About the only time I have ever had rust issues on any of my firearms, I could attribute that to my handling, or poor maintenance effort. I do not mean to suggest that "Old TImers" issues are due to poor maintenace, just that rust happens when my maintenance efforts are deferred, or incomplete. I always wipe down guns after handling, since many moons ago I had rust on my new Remington 1100, that could be attributed to a 13 year old fondling his new shotgun, and not wiping the finger prints off, with an oil rag. With rust on a trigger, I wonder... Squeeze Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. Benjamin Franklin, Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759 | |||
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One of Us |
The rifle in question was a blued hunter T3 , no the blueing was not rubbing off it would have patches of rust on both the under neath as well as the top of the barrel. I am using FP10 metal treatment and I wiped it down after each time I would handle it, It was stored in a rack in a temp controled room along with Brownings and savages etc. I believe the blueing was either to thin or not applied properly ??? I have been talking to other who have had the same problem, but just decided the rifle was just a beater rifle anyway. I was thinking better of my T3 it was to be my main deer rifle. The problem I had with the finish was The first time I hunted with it it was drizzeling a little and I was trying to be protective and would wipe the rain off the stock and every time I would do this the clear coat or what ever you call it would peal off in pieces, until all the top and alot of the side of the stock was pealed off to a dull bare finish. The company said it was more than likely the finish coat did not adhear to the finish ?? I said ok, they then sent me a new rifle. This is the first time it has been a mechanical problem on this stainless Lam stock t3, The safety will not lock the bolt, the pin is not lined up with the hole in the bolt and therefor no solid safety.Iam thinking about just getting my money back and telling tikka what I think about their product, but I will try one time more this will be the fourth but this is it. thanks for the interest. Old Timer May you always be where God can bless you | |||
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Wow. It's strange how some of us just get screwed by lots of bad luck. I hope you have good experiences with your 4th because I believe Tikka really does turn out great products. As far as the finish on your second Hunter, I am a woodworker and have spent a couple years working at a shop thats open to public use. Sometimes if wood isn't handled correctly or if conditions like humidity, curing time for the last coat, and surface prep aren't right then the coats above will flake off. Maybe something went wrong in their process. Did you have any rust issues with the second Hunter? | |||
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One of Us |
My dad has a t3 blued in a 300 wsm and he's had no problems. I'd be a little concerned about my dealer letting leave and return 3 times unhappy. It hard to find three people who have had a problem. Maybe I'm suspicious but I'd shop somewhere else. Just a thought. | |||
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One of Us |
Fumbler,bc300winguy, I have been calleed to pick up my 4th at the dealer Scheels and was informed that they made sure it works find with a good working safety. When I arived my sales person un wraped my new stainless Laminate and it looked really good only one problem the new stock was cracked down the side of the front end this was discovered by the sales person, so they allow me to switch stocks and put on my old Laminate which is what I wanted in the first place. But there you have it so much for Tikka's quality control 4 out of 4 2 stock problems 1 blueing 1 safety. On a good note my new rifle seems to be a good shooter. I think all this says two things: 1) Tikka's quality control needs looking into. 2) There is a great dealer in Scheels they have taken good care of me and made sure I was happy with my rifle, even to the point of giving me 2 new rifles, on the first stock problem Beretta replaced the whole rifle. Old Timer May you always be where God can bless you | |||
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One of Us |
Wow...that's all I have to say. wow. 4 Tikkas in a row with some kind of problem. 4 rifles of any model in a row is just unheard of. | |||
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