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Re: Im 15 years old looking for a first deer rifle
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Use what you got for a scope, and save up for something nice down the road, just bought the wife a 700 Remington BDL in a 270 with a Nikon Monarch 4x12 with Leuopold one piece base, with a trigger pull of 3 lbs, won't suggest to go any lower for safety reason, barrel sited at 25yrds. and shot 3 at the target, moved back at 100yds within a box of factory Remington 130gr core lokt pointed soft points she had a group of three in a 1' circle. She hunted with a Remington 243 with 4x16.5 Simmons for about 7 years, this year the scope is not holding a group, have to send it in.You have a nice set up, that Savage Accutrigger is a very nice gun. Take care of it and it will last a lifetime. Let us know about the dirt dances it does.
 
Posts: 44 | Location: wis | Registered: 14 April 2004Reply With Quote
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I would hope that muzzle break is removable. I'd hate to see someone have to hunt with earplugs muffs one of your sences.

Terry
 
Posts: 6315 | Location: Mississippi | Registered: 18 May 2002Reply With Quote
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I'm not a fan of MB, but if your rifle has one, so be it. You will not be able to get a decent scope for $100. Check on e-bay often for a used Nikon if you want or a Leup. which I prefer. You can find a Leup. VXII for araound $150 & it will beat your Simmons hands down. @" high @ 100 will get you on @ 250 & about 3" low @ 300. Now time to practice!
 
Posts: 7752 | Location: kalif.,usa | Registered: 08 March 2001Reply With Quote
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First you don't need a MAG to kill a white tail. Try looking at a 280 or a 7MM-08 with a 24 in. barrel. they will take animals up to elk size game with the right bullet. I love mine. Look at the new rem. CDL 700 they are very nice.
 
Posts: 1137 | Location: SouthCarolina | Registered: 07 July 2004Reply With Quote
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i've already got the rifle on order cant change it now. besides im very excited about this rifle.
 
Posts: 325 | Location: Cordele, GA | Registered: 24 September 2004Reply With Quote
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good for you! take a look at the weaver k6 or k4. around your price range and nice glass for the coin. they are not variables but you will be very surprised how little you use the variable. your using your binocs for spotting i hope
the 6x will afford plenty of power for long range and offers a good field of view at shorter ranges. it is simlple, light and rugged.....
woofer
 
Posts: 741 | Location: vermont. thanks for coming, now go home! | Registered: 05 February 2002Reply With Quote
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Quote:



Atkinson wrote:

I'd pick the 30-06, that mundane old caliber will kill anything that walks, talks, breaths or crawls and the more I use it them more I'm convinced it is the best caliber in the world..It just does it all...



I went through all the calibers at one time or another and ended up with what I started with, the great Spingfield 30-06...





Ray- You sound like Finn Aagaard the last few years he was alive. He was down to his M70-375(re-barreled) and a 30.06 he was using to experiment with loads. He finally decided that the 220 Partition in the .06 was the ultimate N.American round. It was a great article.. going to miss him- smart dude!!



CritterKiller- Congrats on the 270WSM- one very flat shootin sucker!! ought to be the ultimate bean field shooter! Save those nickels and get your Nikon scope and a Nikon rangefinder to go with it.



When you're breaking in your rifle during zeroing it in just push a dry patch down the barrel after each 3 shot group. Then a good cleaning after your done for the day.

As mentioned only from the rear with the bolt removed!

If you don't have a place to zero at 200yds. Just sight in 2" high at 100yds. As flat as your 270WSM is your going to be good to 400yds.

Definitely save your brass and start saving up for a RCBS RockChucker press and some dies. After all- that is what this website is all about



The only thing - I wish you had gone with the 300WSM because there are so many!! more bullets to select from.. And there's nothin like a 180grn .30cal bullet!!
 
Posts: 474 | Registered: 18 August 2002Reply With Quote
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y must i clean from the rear? because it pushes the bad stuff outta the barrel and not in the action? and i kinda planned not to start reloading for now im gonna go with some factory loads
 
Posts: 325 | Location: Cordele, GA | Registered: 24 September 2004Reply With Quote
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CK wrote:

Why must I clean from the rear? Because it pushes all the bad stuff outta the barrel and not in the action?

And I kinda planned not to start reloading for now I'm gonna go with some factory loads





Yeap- don't push the crud back into the receiver...

The one bad thing about fancy rounds like the new WSMs- there isn't any cheap plinkin ammo.

The one advantage of 30.06, .308 & .223 is all the ball military surplus ammo you can pick up for CHEAP!

Find someone close by who reloads and pick up the dies for your 270WSM to fit their reloading press. It would be a great experience having them teach you how to reload.

Offer to buy them some powder and caps for whatever they normally reload as payment for teaching you and helping you reload your brass.

For now, I would reload with the Nosler 140grn Accubond bullets. They are the best value in a premium hunting bullet with the accuracy of the BallisticTips. They will probably turn out to be your bullet of choice anyway.

They usually run about .10� a piece cheaper than the Nosler Partitions (which are my favorite hunting bullet)

For shooting paper and everything else use the Nosler 140grn. BallisticTip. They would also be perfect for varmint hunting! And they should group exactly the same as the Accubonds.
 
Posts: 474 | Registered: 18 August 2002Reply With Quote
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y must i clean from the rear? because it pushes the bad stuff outta the barrel and not in the action? and i kinda planned not to start reloading for now im gonna go with some factory loads




You should clean from the rear of the rifle in order to protect the critical muzzle crown. Any irregularities in this area will drastically damage accuracy. To protect the accuracy of you new rifle you should get a quality one piece cleaning rod and a bore guide. Many rifles are damaged by the joints in a cheap cleaning rod being drug over the muzzle. Even a soft aluminum rod will damage your rifle's barrel.
Most of us, as we clean our rifles, push the brush back and forth in the bore. As you mentioned that can leave "gunk" in the action. The bore guide is inserted into the action in place of the bolt. The cleaning rod and wet patch are inserted through the hollow tube of the bore guide, thus preventing contamination of the action. After the bore is cleaned then mop out the chamber area.
(many of the purists insist that the patch and brush only travel in one direction in the bore, rear to front. This may contribute some to bench rest accuracy, where matches are won or lost on a few 1/1000's of an inch. But in my opinion is not needed on a hunting rifle. Just be sure to push the brush all the way out the muzzle before pulling it back to the rear.)

MidwayUSA has been supplying shooters, hunters, and reloaders with quality products at good prices for longer than I remember. Here is a link to their page for cleaning supplies and a description of the proper bore guide in an inexpensive model to fit your short action Savage.

http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteabrowse/1/658/655***

MTM Bore Guide 25 to 378 Caliber Short Action
Product #: 360304
Status: Available
Our Price: $6.95
 
Posts: 273 | Location: West Central Idaho | Registered: 15 December 2002Reply With Quote
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i have a universal 22 through 7mm cleaning kit but its cheap and has a 3 piece rod. will that work for now? also if u ppl know anybody or u yourself shoot a 270.wsm plz give me ur best factory load?
 
Posts: 325 | Location: Cordele, GA | Registered: 24 September 2004Reply With Quote
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by that i mean gimme wut the rifle shoots best dont accually send my ammo. (thinks o wait y am i typing this they knew wut i was saying the first time.)
 
Posts: 325 | Location: Cordele, GA | Registered: 24 September 2004Reply With Quote
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Picture of CaptJack
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CK- not to pick on you-
but most of us are kinda old farts and don't really communicate in short abbreviated text messaging/spelling.
It would be easier for us to understand you if you would at least spell out the words. We'll forgive you if you don't capitalize when you need to.

If you use the cheap 3-piece aluminum cleaning rod try to be sure and go as straight as possible. Pick up a good 1-piece fiberglass cleaning rod as soon as you can.
BTW- I carry a 7-piece aluminum cleaning rod in my hunting pack with some patches. If I ever get anything in the bore when I'm out hunting I have something to clean it with- it's not my good one piece fiberglass rod but I didn't have to go all the way back to the truck to clean the crud out of the barrel.
BTW- It's the same rod I carried in Vietnam.
 
Posts: 474 | Registered: 18 August 2002Reply With Quote
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OK i just play alot of games online and am in chat rooms of yahoo regularly, and you learn to be quick with your typin otherwise u get killed/cussed out for not paying attention. i will be better at spellin my words out. but i been typin this way for years hard to break old habits. and yes no short words means i gotta give more thought and take more time so no capitalization. GO GEORGE BUSH AS PREDIDENT! (he won you know)
 
Posts: 325 | Location: Cordele, GA | Registered: 24 September 2004Reply With Quote
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For a reasonably priced scope, I'd go with Sightron. I got an SI 3-9x40 for $109 from MidwayUSA on sale. They go for around $150 normally. I am very impressed with this scope. You also might want to check out Weaver scopes, they're very good for the price too. Unless you buy used, those are really the only companies that offer decent scopes for under $200. You can always buy a used scope, especially if you can find a Leupold, since they've got such a good warranty.

One bit of advice I'd add for you, and that's to practice with your new rifle A LOT. Also, don't get too enamored with long range shooting, even though you've got a really flat shooter in that .270 WSM, shots past 300 yards are very tough to make, unless you've practiced at that range. I've taken upwards of 20 whitetails, and only ever shot one at over 200 yards.
 
Posts: 641 | Location: SW Pennsylvania, USA | Registered: 10 October 2003Reply With Quote
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If you don't have a bore guide, take a fired case and drill out the primer pocket enough so your cleaning rod will fit thru it. Put that over your cleaning rod when you clean and use it as a bore guide.
 
Posts: 2037 | Location: frametown west virginia usa | Registered: 14 October 2001Reply With Quote
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i found 2 choices of scopes a 3-9x40 nikon rifleman or a leupold 2-7x33? like both scope both are equal price $200 but i think i will do best with the 3-9 for this flat shooter im gettin. by the way the rifle arives tommorow but i dont have anywhere to shoot yet but the range report will be posted for all you interested. im not lookin for phenominal accuracy but i do expect at least 1''moa. now for that matter how do i increase accuracy? any technics u guys/girls can offer to a youngin like me?
 
Posts: 325 | Location: Cordele, GA | Registered: 24 September 2004Reply With Quote
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first off good luck with your new rifle.

reloading is probably the most sure fire way to get more accuracy.

I have been reloading for about a year now. mostly .45auto but just started with 30-06 a few months back. and the accuracy diffrence between hand load and factory is amazing in my rifle.

before you reload you will need a few things.

a: several hundred dollars to aquire all the equipment. you can buy used or new, but a decent press, dies, scale, etc etc will add up. dont worry in the long run you will save money.... unless you get like other people and add more then you need. (hey look, I got this old .XXX die set cheap... now I need a rifle to go along with it.") and plan on buying several reloading books... when you compare data from one to the other you will see why.

b: a designated area to reload. I bought a cheap used computer desk (prefab particleboard type) that sits in a corner in my bedroom. nothing but firearms stuff hits that table, this keeps the distractions down when reloading and prevents problems. yes you can use a temporary setup that you breakdown after you are done but it will get tedious after a while.

c: patients. getting it right takes some time. loads you think will work won't and others will that shouldn't. this can frustrate the best of us but the payoffs are worth it. (my 30-06 shot 1.5-2" @100yrds with factory, I found a load with similar bullets that shot a .6" and I havent even got to diffrent weight bullets yet.) you will also need to do things by the book. shortcuts before you really know what you are doing can be deadly. I am sure there are plenty of people here that can relate a story about when they rushed and things went "not so good" for them. also every rifle is diffrent. so you need to fine the reload that you rifle "likes" this can take alot of time.

d: leave the ego at the door. you WILL screw up. if you even suspect that it is possible that you screwed up even minorly, stop and check. more often then not it will be fine but the one time might save your gun and yourself.

e: a good place for help and info. this can be you local shop, a friend that does this or the reloading forums here.

if you do choose to reload dont be affraid to ask questions. and run searches in the reloading forum for anything you can think of. its amazing all the little tips you can come up with from this place.
 
Posts: 201 | Location: NJ, USA | Registered: 22 August 2003Reply With Quote
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